Removing the Prop for Inspection

[Paul Akers]

I'm removing my prop to inspect the key. I have a very small bit of slack (about 1/8" to 1/16") in the prop/shaft connection and the yard manager says that it may be a worn key. Last season I picked up some line around the prop that may have caused this to occur.My question is - how tight are the locking nuts for the prop? I removed the locking pin and the first nut. They were a bit tight. The second nut is tight, but it does move, and it really feels like it might strip. I might be gun-shy, but I want to be cautious. The shaft is S/S and the nut is brass. Any comments?

 

[Bob]

Problem??

Hi Paul,Info you gave is not clear. Prop and nuts most likely bronze and prop shaft ss.You can cut the nut off if it doesn't respond to torque.Most likely you will need a prop puller to get the prop off. Not sure if you will have the room to fit a prop puller between rudder.Maybe cheaper to have someone replace the key after you remove the rudder if you can't borrow a puller and prop won't still come off.Good luck.Bob

 

[p323ms]

moves but might strip???

If the nut moves lube it up with wd-40 and take your chances. Good news is that the shaft is SS and any damage should be to the nut which is relatively cheap!!!  Some friends had to cut off their old prop. They had hit something and it had turned the key and jamed everything too tight to remove. They saved the shaft and nut. The prop was a total loss but they were replacing it anyway.  Use a wheel puller!!!!

 

[Paul Akers]

Shouldn't Need Prop-puller

I'm not expecting to need a prop puller. I say this because I have the same amount of slack both ways (for & aft, side to side) on the shaft. It almost seems that that nuts should be a hair tighter to push the prop the very short distance ONTO the shaft. But this is also what makes me think that the key is damaged and needs inspection.I wasn't sure if the nuts were brass or bronze. Bronze is more logical and is softer than brass. My thought was: "If they strip, the SS is a lot tougher." I will dose the nuts and prop with penetrating oil. Then try it again.Thanks for the input, thus far. As always, re-assuring.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Not to worry.

Your analysis shows the prop to already be loose Paul. That nut should not present a problem so long as the shaft holds with the tranny in gear. The threads will not strip on a stainless shaft. Not with a bronze or brass nut.If the prop were a problem to remove I would take out the shaft. Especially if I had wound something around it last season. You will want to replace the shaft(cutless) bearing anyway. You can loosen the shaft strut to get the shaft enough off center to pull it out with prop attached. Much easier than removing the rudder. Probably needs new bolts and a good rebed anyway.

 

[chuckwayne]

removing prop nuts

Hi Paul,I assume you know this but for the discussion thread....Never attempt to turn the prop/shaft with the tranny in gear and the compression levers engaged! it's possible to turn the crank enough to fire a cylinder,possibly causing severe injury-always release the compression levers when working on the drive train so there's no possibility of compressing a cylinder enough to fire! To remove the nut, use a large shaft/crowbar/screwdriver to wedge the nuts that hold the shaft hub to the tranny so the shaft can't turn

 

[Paul Akers]

Recommended by the Yard

Thanks, Chuck for the concern and caution that you offerred. I never thought of the engine turning over. I always leave the boat in neutral when the engine isn't running and it gets stored that way.The yard recommends using a 2x4 to "jam" the prop when working on it. I did that when I removed the first nut and it worked well.Just the thought of the engine turning over is enough to scare anybody.

 

[chuckwayne]

removong prop redux

Hi Paul,using a 2x4 can work if your prop is the right shape to hold it, and maybe you've got a helper.... those of us who worked on gas engines for years sometimes forget you can't just turn the ignition off on a diesel

 

[Carl12422]

If you do use a prop puller please put the

the large nut back on loose after removing the smaller one.. BEFORE putting alot of pressure on the prop with the prop puller.. I didn't do this when pulling mine.. That prop shot off the shaft almost taking my leg off. The larger nut will hold the prop on the shaft..Once pressureis on the prop with the puller just tap the prop with a hammer it will come right off.Mine had been on there for 17 years..