Removing Rudder from O'Day 302

[Michel16055]

Hi, I would like to know how hard or simple is it to remove the rudder on an O'Day 302.
I want to take it home for the winter and fix some delamination.
Thanks
Michel
~~~_/)~~~

 

[DannyS]

It's pretty easy. Sounds like you and I have the same winter plans. I just removed mine last weekend.
From your photo it looks like you have the same setup as I do. First you have to gain access to the steering quadrant. I got to mine through the rear stbd corner seating compartment in the cockpit. If yours is like mine, there's a plastic insert that I removed. It has an overboard drain you'll have to disconnect from underneath. Once you get this out, you'll have the best access to the quadrant. The steering cables from the pedestal wrap around either side of the quadrant and attach to screw eyes that act as the turnbuckle. you only need to loosen one side to remove the quadrant. There are six fasteners (4 long bolts around the collar and 2 short nut/bolts on the outside edge of the quadrant). Once you have the cable loosened and the fasteners removed, there is one final bolt through the collar that pins the quadrant to the rudder post. This also holds the rudder in place so be sure you have your sling run under the rudder before you revove this bolt. I had to dig a hole about 18 inches deep for the rudder to drop into to gain clearance for the top of the rudder post. It's a pretty easy operation once you get a look at it.
The bigger job will be relaminating. What's your plan?
It first, I thought I'd just cut out the delaminated portions and re-glass those areas, but I started researching vacuum bagging and I think I'm going to try that. I'm going to drill a series of holes in the delaminated areas, allow them to dry out for a month or so, use a syringe to inject epoxy and the vacuum bag it.
Something to consider... for two years now I've tried to replace the cutlass bearing. Last spring I got as far as removing the prop, uncoupling the transmission and removing the coupler from the shaft but the rudder was still in the way. I thought for sure I'd be able to gain a little bit of clearance but, the rudder has to be removed to pull the shaft. Anyway, my point is you may want to consider replacing the cutlass bearing while you have the access. This all assumes that your boat is like mine.

 

[Stoshu]

I went to my boat (1982 ODay 30) yesterday to size up parts & fittings to replace all hoses and vent lines for the holding tank. it was to be my first spring project here in vermont. through some strange time warp today I was sorking my way through replacing the cutlass bearing. no, i have not yet replaced the hoses to the head or the tank. How do these things happen?

Anyway i sucessfully removed the prop and freed up the shaft. next step is removal of the rudder. After some upside down contemplation inside of the quarter

It's pretty easy. Sounds like you and I have the same winter plans. I just removed mine last weekend.
From your photo it looks like you have the same setup as I do. First you have to gain access to the steering quadrant. I got to mine through the rear stbd corner seating compartment in the cockpit. If yours is like mine, there's a plastic insert that I removed. It has an overboard drain you'll have to disconnect from underneath. Once you get this out, you'll have the best access to the quadrant. The steering cables from the pedestal wrap around either side of the quadrant and attach to screw eyes that act as the turnbuckle. you only need to loosen one side to remove the quadrant. There are six fasteners (4 long bolts around the collar and 2 short nut/bolts on the outside edge of the quadrant). Once you have the cable loosened and the fasteners removed, there is one final bolt through the collar that pins the quadrant to the rudder post. This also holds the rudder in place so be sure you have your sling run under the rudder before you revove this bolt. I had to dig a hole about 18 inches deep for the rudder to drop into to gain clearance for the top of the rudder post. It's a pretty easy operation once you get a look at it.
The bigger job will be relaminating. What's your plan?
It first, I thought I'd just cut out the delaminated portions and re-glass those areas, but I started researching vacuum bagging and I think I'm going to try that. I'm going to drill a series of holes in the delaminated areas, allow them to dry out for a month or so, use a syringe to inject epoxy and the vacuum bag it.
Something to consider... for two years now I've tried to replace the cutlass bearing. Last spring I got as far as removing the prop, uncoupling the transmission and removing the coupler from the shaft but the rudder was still in the way. I thought for sure I'd be able to gain a little bit of clearance but, the rudder has to be removed to pull the shaft. Anyway, my point is you may want to consider replacing the cutlass bearing while you have the access. This all assumes that your boat is like mine.

 

[Stoshu]

I went to my boat (1982 ODay 30) yesterday to size up parts & fittings to replace all hoses and vent lines for the holding tank. It was to be my first spring project here in Vermont. Through some strange time warp today I was working my way through replacing the cutlass bearing. No, I have not yet replaced the hoses to the head or the tank. How do these things happen?

Anyway I sucessfully removed the prop and freed up the shaft today. Next step is removal of the rudder. After some upside down contemplation inside of the quarter berth and a short conversation with one of the yard guys your comments seem to make a lot of sense. It's going to be mid 40s and rain for the next few days so maybe it will be easier to dig that hole next week. In the meantime I have to replace those hoses.

Thanks for the advice on this. I love working on my old boat.

It's pretty easy. Sounds like you and I have the same winter plans. I just removed mine last weekend.
From your photo it looks like you have the same setup as I do. First you have to gain access to the steering quadrant. I got to mine through the rear stbd corner seating compartment in the cockpit. If yours is like mine, there's a plastic insert that I removed. It has an overboard drain you'll have to disconnect from underneath. Once you get this out, you'll have the best access to the quadrant. The steering cables from the pedestal wrap around either side of the quadrant and attach to screw eyes that act as the turnbuckle. you only need to loosen one side to remove the quadrant. There are six fasteners (4 long bolts around the collar and 2 short nut/bolts on the outside edge of the quadrant). Once you have the cable loosened and the fasteners removed, there is one final bolt through the collar that pins the quadrant to the rudder post. This also holds the rudder in place so be sure you have your sling run under the rudder before you revove this bolt. I had to dig a hole about 18 inches deep for the rudder to drop into to gain clearance for the top of the rudder post. It's a pretty easy operation once you get a look at it.
The bigger job will be relaminating. What's your plan?
It first, I thought I'd just cut out the delaminated portions and re-glass those areas, but I started researching vacuum bagging and I think I'm going to try that. I'm going to drill a series of holes in the delaminated areas, allow them to dry out for a month or so, use a syringe to inject epoxy and the vacuum bag it.
Something to consider... for two years now I've tried to replace the cutlass bearing. Last spring I got as far as removing the prop, uncoupling the transmission and removing the coupler from the shaft but the rudder was still in the way. I thought for sure I'd be able to gain a little bit of clearance but, the rudder has to be removed to pull the shaft. Anyway, my point is you may want to consider replacing the cutlass bearing while you have the access. This all assumes that your boat is like mine.

 

[DannyS]

No problem! I'm just coming to an end of my delamination fix. I called the guys at Foss Foam, they were the original manufacturers of our rudders. They said that my original plan to drill holes and inject epoxy would not work. The only way to do it right would be to cut/grind out the delamination, feather the edges out and lay in new fiberglass. Once I got the courage up to make the first cut, it all became pretty straightforward. There's a pretty decent article in this month's Sail magazine about repairing dings in gelcoat that extend beyond the fiberglass. The process is the same for laying up glass on the rudder.
I've got photos of my project if you want to see them.
Good luck!