Removing the Rudder on a C-30

[RosaMaria]

This Spring I will need to remove the rudder on my 1991 C-30 MK-II (fin keel) After a bit of research, it would seem that when the boat is is the yard, there will need to be extra clearance to allow the rudder to be dropped down. In looking through posts on various forums I haven seen comments claiming a range of as little as 6 inches, to over 2 feet of of blocks being required under the keel. That's quite a range. The boat will be on concrete, so just digging a hole under the rudder is not an option, as it seems some people have done. Anyone here ever done this before?

George R.

 

[Bad Obsession]

I had this done by a Marina in Deltaville prepurchase. I watched the whole thing. It is a BIG job and they used the travel lift to get the boat up and the rudder in. They set it back down and then did the work to get the rudder put on right.

It was a BIG job and I think it cost the P.O. about 5K

 

[Coriolisbc]

Hi George, What is the reason you are having to remove the Rudder?

 

[Bad Obsession]

I would be willing to bet it deals with delamination. That is what happened to my rudder. I have a new rudder on my boat when I bought it in 2005.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

G,

I have question pal, why do you suspect delamination? Is this in fact the culprit?
If yes, hauling the boat out at the yard should be able to repair it in place. If the rudder needs to be removed, set it up with the yard to keep your boat in the sling when hauled to remove it then.

I assume you will be doing a bottom job, so while this is being done (on the stands), the rudder can be repaired. When time to re-spash, and while in the sling, re-attach the rudder then.

The toughest part is removing the quadrant, but I'll bet the yard costs won't be that bad. They should charge about 3-6 manhours for the rudder minus repair costs. I had my rudder removed once and it wasn't that bad. I believe inside the boat is a washer that seals the top of the rudder tube. Call Kent @ Catalina for info and he might be able to send you a drawing of the setup (818-884-7700).

If you go this rout, make sure to inspect the bottom of the rudder tube for any uneven wear or waddling of the opening. You should also have replacement hard nylon shimmy washers. Just match up the original (1 or 2 washers should be there). these are important as your rudder is boyant and if they were damaged of broken, this will wear the bottom opening.

Hope this helps pal...

CR

 

[RosaMaria]

Nope, not delamination. The rudder shaft is bent. This happened, somehow, when the boat was transported across the country - East coast to West, by the previous owner. He just continued to use the boat like that, but when it was surveyed before purchase, it was determined it should be replaced. The price of the boat was reduced accordingly - $5K. I have already purchased a new rudder from Foss, but of course I will need to install it when I have the boat hauled, probably within a few weeks.

George R.

 

[chief14326]

Not sure if it is too late to help, but I replaced my rudder a few years back. I also purchased it from the great folks at Foss. The toughest part is the shaft has to be cut to size as it is shipped long. The other major job is to drill the hole for the Radial Drive Wheel. I paid top have the boat lifted in the spring. I have a wing keel, so it was not that bad. The yard did charge for that work. They would not allow me to dig a hole. I placed the rudder in the rudder tube and marked the length. I also marked the location for the bolt. I then took it to a local machine shop and had them cut the stainless. The rest was easy.

 

[RosaMaria]

The rudder is out. The yard simply piled wood blocks under the keel too allow enough room below the rudder so the shaft would clear. The rudder shaft on my 91 C30 MK II is about 21 inches, so they allowed about 25 inches bottom of rudder to ground. Now, however, I have a more troubling problem. Cracks have been discovered at the aft end of the strut. About 3 inches in length beginning where the strut exits the hull, proceeding vertically about 3 inches on both sides. I can slide a thin spatula in about an inch, so it's not just the gel coat. The strut does not seem to be loose, however, and can't be moved at all by hand. I forsee my bank account shrinking. Ah, the joys of boat ownership.......

 

[Anonymous 121765]

RM,

The good news is that fiberglas is amazing in that it is easily fixed. Ask the yard what steps they will take in re-glassing the cracks. Make sure after grinding, it is checked for water intrusion & allowed to dried properly. This applies to the surrounding glass also. Ask to use a moisture meter to ensure dryness before filling in.

Ask what type of filler they will use for strength. and if the glass guy is good. I'll bet the whole job will take at most 3 hours. Fiberglas repairs when done right will be as strong or stronger as the original.

Keep us posted on the work........

CR

 

[rbmcintire]

"Milled Glass" is the most structurally competent filler additive to epoxy. It's the best choice for this strut location and when grinding out a Catalina Smile at the keel stub. Additionally, the type of epoxy is important. After reading the tech material at West System and using it on our own C-30, I became a huge fan of G-Flex for these types of repairs. If you have some potential for movement or vibration, yet still need strength, G-Flex/ Milled Glass is a very good combination.

Rob

 

[RosaMaria]

The yard will grind away the area and do an "exploratory" to see what's behind the cracked section, then determine how to proceed with the repair. The strut itself is so solid you can shake the entire boat with it without the strut moving at all. So, that at least gives hope that repair will only be required on the bottom side. The nightmare scenario would be having to remove the fuel tank ( which is full) and grind away the top side as well to get at the nuts.

 

[rbmcintire]

That drawing is a keeper, thanks for posting.

Rob

 

[Anonymous 121765]

RM,

I had the same problem in my 1980 C.
I think the yard did it while lifting/moving the boat while in the straps & this may have been on the shaft. Alas, I wasn't there to see what the cause was.

I discovered it the day after leaving the yard on a week long hiatus.

I did the repair from inside and really beefed up the whole area. All other struts I have seen, had the strut base plate thru-bolted from the outside of the hull, not mudded in from inside (a very poor design). That's why when folks ask me what type of sailboat I have, I reply, "it's a Chevy".

The tank was pretty easy to get out. For me it was 3 screws (on a 2X2 angle) on both sides of the tank mounting.

I didn't get the cracking on the bottom of the hull though. I wonder if you hit something submerged or, maybe your engine does not have the right alignment to the shaft. This excess vibration may have caused the cracking from out-of alignment & vibration/shaft whip.

Be sure to check this may not be the cause of the problem when you do the glass work Bro..........

CR