Removing Plywood Core From under Edge of Deck

[Cool Beans]

The month of August is "Cockpit Floor Recore Month". I'm going to start pulling the pedestal next week. I plan to go in from the top (1/4" skin). I tried to talk myself into doing it from the bottom, but it looks like it will be a pain in the arse!!

My question you fine folks is, how do you get the wet plywood out from under the edge of the cut? I'm going to cut 3" in (for the taper) which will leave a 3/8" thick core, 2" deep under the edge. People who have done this before know what I'm talking about. I had a miserable time doing it on just a small section of settee by hand. It there a power tool that can clean this area out?

Thanks

 

[tommays]

Fein multmaster will cut most anything

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Agree with the multi tool, but the Fein is way expensive. I use a Porter Cable version at half the price. I MUCH prefer the no tool blade change on the PC tool as opposed to having to use the Allen wrench on the Fein.

One of the flat rectangular toothed cutter blades like shown in Tommays first pic will easily reach at least 1 1/2 inches in.

Great tools!!

 

[tommays]

Fein has had a Q for quick change blades quite a while

 

[woodster]

Dremel has a carbide blade that fits the Fein and lasts a lot longer

 

[rardiH36]

Here's a link to a thread a number of years ago which has details of my soft sole fix experience.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=642721&highlight=cockpit sole



Note my last section. If you can determine (through an exploratory hole or two) that the interior plywood isn't rotted (as was my case which I discovered only after removing the top skin), then perhaps the moisture ingress has caused the plywood instead to delaminate (which was my case). Had I known this before I started, I would have drilled nicely lined up holes through my top skin. Then let the core dry out. Then inject thinned epoxy with maybe some vibration assistance to re-glue the delaminated plywood and solidify the area.

Some more discussion about possibly repairing without peeling away the top-skin:

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=985285&highlight=cockpit sole

 

[Cool Beans]

I do have a Fein knock off that has served me well. I also debated drilling and letting the core dry out then filling the holes. I think it would be faster and less time consuming to just cut the top skin off and put in new, dry core and keep it that way. Where it IS rotten would still need to be cut and replaced anyways

My dad suggested this:

http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/4-LANCELOT-22-TOOTH-WHEEL/productinfo/446822/

That's kind of what I was thinking in my head but didn't know existed. . .thoughts? It looks like it would make quick work of anything under that ledge. Any remaining remnants I could get with the Fein or just let dry out then pack with epoxy?

Thanks all!

 

[woodster]

i have one of thoses and it is what i was thinking yesterday ....but i was not going to tell you to get one because they are very dangerous and aggressive...if you use one make damn sure your are focused totally on that and nothing else....it is like a chainsaw and can get away from you in a heartbeat .....you may need to practice using it on a timber before you attack the boat

 

[25yearslater]

I don't usually chime in on something like this but WTFungus is that death dealing nightmare? Woodster is right about practicing with a thing like that and I would add kevlar gloves. Let's not forget to mention if you go too deep in you are going to hack out the laminate that is bonded to the top and seals the core. Here is a tool I whipped up when I had the same situation with recoring my deck. It was 40 plus feet on each side (inside and outside) times two sides. Just some 3/8 thick hotrolled steel with a few bends and sharpened. Not fancy but it worked like a dream. http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34364&d=1286662684

 

[justsomeguy]

I don't usually chime in on something like this but WTFungus is that death dealing nightmare?

It's basically a chainsaw on a grinder.

 

[25yearslater]

It's basically a chainsaw on a grinder.

That's what is so scary. Having that whirling at 15,000 rpms should be a tool for real thrill seekers.

 

[justsomeguy]

That's what is so scary. Having that whirling at 15,000 rpms should be a tool for real thrill seekers.

Speaking as a thrillseeker, it's not for idiots, that's for sure.

 

[25yearslater]

Well, it's not for idiots, that's for sure.

Awww, Mr. Darwin has to get his way from time to time.

 

[justsomeguy]

Awww, Mr. Darwin has to get his way from time to time.

You've got a point, there.

 

[Picflight]

The month of August is "Cockpit Floor Recore Month". I'm going to start pulling the pedestal next week. I plan to go in from the top (1/4" skin). I tried to talk myself into doing it from the bottom, but it looks like it will be a pain in the arse!!

My question you fine folks is, how do you get the wet plywood out from under the edge of the cut? I'm going to cut 3" in (for the taper) which will leave a 3/8" thick core, 2" deep under the edge. People who have done this before know what I'm talking about. I had a miserable time doing it on just a small section of settee by hand. It there a power tool that can clean this area out?

Thanks

Post pictures of what you have on the deck, top side and how it looks from below.

I think it would be cleaner if you could do it from below.