I would like to gain access to behind (above) my headliner. I am adding a couple of new rope clutches to the deack above and need access to where they come through the deck. There seems to be some inscrutable secret to removing this though and it eludes me. Has anybody here done this? What is the secret?
Removing the Headliner in my H33
- Thread starter AndyK
- Start date
- Status
Is it the fake leather headliner?
if it is, pick a corner and start to pull it down, when you want to put it back up, take a couple crap AOL Cd's and roll the headliner back in, use tongue depressors to fit it back in the corners, it helps if it is a hot day out, the plastic is more pliable.
if it is, pick a corner and start to pull it down, when you want to put it back up, take a couple crap AOL Cd's and roll the headliner back in, use tongue depressors to fit it back in the corners, it helps if it is a hot day out, the plastic is more pliable.
Through the hole
I had same problem fitting two new clutches to my H33 2004. I had no luck fiddling with the headliner as Mike suggests, so I removed the two light fittings which reveal a hole just lage enough to get your hand through and manouver a nut, washer and wrench. You need someone up top to screw it down while the other works the wrench. Two points to make: 1. If I was doing it again I would tap a hole through the backing plate instead of just drilling and 2. I Would have bought the add on spinlock kit to enable a neater quadruple clutch assembly rather than the separate clutch. Having said that my system works very well, to Port I have the Headsail halyard, reef I foot tension, reef 2 foot tension (got rid of single line reefing) and kicker control; to Starboard, reef 1 luff, reef 2 luff, Main sheet and Main halyard.My next challenge is how to set up the cruising shute controls! Any ideas?
I had same problem fitting two new clutches to my H33 2004. I had no luck fiddling with the headliner as Mike suggests, so I removed the two light fittings which reveal a hole just lage enough to get your hand through and manouver a nut, washer and wrench. You need someone up top to screw it down while the other works the wrench. Two points to make: 1. If I was doing it again I would tap a hole through the backing plate instead of just drilling and 2. I Would have bought the add on spinlock kit to enable a neater quadruple clutch assembly rather than the separate clutch. Having said that my system works very well, to Port I have the Headsail halyard, reef I foot tension, reef 2 foot tension (got rid of single line reefing) and kicker control; to Starboard, reef 1 luff, reef 2 luff, Main sheet and Main halyard.My next challenge is how to set up the cruising shute controls! Any ideas?
Hmmm, both suggestions are possibilities...
I think I will try the access through the light fixture first as this is least intrusive. Yes Mike, it is the fake leather type of fabric. It seems to be holding up really well so far in my 2004. We wipe it down every year with a vinyl care product called 'Armor All' to keep it from drying out and cracking. I agree with tapping the holes Nick, that is my plan. But I will still be adding a nut and washer to the back side for additional strength. My setup left to right will be: Port side - (new) Spinnaker Halyard Jib Halyard (on furling so it only gets used twice a year) (two) Continuous furling line for in-mast furling Starboard side - (new) Boom kicker (vang) control line Main outhaul Main Sheet Main Halyard As far as the setup for the asymetrical spinnaker - Tack line - at the base of the cockpit arch on both sides is a pad eye. From front to back I have a block on the port side of the anchor roller, and four fair leads on the port stantions. On the pad eye on the base of the arch I have a block that redirects to a new six inch cleat added to the port deck. This new cleat is in a similar position as the cleat on the starboard side used for the jib roller furling. I have purchased an ATN tacker to help control the lateral position of the sail. See http://atninc.com/tacker.html Spinnaker Halyard - Down the mast to a redirector block at the base of the mast. Through the deck organizer and back to a new rope clutch. Spinnaker Sheets both port and starboard sides have new blocks on the pad eyes at the base of the arch. That's it. If I can get the rope clutches installed this job will be done.
I think I will try the access through the light fixture first as this is least intrusive. Yes Mike, it is the fake leather type of fabric. It seems to be holding up really well so far in my 2004. We wipe it down every year with a vinyl care product called 'Armor All' to keep it from drying out and cracking. I agree with tapping the holes Nick, that is my plan. But I will still be adding a nut and washer to the back side for additional strength. My setup left to right will be: Port side - (new) Spinnaker Halyard Jib Halyard (on furling so it only gets used twice a year) (two) Continuous furling line for in-mast furling Starboard side - (new) Boom kicker (vang) control line Main outhaul Main Sheet Main Halyard As far as the setup for the asymetrical spinnaker - Tack line - at the base of the cockpit arch on both sides is a pad eye. From front to back I have a block on the port side of the anchor roller, and four fair leads on the port stantions. On the pad eye on the base of the arch I have a block that redirects to a new six inch cleat added to the port deck. This new cleat is in a similar position as the cleat on the starboard side used for the jib roller furling. I have purchased an ATN tacker to help control the lateral position of the sail. See http://atninc.com/tacker.html Spinnaker Halyard - Down the mast to a redirector block at the base of the mast. Through the deck organizer and back to a new rope clutch. Spinnaker Sheets both port and starboard sides have new blocks on the pad eyes at the base of the arch. That's it. If I can get the rope clutches installed this job will be done.
