Removing Paint

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May 7, 2011
22
Trying to buy . West Milford
I just recently bought a Rebel 16 that has a horrendous paint job and I'm in the process of removing it and looking to see what everyones favorite way to do it is.

The topside of the boat has 2 coats and the bottom side has either 4 or 5 coats.

I started off with a non-razor bladed scraper and scraped all the loose stuff off. Then I started to hit it with 80grit on a DA sander and the stuff is just taking forever to get off.

does anyone have any suggestions in how to speed up the process.

Thanks
Matt
 
Oct 2, 2006
1,517
Jboat J24 commack




It cant be all that much work just think of doing the same thing to a 29' hull :D





The fiberglass safe stripper was pretty worthless BUT the you have to be REALLY CAREFUL with the strong stuff as it burns your skin/eyes and if you leave it on will dammage the fiberglass

You have to be careful with sanding as you can do some serious damage that hard to UNDO :eek:


If you stick it out and use good stuff you will get a nice looking long lasting finish
 
Jun 28, 2010
11
Catalina C 22 Port Lavaca
Paint removal sugestions

I just finished removing all of the paint on my C22. Bottom paint can be removed with the paint stripper that you can buy at the box stores. Yes it is messy and you need to wear protective apparel, including eye/face protection. Even if it doesn't get it all off it will break the paint down enough that the sander will do much better.
As for the rest of the hull; If it is a marine polyurethane then a good heavy duty rotary sander is all that I have found that works. This is not a random orbital or d/a sander. I also used 60 grit paper, but you have to have a gentle touch. 80 grit will be more forgiving. Dust mask, safety glasses, and padded mechanic gloves help.
Expect to do some faring of the hull, it's inevitable.

Lots of patience and loud music required.
Freeman
S/V Monkeyfist
 
Jun 28, 2010
11
Catalina C 22 Port Lavaca
Oh, I almost forgot.
Easy Off Oven Cleaner works on a lot of the topside paints, but not on the poly's.

Monkeyfist
 
May 7, 2011
22
Trying to buy . West Milford
Thanks for the tips guys!

After I posted this I went back outside and went to town with the DA on the topside paint and started making really good progress with 50 grit, once I get all the paint removed I'll follow behind with 80 grit so I have a nice surface to paint on.

My brother just gave me a porter cable rotary sander that I some 5" 60 grit discs that I'm going to try out tomorrow to see how it does. Hopefully that works faster than the DA.

Is it worthwhile to do the final 80grit sanding with a flexible board sander as opposed to using a DA or a rotary to try and get a smoother flatter and better transitions as opposed to the uneven finish you can end up with by using a rotary or DA. I know it'll be more work for me but will the finish be better?

Also I have a bunch of gel-coat cracks on the top side. What's everyones favorite way of fixing these?

And one last question, I still have not decided on paints for both topside and bottom side and the more I read about paints the less I'm sure of what I should buy.

This boat is going to be raced so I'm looking for a fast bottom paint. The boat will probably ONLY see freshwater with a very occasional salt water but will be rinsed right after being in salt water. As of right now the boat will not be stored in the water but in the future there is a high possibility of it being stored in the water for the summer and then stored on land for the winter.

What is my best option, hard, ablative, something else I'm beyond confused.

Thanks for the help guys!!
 
May 7, 2011
22
Trying to buy . West Milford
oh one more thing, when painting the bottom of the boat, is it critical to have a water line showing two different colors like the boat above or can I get away with painting the entire bottom of my boat blue and the topside (from the rubrails up) in white?
 
Jun 28, 2010
11
Catalina C 22 Port Lavaca
Gel coat cracks

Matt,
Whippy has been giving me some options and all around good info about this very subject. Check out the C22 forum and look for the Gel Coat Crazing postings for Monkeyfist. It has been within the past few day's.
60 grit is very aggressive, 80 grit is good to smooth out all of the sanding marks made by the 60. Following up with 100 or 150 will give you a pretty good base for the primer. I would suggest 3 or more coats of a high build waterproof primer, and sanding with a long board before trying the finish paint.
As to what color to paint and where to paint to.....It's a personal choice. If you get tired of people saying that your waterline is too high you can always repaint it :)

Good Luck.
 
May 7, 2011
22
Trying to buy . West Milford
I hope and pray that my bottom doesn't look like that thread. I would probably break down and cry is that happens ha.

Well I got to go out sailing this morning with my local rebel fleet for their race and had a blast with them. The downside was I didn't get a chance to work on the boat but this week I can hopefully make some progress and get some pictures online.
 
Jun 28, 2010
11
Catalina C 22 Port Lavaca
Yea, the bottom looks pretty rough. The price was right and I think that everything is fixable with a little work and a couple of gallons of epoxy. I bought the boat to part out and build a composite boat from scratch. Got to looking and figured that rebuilding this hull would be cheaper...we will see.
Am glad you had a good sail. Everybody deserves a little fun on the water every now and then. Where are you sailing at?
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,323
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
STOP!!!!

