Anyone removed, or have instructions on removal of mast from H34 1984 model? Need to fix compression post problem, and understand rigging removal, BUT, how does mast attach to deck / insert / ? Thanx Marc msb@lawy-ers.com
Removing Mast from 1984 Hunter 34'
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Mast Removal
In adddition to the halyards (up to 4) there is usually a plug inside the mast just above the deck for the steaming and anchor light. Maybe a second plug if some addded spresder lights/ Ther is another connector for vhf antenna and more wiring if you have radar. Besides the wiring it's all about gravity and shrouds. The crane operator has likely done the job many times. The mast base sits in a "shoe".
In adddition to the halyards (up to 4) there is usually a plug inside the mast just above the deck for the steaming and anchor light. Maybe a second plug if some addded spresder lights/ Ther is another connector for vhf antenna and more wiring if you have radar. Besides the wiring it's all about gravity and shrouds. The crane operator has likely done the job many times. The mast base sits in a "shoe".
Mast removal
The base of the mast just goes over a spigot that is bolted to the deck. Mine has a plate at the base of the mast that the kicker is attached. Behind this is the cable connectors. Disconnect them all. Support the mast with a strop just below the upper spreader with the crane hook behind the mast. Disconnect the rigging , lift then lower the mast and walk the base of the mast towards the stern and keep the headsil furling tube at the side of the mast. I have heard that the post can be replaced without removing the mast. Just cut away the grp at the top of the post. Slacken off the rigging. Jack up the aluminum plate that is at the top of the post then replace tne post. Sounds possible but I've not done it.
The base of the mast just goes over a spigot that is bolted to the deck. Mine has a plate at the base of the mast that the kicker is attached. Behind this is the cable connectors. Disconnect them all. Support the mast with a strop just below the upper spreader with the crane hook behind the mast. Disconnect the rigging , lift then lower the mast and walk the base of the mast towards the stern and keep the headsil furling tube at the side of the mast. I have heard that the post can be replaced without removing the mast. Just cut away the grp at the top of the post. Slacken off the rigging. Jack up the aluminum plate that is at the top of the post then replace tne post. Sounds possible but I've not done it.
Here is how
This is an annual occurance for me- and one scheduled for two days form now. 1. take down and remove the sails 2. disconnect the vang and remove the boom. 3. pull the halyards out of the clutches and blocks and then wind them around the mast out of the way 4. loosen the forstay but do not remove the pin, loosen the backstays but do not disconnect 5. remove the lower shroud from the chainplate on each side and the short shroud on each side leaving only the long shroud from the upper spreader attached 6. move the boat up to the crane ( if you have to travel some distance on open water to the crane dont do 4&5 until you are at the crane) 7 attach your lifting line- I use a long dock line and I tie a bowline- (dont trust my splices THAT much!) The balance point is at the light on the mast so I loop it around the mast just above so when the line stretches it dosen't take the mast light off. Don't tie below this as you do not want a top heavy balance. I loop the line around and then you could tie a half hitch or I just loop the end that goes down over the end with the bowline and tie off the lower end down at the goosneck TIGHTLY and SECURELY. This is what holds the weight of the mast so do it carefully. You will have to get some one up the mast either with the crane or on a bosun's chair to do this. 8. Have the crane tighten up just to put slight tension on. With some one steadying the base- remove the forestay pin, the other two shrouds and the backstay. The crane operator should watch to make sure proper tension is applied. Have the crane operator lift the mast about 4-6 inches. 9. Have some one look under the mast while this lifting is taking place- I had about 12-15 inches of wire that was slack under the mast base (nothing "fastens" the mast to the base- it just slips over the shoe and is held there by the rigging. ) You will see the connectors for the electrical and the antenna- diconnect them and vow to install a mast base opening and cover for next year so no one has to have their fingers under the lifted mast. I used to put a block of wood under so the base could rest on something while the connections were disconnected. See Fred Ficcara's site for pictures of a base opening and cover Steady the base while the crane lifts the whole thing off the boat and onto land. Have some one hold the furler/forstay so that it does not get kinked 10. Breathe a sigh of relief I would suggest watching some others remove their masts first- usually there is lots of oppertunity to help other experienced removers at this time of year. Think it through as much as possible before you do it, dont be rushed and do be careful, a dropped mast can do a lot of damage to people and boats,Have some one around who has done this before
This is an annual occurance for me- and one scheduled for two days form now. 1. take down and remove the sails 2. disconnect the vang and remove the boom. 3. pull the halyards out of the clutches and blocks and then wind them around the mast out of the way 4. loosen the forstay but do not remove the pin, loosen the backstays but do not disconnect 5. remove the lower shroud from the chainplate on each side and the short shroud on each side leaving only the long shroud from the upper spreader attached 6. move the boat up to the crane ( if you have to travel some distance on open water to the crane dont do 4&5 until you are at the crane) 7 attach your lifting line- I use a long dock line and I tie a bowline- (dont trust my splices THAT much!) The balance point is at the light on the mast so I loop it around the mast just above so when the line stretches it dosen't take the mast light off. Don't tie below this as you do not want a top heavy balance. I loop the line around and then you could tie a half hitch or I just loop the end that goes down over the end with the bowline and tie off the lower end down at the goosneck TIGHTLY and SECURELY. This is what holds the weight of the mast so do it carefully. You will have to get some one up the mast either with the crane or on a bosun's chair to do this. 8. Have the crane tighten up just to put slight tension on. With some one steadying the base- remove the forestay pin, the other two shrouds and the backstay. The crane operator should watch to make sure proper tension is applied. Have the crane operator lift the mast about 4-6 inches. 9. Have some one look under the mast while this lifting is taking place- I had about 12-15 inches of wire that was slack under the mast base (nothing "fastens" the mast to the base- it just slips over the shoe and is held there by the rigging. ) You will see the connectors for the electrical and the antenna- diconnect them and vow to install a mast base opening and cover for next year so no one has to have their fingers under the lifted mast. I used to put a block of wood under so the base could rest on something while the connections were disconnected. See Fred Ficcara's site for pictures of a base opening and cover Steady the base while the crane lifts the whole thing off the boat and onto land. Have some one hold the furler/forstay so that it does not get kinked 10. Breathe a sigh of relief I would suggest watching some others remove their masts first- usually there is lots of oppertunity to help other experienced removers at this time of year. Think it through as much as possible before you do it, dont be rushed and do be careful, a dropped mast can do a lot of damage to people and boats,Have some one around who has done this before
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