Removing Prop Shaft

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R

Robert F

For a Beneteau First 32 vintage 1984. I am trying to change the stuffing box and to do so requires removing the prop shaft from the engine. There is a split collar surrounding the shaft at the point of attachment with the engine. Two big bolts on either side of the collar which compress it arund the shaft have been removed, and the collar opened a bit, but the shaft still wont come free. There is no obvious set screw on the collar or anyplace else, but there is a hole located on the collar but again with no apparent screw or pin meant to hold the shaft in place. Anyone know the secret to removing the shaft? With the bolts out and the collar loose I thought it would just come free but no luck. All suggestions appreciated!!
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Rust may be the culprit. A little PB Blaster carefully applied, taking care to only put it where you want it and keeping it off the seals, may help.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
You need to press the shaft out. The procedure is written up in Don Casey's This Old Boat.

Buy a set of slightly longer bolts from your local hardware store.

Fit either a small socket or stack up some nuts on a small bolt and fit this object between the center of the shaft and and the coupling on the engine side. Tape might help to hold it in place. Put your original length bolts in and tighten them sequentially to press the shaft out. Repeat, as necessary, using longer sockets / objects / bolts (the ones you bought) until the shaft is out. A tedious, but effective process. I had the bruises to prove it last summer.
 
Jan 22, 1999
62
Hunter 35 PENSACOLA, FL
When All Else Fails

.....cut the shaft in half. A 1988 prop shaft most probably needs replacement any way. And they are not that expensive considering the 20 years of wear and tear.

RD
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
RD

RD isn't incorrect about buying a new one.

After I got everything apart I had it cleaned and balanced as a rotating assembly by a marine machine shop. That is the only potential advantage. You should consider having things cleaned and balanced after going through all the trouble of taking them apart. Cost-wise DR is correct that buying new was equivalent to re-balancing old (about $350) and would have been more cheaper just in fuel savings, as I made two three hour trips to drop off and pick-up while the new stuff would have been at my door step.

Depending on who you buy from, they may be willing to balance the new stuff too.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
The procedure I wrote out is effective though. It is somewhat slow and, in my case, the limited access you may have may make it challenging. I had to reach through a small access port cut through the quarter berth. If you lack even that, I suggest you create better access, if feasible.

If you think you're having fun now, wait until you re-align everything! Your on the hard ball parking may have little to do with the final alignment, but it may be necessary to provide power to move the boat to a resting place where you can let the hull relax prior to final alignment. Now there is a primer we need Maine to do. Alignment 101.
 
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