My brother just gave me a porter cable rotary sander that I some 5" 60 grit discs that I'm going to try out tomorrow to see how it does. Hopefully that works faster than the DA.
Do not put that rotary disc sander on your boat's bottom with 60 grit... you will destroy it....It will eat right through the gel coat in blink of an eye. A variable speed rotary sander/polisher with 150 grit or higher, on a padded wheel, will work fantastic. The speed should be low-medium.

Is it worthwhile to do the final 80grit sanding with a flexible board sander as opposed to using a DA or a rotary to try and get a smoother flatter and better transitions as opposed to the uneven finish you can end up with by using a rotary or DA. I know it'll be more work for me but will the finish be better?
If you are going to do any long board sanding to build your "racing bottom" you won't have any success on bare fiberglass. You need to apply a "fairing compound" that will respond to hand sanding with a long board. Just think about how difficult it was to sand up to this point..... and you'll figure it out.
Building a racing bottom is much more labor and product intense than just sanding off some old paint. You can't get the bottom fair without applying the additional products.... do some research... google "build a sailboat racing bottom"

And one last question, I still have not decided on paints for both topside and bottom side and the more I read about paints the less I'm sure of what I should buy.

This boat is going to be raced so I'm looking for a fast bottom paint. The boat will probably ONLY see freshwater with a very occasional salt water but will be rinsed right after being in salt water. As of right now the boat will not be stored in the water but in the future there is a high possibility of it being stored in the water for the summer and then stored on land for the winter.

What is my best option, hard, ablative, something else I'm beyond confused.

Thanks for the help guys!!
Let's see, it's a 16 foot boat, stored on a trailer right? Don't put anything on the bottom beside the topcoat. Before each race, you wipe it down, drop it in the water and go..... after the race you pull it out of the water, wipe it down.... and go to the bar.

If you want to leave it in the water for a few weeks.... you can always pull it out occasionally to look at it.... but it isn't worth going to the trouble of putting bottom paint on the boat that will slow you down when you race.

So.... I'd leave it simple. Strip the hull, fair it, then cover the whole thing with the topside paint of your choice. You don't need bottom paint. Don't wax the bottom.... wax is slow.... just wipe it down when you pull the boat out of the water.

When I campaigned my Nacra 5.2..... algae would form quickly on the hulls... but that is easily removed with a little diluted toilet bowl cleaner (i.e. acid) Just pay attention to it and it is no problem.

As far as storing your 16 footer in the water.... I think you would be better to store in on the trailer.... mast up.... at the marina. Then you can just drop her in whenever you want to go.... but don't have to step the mast and hook up the rigging. You're not spending the night on it anyway, are you.

Good luck on your racing.....
 
May 7, 2011
22
Trying to buy . West Milford
Monkey I will be sailing on a lake called Greenwood lake in North New Jersey.

Thanks for all the tips guys.

Any advice on what paint to use, I'll be sailing in freshwater keeping the boat in the water for the whole season, storing it for the winter months on land and I'm looking for a paint that doesn't need to be reapplied every season.

PS I just remembered that the posted above me mentioned painting the whole boat with topside paint. I'm not sure I want to go that route because there is a chance I'll be storing the boat in the water for the full summer months season so I want to be able to have that option as storing it at a marina isn't an option because their prices are ridiculous. I have a dock on the creek that leads to my lake as well as a friends house who is on the lake where I might store the boat as well
 
May 7, 2011
22
Trying to buy . West Milford
So I think I've finally decided on the paints.

Interlux epoxy primekote & Interlux Perfection for the top side in snow white

Interlux VC Performance in white for the bottom.

Hopefully I can get away with 1 gallon of primekote, 1 1/2 galllon of Perfection and 1 2 gallon kit of VC Performance which will put me at about 360 bucks with a filler and some cleaners. Overall not too bad about 100 more than I expected to finish but supposedly this will give me about 7 years of worry free finishes.
 
Oct 2, 2006
1,517
Jboat J24 commack
You may need the gallon of primer BUT the quart of perfection will be plenty unless you make some really big mistakes :)

It only takes 48 oz of mixed paint
24oz paint
12oz activator
12oz thinner to roll and tip a 29' hull per coat

Perfection is fussy stuff but so is Awlgrip about weather and instructions
 
May 7, 2011
22
Trying to buy . West Milford
Yeah I was reading about the perfection stuff and holy cow is it fussy with its temperature and the way it's applied.

Hopefully I can get this boat finished sanded down and ready for primer soon since I believe the perfection likes warm weather to be applied.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,244
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
Yeah I was reading about the perfection stuff and holy cow is it fussy with its temperature and the way it's applied.

Hopefully I can get this boat finished sanded down and ready for primer soon since I believe the perfection likes warm weather to be applied.
it can be if you dont use caution....try to pick a time to use it when it is in the mid 80's.....if it gets above 90 put the thinner in it to slow down the dry time...it will orange peel if you use it in to hot of an enviroment......

regards

woody
 
May 7, 2011
22
Trying to buy . West Milford
what's everyone's favorite way of dealing with cracked gelcoat. I got a bunch of spots on the top side that are all cracked. Do I dremel them out a little bit to give me a spot to shove in some filler and then sand smooth or something else?
 
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