removing mast step bedded in 5200

[scottr]

Hi All,

I have a new-to-me 1975 Pearson 28 which was supposed to be launched today but the yard called and said the mast step is in backwards. The PO installed a new step (really, it wasn't me this time) and apparently put it in backwards. I'm pretty sure he bedded it in 5200. Since this isn't in a visible area, think I can get a hack saw blade or something similar and cut through the 5200 between the aluminum step and the glass? Thanks for any suggestions.

Cheers,

Scott

 

[Maine Sail]

Hi All,

I have a new-to-me 1975 Pearson 28 which was supposed to be launched today but the yard called and said the mast step is in backwards. The PO installed a new step (really, it wasn't me this time) and apparently put it in backwards. I'm pretty sure he bedded it in 5200. Since this isn't in a visible area, think I can get a hack saw blade or something similar and cut through the 5200 between the aluminum step and the glass? Thanks for any suggestions.

Cheers,

Scott

I think some of the Russian block nations have some old nuke war heads available. Seriously though, try De-Bond...

 

[Ross]

Music wire with hard wood handles will probably work better.

 

[kenn]

I have a new-to-me 1975 Pearson 28 which was supposed to be launched today but the yard called and said the mast step is in backwards. The PO installed a new step (really, it wasn't me this time) and apparently put it in backwards. I'm pretty sure he bedded it in 5200. Since this isn't in a visible area, think I can get a hack saw blade or something similar and cut through the 5200 between the aluminum step and the glass? Thanks for any suggestions.

Are YOU absolutely sure that the mast step is in backwards? It's hard to imagine someone doing that and being able to still sail it. r that such a move hasn't already damaged either the base or the mast bottom.

I haven't yet tried this myself, but 5200 might relax its grip a bit if the mast base is heated with a paint-stripping heat gun. Keep water handy in case of overheating or fire.

 

[Steve Dion]

DeBond it!

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/bro...oz-marine-formula-remover-167283/4,29255.html

 

[scottr]

definitely backwards

kenn,

Yeah, it's backwards. The PO pulled the boat replaced the step, then we bought it. We checked things out pretty well but never thought to see if the new step was in correctly. Lesson learned.

Thanks for the other suggestions. I like the piano wire idea. I might give that a try.

Thanks all!

 

[kloudie1]

Here is a ready made saw .. You can get these at the Big Box stores..
http://www.amazon.com/Pool-Tool-PVC-Wire-Saw/dp/B002XNLWJA
Ya may have to combine the de-bond with a wire saw .. especially if this stuff is pretty new.. Good luck !

 

[RON20406]

Hi All,
I have a new-to-me 1975 Pearson 28 which was supposed to be launched today but the yard called and said the mast step is in backwards. The PO installed a new step (really, it wasn't me this time) and apparently put it in backwards. I'm pretty sure he bedded it in 5200. Since this isn't in a visible area, think I can get a hack saw blade or something similar and cut through the 5200 between the aluminum step and the glass? Thanks for any suggestions.

Cheers,

Scott

Scott, forget about drastic engineering: sawing, blasting, piano wire . . .get Antibond 2015 from a marine chandlery. Spray around the mast step and let it soak in for a few minutes. Get a scraper and a hammer and break the bond between the deck and the fitting. You will be surprised how easy it works. I have removed ports, hatches, backing plates, everything. No problem. Best, Ron

 

[FourPoints]

Scott, forget about drastic engineering: sawing, blasting, piano wire . . .get Antibond 2015 from a marine chandlery. Spray around the mast step and let it soak in for a few minutes. Get a scraper and a hammer and break the bond between the deck and the fitting. You will be surprised how easy it works. I have removed ports, hatches, backing plates, everything. No problem. Best, Ron

be VERY carefull about trying something like this as either the debond or antibond products won't be able to easily penetrate under the middle of the mast step, so while they will soften the edge, they won't soften the 5200 under the center of the base, and too much prying could delaminate the gelcoat and fiberglass underneath the base.

5200 when cured has a tensile strength of roughly 700 pounds per square inch if memory serves, and your mast step base may still have 4-6 square inches of unsoftened 5200 remaining in the center after you use the debond or antibond around the edges, meaning you may have to apply over 4,000 lbs of force to pry up the mast step.

I would suggest a combination of the debond or antibond for the edges, and something like the wire saw mentioned above for the middle. Once the mast step is off, you can use the debond to soften, and then scrape the remaining 5200 off, without risking delaminating the gelcoat.

 

[Joe]

Would the Fein Multimaster work for a job like this. What do you think, Maine? I'm think of adding it to my tool box.

 

[Maine Sail]

Would the Fein Multimaster work for a job like this. What do you think, Maine? I'm think of adding it to my tool box.

The flush cut blade could work well for this but you still need to be careful that you have the thickness of the blade, in sealant, other wise it will dig into the fitting or deck. For most applications where the goop was squeezed out during installation it likely won't work very well and a guitar string, some heat and De-bond will probably work better..

The Fein MM is an amazing tool none the less. I own three brands of multi-tool so I can always have one as a sander and the third one, a HF unit, was bought on a whim and works about as well as a blown lightbulb...

 

[scottr]

thanks

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm going to talk to the yard today and see what they would charge to do it. Otherwise, I think I will try the de-bond along with the wire saw.

Best Wishes,

Scott