I have a 1996 29.5 and have a few questions. (1) There is a little play in the helm I would like to eliminate and am unsure as to how to go about that. It looks like the pedestal needs to be removed. (2) I would like to remove the wheel this winter and wrap the wheel using a St. Mary's hitch or something similar. Is it as simple as using a cloth-covered wrench around the large nut on the center of the wheel? All advice is appreciated!
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wheel
To remove the wheel, just loosen the plastic nut on the hub. The wheel slides off of a keyed shaft. To tighten the cable, you have to access the steering qaudrant that is on top of the rudder shaft. There are two bolts there that will tighten the cable.
To remove the wheel, just loosen the plastic nut on the hub. The wheel slides off of a keyed shaft. To tighten the cable, you have to access the steering qaudrant that is on top of the rudder shaft. There are two bolts there that will tighten the cable.
You want something like this?
Rich, Exactly, cloth on the nut with a big cresent wench will work fine. Just make sure you don't drop the key. St Mary's hitch is fine. In this picture I used a rolling half hitch which gives the spiraled look. I'm at work now and when I get home I send you the directions for this. Jim S/V Java
Rich, Exactly, cloth on the nut with a big cresent wench will work fine. Just make sure you don't drop the key. St Mary's hitch is fine. In this picture I used a rolling half hitch which gives the spiraled look. I'm at work now and when I get home I send you the directions for this. Jim S/V Java
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Steve/Jim
Steve -- I suppose I should know, but where is the steering qaudrant that is on top of the rudder shaft and how do I gain access to it. Jim -- No picture accompanied your post. Thanks in advance for sending the directions.
Steve -- I suppose I should know, but where is the steering qaudrant that is on top of the rudder shaft and how do I gain access to it. Jim -- No picture accompanied your post. Thanks in advance for sending the directions.
29.5 steering
note-some 29.5's (like mine) have an edson chrome nut, not the plastic one-use a large open end wrench with tape on the jaws-you get to the quadrant by removing the 4? large screws in the deck behind the pedastal and lifting out the deck section-the cable should be washed and checked at least yearly for corrosion, wear or slack
note-some 29.5's (like mine) have an edson chrome nut, not the plastic one-use a large open end wrench with tape on the jaws-you get to the quadrant by removing the 4? large screws in the deck behind the pedastal and lifting out the deck section-the cable should be washed and checked at least yearly for corrosion, wear or slack
steering adjustments
The previous post is right on. You do not need to remove the pedestal- just remove the trapezoidal deck piece and you will see the cables. Look over for any damaged parts like fraying or split strands. If any - replace now and save having to try out your emergency tiller on a cold, dark, stormy night. Lubricate. You may also want to remove the top of the pedestal ( where the main sheet track is attached). Mine is held on with six (6) bolts. Under here you can visually inspect the wheel shaft, gear, and chain portion of the steering cables. Look for wear, lubricate, and reassemble. When tightening the cable, do so evenly and pay attention to the wheel position so that center wheel = centered rudder. Make sure the turning blocks are still tight in their brackets and adjusted so the cables lead fair to the quadrant. Don't forget to caulk the screws when replacing the deck piece. Good sailing Bill Murray S/V Good Faith 1995 h29.5 #175
The previous post is right on. You do not need to remove the pedestal- just remove the trapezoidal deck piece and you will see the cables. Look over for any damaged parts like fraying or split strands. If any - replace now and save having to try out your emergency tiller on a cold, dark, stormy night. Lubricate. You may also want to remove the top of the pedestal ( where the main sheet track is attached). Mine is held on with six (6) bolts. Under here you can visually inspect the wheel shaft, gear, and chain portion of the steering cables. Look for wear, lubricate, and reassemble. When tightening the cable, do so evenly and pay attention to the wheel position so that center wheel = centered rudder. Make sure the turning blocks are still tight in their brackets and adjusted so the cables lead fair to the quadrant. Don't forget to caulk the screws when replacing the deck piece. Good sailing Bill Murray S/V Good Faith 1995 h29.5 #175
Rich, I'm still looking
Well I've just about torn my office apart looking for the instructions for the brading on the wheel. I'll let you know when I find it. Try attached link for a look at my wheel. Jim
Well I've just about torn my office apart looking for the instructions for the brading on the wheel. I'll let you know when I find it. Try attached link for a look at my wheel. Jim
Finally found it!!
Rich and anyone else. look at this site: http://www.northnet.org/ropeworks/archive/ringbolt.html This is the ringbolt but I modified it by continuing to half hitch only in one direction. The important parts of starting and stopping this process is in 1,2,3 and 8,9,10,11. It makes for a very clean appearance. I also started at the top and went half way then went back and started in the other direction. I used a different way to make the turks head knot but achieves the same look. I used a double braid, and sewed across the braid, cut it, then wrapped around the wheel and sewed the ends to complete the wrap. The type of line I used was 3/16" (#6) solid braid nylon. This can be purchased in two 50ft rolls and used about 180ft of line for the H260 wheel. Jim S/V Java
Rich and anyone else. look at this site: http://www.northnet.org/ropeworks/archive/ringbolt.html This is the ringbolt but I modified it by continuing to half hitch only in one direction. The important parts of starting and stopping this process is in 1,2,3 and 8,9,10,11. It makes for a very clean appearance. I also started at the top and went half way then went back and started in the other direction. I used a different way to make the turks head knot but achieves the same look. I used a double braid, and sewed across the braid, cut it, then wrapped around the wheel and sewed the ends to complete the wrap. The type of line I used was 3/16" (#6) solid braid nylon. This can be purchased in two 50ft rolls and used about 180ft of line for the H260 wheel. Jim S/V Java
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