removing mast step on 78' h27

[kielboatsa]

I have a 1978 h27 and I am planning on running my lines back to the cockpit. I would like to install a mast step plate to attch the blocks at the base of the mast to. How is the mast step attached on a 78' h27? are there screws from the deck side or is it bolted requireing access from the cabin? If I need access from the cabin, do I need to take a portin of the wood wall / pocket door apart to acess the bolts?

 

[Randy Burns]

If understand you correctly I think that mast extention that the blocks attach to would attach to the mast, I doubt you would have to do anything below. However your rigging would all need to be longer. Search the archives, Ive seen some pictures somewhere.

 

[Manny]

The step is through bolted from inside. It is held by 4 long screws with lock nuts (actually mine only had three). After the mast is removed the compression post needs to be removed. The bulkhead does not have to be removed. The teak trim gets removed from the post by popping out the bungs and unscrewing. It is also screwed to the bulkhead near the liner, you may need to remove some of the trim on the bulkhead to access those screws. You will need a floor jack to lift the liner about half an inch or so to be able to slide the post out of the way.
Take the opportunity to inspect the condition of the post for water intrusion and to rewire the mast.

Manny

 

[kielboatsa]

thanks manny,

that gives me a better understanding of what is involved.

 

[David from Sandusky]

Our mast step

The aluminum step on our '77 h27 is bolted throug the pad, ceiling, and liner just to starboard and forward of the compression post. (Which is actually two pieces of teak forming the stbd side of the door from the main cabin to the head.) Although the fit is tight, you can take them all off without moving the compression post.

However, I agree with the previous poster that there is no need to remove the step to lead lines aft. I found two cheeck blocks that hug the mast just above the step, and turn the halyards from down to aft. An alternative would be to drop a properly shaped, cut-out 1/8 inch plaover the step, and under the foot of the mast. The plate can be shaped with holes to attach turning blocks as needed.

David
Lady Lillie

 

[kielboatsa]

Re: Our mast step

thanks david,

I was wondering if the 2 pieces of teak were actually the compression post. Although cheek blocks are an option, the mast step plate is actually easier for me since I can get the plate made for free and already have some bloocks I can attach to the plate. If I can remove the mast step without messing with the compression post, this should be quite easy to do.

 

[Randy Burns]

Well, I did qualify my statement with "I think", wrong in this case.

 

[Nelsonhow]

Did exactly what you want to do on my H-27.

I got marine grade aliminum plates from the welding shop around the corner.

I made an aluminum plate the size of the small bump up upon which the mast shoe fitting was fixed. (The mast shoe is the oval base screwed to the deck upon which the base of the mast sits). I then made another plate about 5 inches wider than the width of the mast shoe. I drilled a 1" hole in each corner of this plate. And then bent the ends of this smaller plate up in a vice. The result was a plate that was bent almost like a "U" with a hole in each corner for a turning block.

I removed the mast shoe.

I then put the larger flat plate on the deck in place held it with some 2 sided tape and drilled up from the cabin through the existing bolt holes. (PS my shoe was held in with only 3 screws too,) then put the 2nd plate on top with the bent flaps up and drilled through this second plate. This was all the holes line up with the holes in the deck and the holes in the bottom of the mast shoe. In the end I wound up adjusting the holes in the plate a little with a round file. I had one of my sons put a block of wood on top of the plates while I drilled in case the tape did not hold while I drilled. The wood block was to protect the feet. (Did not want to ihave to make a trip to the Hospital !!!!)

Once everyting was lined up I removed the tape and using a little expoy slurry made a paste and epoxied the larger plate to the deck. I then used langer screws and screwed it all back together. Mast Shoe, "U" shaped plate, Larger Plate back onto the deck.

'When I was done I hade a lace for 4 turning blocks at the base of the mast.

If you wanted to go all out I guess you could weld the two plates together but I thought that was a little overkill. I also drilled some holes in the bottom plate for the VHF and mast light cables.

I going out to the boat tomorrow to put the winter cover on. E-mail me at Nelsonhow@netscape.net if you want a pic of the final result and I'll send you a pick.
it to you.

HN