I had a very nice weekend to peel the covering off the boat this weekend and I was seized with the notion of refinishing and rebeding the teak handrails, companionway sliders and the toerails. The handrails and slides came off with out too much problem, but I am confounded with the toerails. I have removed the bungs, but it appears that perhaps a glue was used to set the bungs and it has attached itself to the screws. Anyone have any experience removing the toerails? I searched the archives and did not find any relevant posts. Any insight/suggestions are welcomed. Chuck Everlong - 1975 O'Day 25
Removing Teak Toerails
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Just did it!
Chuck, I just removed the toe rails on my 25 this past weekend. The new ones went on over the past couple days. Once I removed the plugs there was definitely some work in getting to the screws. Some were easier than others but it took a good bit of time picking at them with the awl on my multi tool. As I wanted to reuse the screws, I needed to clean out the phillips sockets before reinstalling. I wound up using my Dremel with a pointed burr bit to clean them out. Knowing that now I would have done that on the boat to clear them out on the boat. Yeah, hindsight... Where in RI are you? Greg
Chuck, I just removed the toe rails on my 25 this past weekend. The new ones went on over the past couple days. Once I removed the plugs there was definitely some work in getting to the screws. Some were easier than others but it took a good bit of time picking at them with the awl on my multi tool. As I wanted to reuse the screws, I needed to clean out the phillips sockets before reinstalling. I wound up using my Dremel with a pointed burr bit to clean them out. Knowing that now I would have done that on the boat to clear them out on the boat. Yeah, hindsight... Where in RI are you? Greg
RE: Just did it
Greg, Did you replace them? I was actually hoping of reusing them, but replacing them is not a bad option. I'm actually in Warren and have a mooring on the Kicky (best hurricane hole on the bay!). I'm hoping to get her launched in the next couple of weeks (so much for beating Joe out to the bay this year!). I attached my blog on restoring the boat, really haven't updated much since last year, but it's a good place to store pictures. Thanks for info, I'll just keep picking at it. Chuck
Greg, Did you replace them? I was actually hoping of reusing them, but replacing them is not a bad option. I'm actually in Warren and have a mooring on the Kicky (best hurricane hole on the bay!). I'm hoping to get her launched in the next couple of weeks (so much for beating Joe out to the bay this year!). I attached my blog on restoring the boat, really haven't updated much since last year, but it's a good place to store pictures. Thanks for info, I'll just keep picking at it. Chuck
Replaced
Chuck, I did replace them. The wood was beyond what I thought I could make look good. I wound up buying the teak at Boater's world, 2 pieces, ripped them down, routed the edges, etc. etc. Just realize that at $100 for the set plus labor, you may be better off if you can refinish the ones you have. Good luck with the project, Greg
Chuck, I did replace them. The wood was beyond what I thought I could make look good. I wound up buying the teak at Boater's world, 2 pieces, ripped them down, routed the edges, etc. etc. Just realize that at $100 for the set plus labor, you may be better off if you can refinish the ones you have. Good luck with the project, Greg
Ahh - A Fellow Narragansett Bay Sailer
Hi Chuck, I also live in RI and sail the bay with my 1973 Oday-23. I'm just wrapping-up a pretty major restoration to her and should splash in a few days. I keep her docked at Port Edgewood in Cranston. As far as the teak restoration goes I just finished re-varnishing all of the wood on the boat and I found that 99% was able to be sanded and revarnished. The glue under the plugs was a bit of an effort but well worth the trouble once I saw the end result. I am semi-retired and restore older fiberglass boats for a hobby so I have quite a bit of experience with all kinds of problems. If I can be of any help feel free to give me a shout. On another note, I was thinking of putting out a call for local Oday owners to set-up a rendezvous one weekend this summer. Maybe Newport, Prudence Island or some other event on the bay. Any thoughts on the subject? Happy Sailing, BILL
Hi Chuck, I also live in RI and sail the bay with my 1973 Oday-23. I'm just wrapping-up a pretty major restoration to her and should splash in a few days. I keep her docked at Port Edgewood in Cranston. As far as the teak restoration goes I just finished re-varnishing all of the wood on the boat and I found that 99% was able to be sanded and revarnished. The glue under the plugs was a bit of an effort but well worth the trouble once I saw the end result. I am semi-retired and restore older fiberglass boats for a hobby so I have quite a bit of experience with all kinds of problems. If I can be of any help feel free to give me a shout. On another note, I was thinking of putting out a call for local Oday owners to set-up a rendezvous one weekend this summer. Maybe Newport, Prudence Island or some other event on the bay. Any thoughts on the subject? Happy Sailing, BILL
We've done it too
Last year, we replaced all of the teak toerails on our O'day 26. Seems like it's a popular project in R.I. We didn't have much trouble removing them. Once they were off, we tried to restore them, but they were too far gone. We ended up buying new ones from D & R Marine. At that time, Rudy only offered them in 8-foot sections, so we had to do some trimming. He may have different sizes now. We varnished them inside during the winter and had them ready for the spring. We filled some of the old deck holes with duct seal and drilled new ones when needed. We used clear Boat Life Life Seal to bed the new rails. After putting in the new bungs, we used a small brush to varnish them. That was a mistake. They were the first spots to show UV damage, even though we put on 6 coats. Next time, I will install the rails varnished but sanded lightly. That way when I replace the bungs, I will just varnish the whole rail several more times.
