Removing the rudder

Oct 2, 2005
465
I should probably remove the rudder and split it open to inspect
the welds in the framework when I haul out this spring. From
descriptions I've read there is a plastic bearing or "button" in the
rudder shoe that prevents the shaft from wearing on the bronze shoe.
Are replacements available for that bearing,or what would I use to
replace it? Thanks
Craig Tern #1519
 
Oct 31, 2019
562
I found out a lot of rudders are damaged when the boat is lifted with the sling and the sling is on the rudder! Make some marks on the boot-stripe where the sling should be. It will prevent a lot of head aches.
Wilhelm, V-257
 
Jun 2, 2004
128
Craig,

I was wondering the same thing. I had to replace my rudder last
spring and when I remounted it I just set the post in the bronze show
as I hadn't notice any kind of bearing when I took the rudder off. I
just took the boat out of the water the other day and will remove the
shoe to see if there is any evidence of wear.

I elected to build a new rudder rather then going to the trouble of
trying to repair the old, although I did use the old shaft but had
several new tangs welded on. I built the rudder out of laminated 3/4
marine ply using the old rudder as a pattern and then covered the
whole thing with epoxy and glass.

I was thinking that graphite impregnated epoxy might be a suitable
bearing - any comments on that?

Tom
-- In AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com, "vegatern" vegatern@... wrote:
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi All

I make the bearings from a material called Vesconite that has just about zero absorbtion in salt water, highly lubricated bearing material, hard wearing.

Cheers

Steve B (steve@...)
 
Oct 2, 2005
465
Perhaps someone might suggest how much time I might require to
complete this job; remove and split the rudder, perhaps re-weld the
framework and replace the foam, re-join the halves and rehang. I will
do the work myself and was thinking perhaps 3 days. The personnel at
the yard think I should allow 7 to 10 days. I always, always, under
estimate time, but am I really that far out of line? It makes a
difference as to what else I try to get done.

Tom, Is the new rudder you built of plywood much heavier than the
original? Do you think it makes a difference? An option I have
considered is to build a complete new rudder and just switch them out
when I haul, but it seems to be a bit of overkill.

Craig
 
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Craig,
I'd be tempted to split and re-build the original. The pictures in
the files section under "How to Build A Vega Rudder" give one a
pretty good idea what you get when you split one open. You could add
a third rib, between the two originals, for extra strength maybe.
Just a thought ...

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi Tom

Email address works: steve@...

Rudder Bearing is £12 plus carriage (£2). Payable via Paypal to steve@... or US Dollar cheque payable to I D Webb and posted to me at:

Steve Birch, 3 Cockshot Road, Malvern, Worcs WR14 2TT, UK

Cheers

Steve B
 
Oct 2, 2005
465
Hi Steve, I will E-mail you about ordering the rudder bearing but
first I should ask if you also have a source for the cast bronze
latches for the cockpit lockers. I am short two and have not found
duplicates here. I have posted a picture of one of them in the photo
section in Tern's portfolio, in case various types were used over the
years. Thanks
Craig
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi Craig

Im afraid I do not have a source for the locker lid latches. I have been searching for quite a while and never been able to find a replacement.

Cheers

Steve