I have a Legend 35.5 and need to replace the plastic thru-hull fitting for my bilge pump outlet (above the waterline) due to a hellacious winter storm which scraped it off against the dock. Amazingly, that's the only damage I need to deal with. I'm very nervous about getting this done, at present I believe any significant bilge pump discharge will pull it loose and dump everything into the boat. I've poked and prodded and I believe the fitting is located behind the shower wall, I can't believe I actually have to remove the wall to get to it? Does anyone have any experience with this? I loosened the shower nozzle fittings to try and get a peek, but can't even get enough room under it to take a look, let alone attempt any work through this 2" hole, which has hoses hooked to it of course. After reading about cutting a hole for replacing the waste tank, I guess it doesn't surprise me. Maybe I'm better off cutting a hole, although it's not a flat surface? Removing the wall doesn't LOOK like it would be too difficult, but that's often a different story after you get into it. Any advice is appreciated!
Removing the shower wall???
- Thread starter LoriPetersen
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I've removed.....
... the shower liner years back when the vac break for the head, which is also located behind that wall, failed. Next time I have to go back there I'm cutting a 6" deck plate in. This will give access to the thru hull, head anti siphon and the pipes to the shower.
... the shower liner years back when the vac break for the head, which is also located behind that wall, failed. Next time I have to go back there I'm cutting a 6" deck plate in. This will give access to the thru hull, head anti siphon and the pipes to the shower.
I wonder
I know the ventilation hose from the holding tank is easily accessible behind the sliding Plexiglas panels over the head. I never thought about the bilge thru-hull. If it is below the shelf behind the sliding doors, I wonder if the shelf can come out to give you access. Or, if you can locate the exact position, cut an access hole in the shelf above the thru-hull instead of the shower liner behind the head. I'll try to take a look at mine today.
I know the ventilation hose from the holding tank is easily accessible behind the sliding Plexiglas panels over the head. I never thought about the bilge thru-hull. If it is below the shelf behind the sliding doors, I wonder if the shelf can come out to give you access. Or, if you can locate the exact position, cut an access hole in the shelf above the thru-hull instead of the shower liner behind the head. I'll try to take a look at mine today.
Ken
A couple of questions: On my model there are no sliding Plexiglas panels over the head. I do have two cabinets that have pull down doors over the sink and adjacent the the shower. There is nothing behind these cabinets except hull. Is this the location of your Plexiglas panels? The vent hose for the holding tank is located under the stbd aft locker in the cockpit and exits the hull just below the pump out on my model. I recently changed this entire vent system to 1" with PVC pipe. Also upgraded the holding tank to 30gal plastic tank. I do have a thru hull under the sink that is accessible in that cabinet, but this thru hull is the drain for the sink in the head.
A couple of questions: On my model there are no sliding Plexiglas panels over the head. I do have two cabinets that have pull down doors over the sink and adjacent the the shower. There is nothing behind these cabinets except hull. Is this the location of your Plexiglas panels? The vent hose for the holding tank is located under the stbd aft locker in the cockpit and exits the hull just below the pump out on my model. I recently changed this entire vent system to 1" with PVC pipe. Also upgraded the holding tank to 30gal plastic tank. I do have a thru hull under the sink that is accessible in that cabinet, but this thru hull is the drain for the sink in the head.
Must have been a pain to remove/re-install?
The head configuration of my boat is as Alan has described: no sliding panels. (Ken: your profile says you have a 33.5?). I am sure to within a couple of inches that it's in the molded section that contains the shower faucet controls, this is a nice curvey little "outcropping" that supports the shower nozzle and controls. Right behind that is where I think the outlet resides. Hence the "not flat" surface. The shelf just above it is a continuation of the wall, the only seam is vertically on the left and right, and the wall ends just under the headliner. There is another seam about a 6" above the seat, so it appears to be a panel that can be removed, I'm just wary about getting into it, and putting it back , plus the caulk bead is soooo small, I'll never be able to match it. So, I'm guessing it was a pain to remove/reinstall Alan?
The head configuration of my boat is as Alan has described: no sliding panels. (Ken: your profile says you have a 33.5?). I am sure to within a couple of inches that it's in the molded section that contains the shower faucet controls, this is a nice curvey little "outcropping" that supports the shower nozzle and controls. Right behind that is where I think the outlet resides. Hence the "not flat" surface. The shelf just above it is a continuation of the wall, the only seam is vertically on the left and right, and the wall ends just under the headliner. There is another seam about a 6" above the seat, so it appears to be a panel that can be removed, I'm just wary about getting into it, and putting it back , plus the caulk bead is soooo small, I'll never be able to match it. So, I'm guessing it was a pain to remove/reinstall Alan?
Lori
The sealant can be cut with a razor knife. As I recall there are some screw on the Nav table side that must be accessed from behind the wood that supports the VHF and stereo. Almond colored silicone is reapplied after reinstalling the panel. A finger works best for smoothing. I still think I would prefer to install a water tight screw out deck plate very near the shower controls. A 6" deck plate would allow plenty of room to access everything back there at any time in the future. PS if you opt to do it, take pictures, please.
The sealant can be cut with a razor knife. As I recall there are some screw on the Nav table side that must be accessed from behind the wood that supports the VHF and stereo. Almond colored silicone is reapplied after reinstalling the panel. A finger works best for smoothing. I still think I would prefer to install a water tight screw out deck plate very near the shower controls. A 6" deck plate would allow plenty of room to access everything back there at any time in the future. PS if you opt to do it, take pictures, please.
Getting old *grr
Right you are. I have a 33.5 and it is configured differently than the 35.5. I misread the original post. It's hell getting old.
Right you are. I have a 33.5 and it is configured differently than the 35.5. I misread the original post. It's hell getting old.
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