Last year, we replaced all of the teak toerails on our O'day 26. Seems like it's a popular project in R.I. We didn't have much trouble removing them. Once they were off, we tried to restore them, but they were too far gone. We ended up buying new ones from D & R Marine. At that time, Rudy only offered them in 8-foot sections, so we had to do some trimming. He may have different sizes now. We varnished them inside during the winter and had them ready for the spring. We filled some of the old deck holes with duct seal and drilled new ones when needed. We used clear Boat Life Life Seal to bed the new rails. After putting in the new bungs, we used a small brush to varnish them. That was a mistake. They were the first spots to show UV damage, even though we put on 6 coats. Next time, I will install the rails varnished but sanded lightly. That way when I replace the bungs, I will just varnish the whole rail several more times.
RE: On the Bay
Bill, Thanks for the info on the teak revarnishing, I'm just going to have to be patient and be careful to clean out the screws, as Greg describes. Yeah, I retired too! Got out of the Navy after 20 years and ended up working 60 hours a week, so much for the retired life! Back in the early 80's, I worked at the Reserve Center next to Port Edgewood and had my first daysailor (an O'day 12) that I kept at Pawtuxet Cove. I also used to sail out of the old Navy Marina in Allens harbor, I think I paid $1.50 an hour to rent their Ensign...ahh the good old days. I really enjoy working on these old tubs. I started off with an old Kells that was really a terrible boat, but it was cheap and I got a great Honda 4 stroke out of it. I think having a rondevous sometime this summer would be great. In the back of my mind, I wanted to make the trip up to Joe's spot up the Tiverton river. Prudence, of course would be a good meeting spot. Also, the Kicky is nice since it is very quiet although pretty shallow in some spots (I guess it depends how many folks we can get together). To make it uniquely Rhode Island, we should have it over the VJ weekend!
Bill, Thanks for the info on the teak revarnishing, I'm just going to have to be patient and be careful to clean out the screws, as Greg describes. Yeah, I retired too! Got out of the Navy after 20 years and ended up working 60 hours a week, so much for the retired life! Back in the early 80's, I worked at the Reserve Center next to Port Edgewood and had my first daysailor (an O'day 12) that I kept at Pawtuxet Cove. I also used to sail out of the old Navy Marina in Allens harbor, I think I paid $1.50 an hour to rent their Ensign...ahh the good old days. I really enjoy working on these old tubs. I started off with an old Kells that was really a terrible boat, but it was cheap and I got a great Honda 4 stroke out of it. I think having a rondevous sometime this summer would be great. In the back of my mind, I wanted to make the trip up to Joe's spot up the Tiverton river. Prudence, of course would be a good meeting spot. Also, the Kicky is nice since it is very quiet although pretty shallow in some spots (I guess it depends how many folks we can get together). To make it uniquely Rhode Island, we should have it over the VJ weekend!
Just pulled mine off
In the process of stripping my deck off, all the teak came off as well. I only had teak toerails on one side for some reason. All of the hatch and hatchboard slides came off too. I'm going to go back with ipe. A fraction of the cost with similar looks and weatherability (I hope). I haven't decided if I'm going to varnish the ipe or let it weather. I could have salvaged some of the teak. Some was glued down pretty good but would've come off in one piece if it had been in better shape. To remove the bungs, I drilled a small pilot hole in the bung, then screwed a screw into the hole to pop the bung out. Worked about 75% of the time. Since I wasn't trying to salvage the teak, I just either chiseled out the rest with a screwdriver or in some cases drilled the bungs out with a larger drill bit.