A couple of questions Andy
The Tacker sounds interesting I was just going to put the tack line under the anchor roller. 1. Why do you need the tack line to run back to the cockpit? When it is set up to the correct height with the Tacker doesn't it just remain in the one position, maybe secured around the front cleat? 2. Are you fitting a dousing sock? 3. Do you think that you can gybe the asymetrical spinnaker around the front of the forestay? My sailmaker says it will work and fits a sort of forked batten which hold the slack sheet around the front of the sail and catches the other one as the sail gybes 4. Did you buy the smallest Tacker, Size A?
The Tacker sounds interesting I was just going to put the tack line under the anchor roller. 1. Why do you need the tack line to run back to the cockpit? When it is set up to the correct height with the Tacker doesn't it just remain in the one position, maybe secured around the front cleat? 2. Are you fitting a dousing sock? 3. Do you think that you can gybe the asymetrical spinnaker around the front of the forestay? My sailmaker says it will work and fits a sort of forked batten which hold the slack sheet around the front of the sail and catches the other one as the sail gybes 4. Did you buy the smallest Tacker, Size A?
nick
The tack line needs to be adjustable and having it in the cockpit is the best way to do it easily. The tack line controls the entry of the akite. As you sail deeper the tack line is eased and the leading edge of the spinnaker rocks out to weather. 6 to 8' of ease should be about right. The problem with the ATN Tacker is that it limits this motion and prevents the tack from floating to weather which limits how deep you can sail. Jibing is done either between the forestay and the kite(inside jibe) or around itself(outside jibe). The inside jibe takes a little more practice and timing but is faster. When first learning to do this I would use the outside jibe, its nearly impossible to mess up.
The tack line needs to be adjustable and having it in the cockpit is the best way to do it easily. The tack line controls the entry of the akite. As you sail deeper the tack line is eased and the leading edge of the spinnaker rocks out to weather. 6 to 8' of ease should be about right. The problem with the ATN Tacker is that it limits this motion and prevents the tack from floating to weather which limits how deep you can sail. Jibing is done either between the forestay and the kite(inside jibe) or around itself(outside jibe). The inside jibe takes a little more practice and timing but is faster. When first learning to do this I would use the outside jibe, its nearly impossible to mess up.
Been away Sailing...
Alan, Sorry I did not reply sooner. I just got back a couple of days ago from a ten day sail up to Northeast Harbor Maine. 1) Nick answered the question about adjusting the tack line. 2)Yes, I had it fitted with a dousing sock. It take a little getting used to. You have to secure the sock once it is up or it actually came back down during light air. Oops... 3)Outside gybing around the forestay is correct. Be careful though. I was not specific enough when I ordered my spinnaker sheets (from this site) and they came too short. I actually have to tie the lazy sheet off on a forward stantion in order to sail correctly. Makes gybing a bit of a gymnastic exercise as I completley remove from the block one side (to tie it off forward) and retrieve the tied off (lazy) sheet on the other. I am going to have to buy new sheets...again. 4) Size A tacker worked fine. I just make sure I furl my jib nice and tight.
Alan, Sorry I did not reply sooner. I just got back a couple of days ago from a ten day sail up to Northeast Harbor Maine. 1) Nick answered the question about adjusting the tack line. 2)Yes, I had it fitted with a dousing sock. It take a little getting used to. You have to secure the sock once it is up or it actually came back down during light air. Oops... 3)Outside gybing around the forestay is correct. Be careful though. I was not specific enough when I ordered my spinnaker sheets (from this site) and they came too short. I actually have to tie the lazy sheet off on a forward stantion in order to sail correctly. Makes gybing a bit of a gymnastic exercise as I completley remove from the block one side (to tie it off forward) and retrieve the tied off (lazy) sheet on the other. I am going to have to buy new sheets...again. 4) Size A tacker worked fine. I just make sure I furl my jib nice and tight.
AndyK
My 2006 Hunter 33 came with spinaker gear from factory. I have an APC (Doyle) and this year I installed a sock so that I could fly it single handed. I agree on the comment about the sock falling in light air. It must be secured. There is a cleat on the mast. As for gybe, I agree you need long sheets ( I have) and it actually works. I do not have to leave the cockpit and am single handing.
My 2006 Hunter 33 came with spinaker gear from factory. I have an APC (Doyle) and this year I installed a sock so that I could fly it single handed. I agree on the comment about the sock falling in light air. It must be secured. There is a cleat on the mast. As for gybe, I agree you need long sheets ( I have) and it actually works. I do not have to leave the cockpit and am single handing.
- Status