I just repacked the stuffing box on my O'Day 32' CC with GFO. I wasn't sure which size, 3/16" or 1/4", so I ordered both, as the boat is about 2 hours away, and I had only one day to drive there, clean out the old packing and clean up the fitting, and repack. She's on the hard now, scheduled to be put over the side later this week. I compared the old flax packing with both the 3/16 and 1/4, and it was a close call, but the 3/16 seemed like the right one. After installing 3 very carefully-cut rings, I test fitted the adjusting cap, but hand tightening gently (yes, I read the instructions), the adjuster went so far on that there were very few threads left to use the locknut, let alone adjust after the 2-3 hour break-in run. I added two more rings, and it seemed just about right. Do you guys think this will be ok, or should I redo using the 1/4"?
Repacking stuffing box O'Day 32 with GFO
- Thread starter jknappsax
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I have found that it is nearly impossible to measure the size of the old flax because it is in such poor shape after being ripped out of the packing nut.
The most accurate way to measure for the correct flax size is to use a vernier caliper. Measure the outside diameter of the shaft and the inside diameter of the packing nut. Subtract the two measurements and divide by two and you will have the flax size to use.
If you don't have a vernier caliper, using an adjustable wrench, gently adjust the wrench so that it fits snugly on the shaft. Remove the wrench and measure across the flats of the wrench. This will be your shaft diameter.
Do the same across the outside of the threaded section of the stuffing box where the packing nut threads. Measure across the flats of the wrench again. This will be the inside dimension of the packing nut except that you need to subtract about 1/16" to 3/32" for the depth of the threads.
Subtract the diameter of the shaft and divide by two and you will have the flax width that you need.
You should be able to slip the rings of flax into the packing nut without a huge amount of effort. The rings should fit snugly, but not be overly tight.
Prior to inserting the new rings of packing flax, measure the depth of the packing nut. Be sure that you have removed all of the old rings. Allow 1/4" - 3/8" of threading onto the stuffing box and then you can determine how many rings of flax you need to insert to fil the remaining space. You should have a minimum of three rings, but you could have several more depending upon the size of your stuffing box.
The most accurate way to measure for the correct flax size is to use a vernier caliper. Measure the outside diameter of the shaft and the inside diameter of the packing nut. Subtract the two measurements and divide by two and you will have the flax size to use.
If you don't have a vernier caliper, using an adjustable wrench, gently adjust the wrench so that it fits snugly on the shaft. Remove the wrench and measure across the flats of the wrench. This will be your shaft diameter.
Do the same across the outside of the threaded section of the stuffing box where the packing nut threads. Measure across the flats of the wrench again. This will be the inside dimension of the packing nut except that you need to subtract about 1/16" to 3/32" for the depth of the threads.
Subtract the diameter of the shaft and divide by two and you will have the flax width that you need.
You should be able to slip the rings of flax into the packing nut without a huge amount of effort. The rings should fit snugly, but not be overly tight.
Prior to inserting the new rings of packing flax, measure the depth of the packing nut. Be sure that you have removed all of the old rings. Allow 1/4" - 3/8" of threading onto the stuffing box and then you can determine how many rings of flax you need to insert to fil the remaining space. You should have a minimum of three rings, but you could have several more depending upon the size of your stuffing box.
Thanks for the info, Rad. Considering we have the same model, I'm confident you know of what you speak. Thanks again.
Ask me anything about a 32 and I can honestly say I know, there isn't one stone that has not been turned over on Free Spirit and owning an oldie but goody maintaining it requires knowing all there is to know and some.
And I might add currently there's an issue with the prop that will be resolved
What year is yours?
And I might add currently there's an issue with the prop that will be resolved
What year is yours?
1974 O'Day 32' CC
The Atomic 4 that was original was replaced about 9 years ago with a Universal M4-30, and I believe that the shaft was replaced at that time. I don't know for sure if the prop is original or not, but it looks to be. What kind of prop issue is there? I'm glad you got in contact, as I'm sure that I may ask you an occasional question, if that's ok. I hate to bother Rudy Nickerson at D&R if I'm not buying anything or having any service done by him, though he has been quite gracious.
The Atomic 4 that was original was replaced about 9 years ago with a Universal M4-30, and I believe that the shaft was replaced at that time. I don't know for sure if the prop is original or not, but it looks to be. What kind of prop issue is there? I'm glad you got in contact, as I'm sure that I may ask you an occasional question, if that's ok. I hate to bother Rudy Nickerson at D&R if I'm not buying anything or having any service done by him, though he has been quite gracious.
Yes ask all the ? you need to ask and tell me what prop you have as your Universal M4-30 is simular to my Westerbeke 30 which is original. I removed the 2 blade and installeed a 3 blade Campbell sailor prop that never worked corrcetly and this season I had the 3 blade recut and its still not correct but tell me what you have and I'll put that in the reference section for the 32 and compare it with my 2 blade
I packed my stuffing box with the correct size GFO packing and found that it seemed to compact more than the regular packing. I had to add an additional two rings (for a total of five) in order to be able to adjust/tighten the box every year.
Two-bladed: how can I tell any particulars?
I'm still kind-of a noobie, so what should I look at when I go down to drop her in? I believe the blades turn counterclockwise in forward (because the prop walk in reverse is to port). I can measure the radius from center of the shaft to blade tip, but as to pitch, will the blade have this marked on the prop? Let me know, and I'll take a good look at it before she goes in.
I'm still kind-of a noobie, so what should I look at when I go down to drop her in? I believe the blades turn counterclockwise in forward (because the prop walk in reverse is to port). I can measure the radius from center of the shaft to blade tip, but as to pitch, will the blade have this marked on the prop? Let me know, and I'll take a good look at it before she goes in.
Thanks for your experience, John
It's good to know I have similar results to yours. Is your experience that the GFO is "virtually dripless", and once run in for 2-3 hours and adjusted, stays pretty consistent without rgular adjustment? Thanks.
It's good to know I have similar results to yours. Is your experience that the GFO is "virtually dripless", and once run in for 2-3 hours and adjusted, stays pretty consistent without rgular adjustment? Thanks.
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