In the process of stripping my deck off, all the teak came off as well. I only had teak toerails on one side for some reason. All of the hatch and hatchboard slides came off too. I'm going to go back with ipe. A fraction of the cost with similar looks and weatherability (I hope). I haven't decided if I'm going to varnish the ipe or let it weather. I could have salvaged some of the teak. Some was glued down pretty good but would've come off in one piece if it had been in better shape. To remove the bungs, I drilled a small pilot hole in the bung, then screwed a screw into the hole to pop the bung out. Worked about 75% of the time. Since I wasn't trying to salvage the teak, I just either chiseled out the rest with a screwdriver or in some cases drilled the bungs out with a larger drill bit.
Before you buy wood, look here...
How about a all weather recycled product. See attachment. http://plasteak.com/osc/index.php?cPath=1&osCsid=cef06be1310b450b508d315b1d538bdc Ed K 26
How about a all weather recycled product. See attachment. http://plasteak.com/osc/index.php?cPath=1&osCsid=cef06be1310b450b508d315b1d538bdc Ed K 26
RE: Plast-TEAK
Ed, That is some pretty nifty stuff.. have you used it? How's it look/hold up. How's it to work with? I'm assuming this is comparable to STARBOARD?
Ed, That is some pretty nifty stuff.. have you used it? How's it look/hold up. How's it to work with? I'm assuming this is comparable to STARBOARD?
I used locally supplied HDPE
I used locally obtainable HDPE which is locally available in white or black. Chemically they are the same as the plastic teak, just not a nautical color. You can work it just like wood: saw it, drill it, router it, use the same adhesive sealant. The only thing you cannot do is glue two pieces together, it can be done but requires special techniques. My toe rails and grab rails are white. Not traditional nautical but all the pieces costs about $30.00. Prior experience with the stuff on another boat is that no problems 7 years out. Inside the boat, I used wood. But outside I can pressure wash it just like the rest of the boat. Ed K O'Day 26
I used locally obtainable HDPE which is locally available in white or black. Chemically they are the same as the plastic teak, just not a nautical color. You can work it just like wood: saw it, drill it, router it, use the same adhesive sealant. The only thing you cannot do is glue two pieces together, it can be done but requires special techniques. My toe rails and grab rails are white. Not traditional nautical but all the pieces costs about $30.00. Prior experience with the stuff on another boat is that no problems 7 years out. Inside the boat, I used wood. But outside I can pressure wash it just like the rest of the boat. Ed K O'Day 26
RE: Just did it
Greg, Thanks for the tip on using the Dremel tool. I had an old one and after messing around with it I just decided to go out and replace the 20 year-old tool! Anyways, I picked up a couple of cutting bits and it really cleaned up the hole. I had used the drill the hole into the bung and use a flattened screw to remove the bung, but a 33 year old piece of wood that has been glued in with who knows what splits like crazy. The small cutting bit really cleaned it up nice. I haven't had any problems with the rails sticking, so I'll sand them up and see how they look with a coat of varnish. Thanks for the tip.
Greg, Thanks for the tip on using the Dremel tool. I had an old one and after messing around with it I just decided to go out and replace the 20 year-old tool! Anyways, I picked up a couple of cutting bits and it really cleaned up the hole. I had used the drill the hole into the bung and use a flattened screw to remove the bung, but a 33 year old piece of wood that has been glued in with who knows what splits like crazy. The small cutting bit really cleaned it up nice. I haven't had any problems with the rails sticking, so I'll sand them up and see how they look with a coat of varnish. Thanks for the tip.
RE: Just did it
Glad to help. I just finished mine yesterday, all the plugs are in and I added another coat of teak oil. Finally that part of the boat looks beautiful. Now for the rest...I'll be looking to replace the rest of the wood over the next couple months. For now, it's time to sail!! Greg
Glad to help. I just finished mine yesterday, all the plugs are in and I added another coat of teak oil. Finally that part of the boat looks beautiful. Now for the rest...I'll be looking to replace the rest of the wood over the next couple months. For now, it's time to sail!! Greg
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