I just purchased a '77 27' hunter and would like to remove the grab rails to refinish and apply a new anti-skid surface at the same time. However, they are not fastened from inside the cabin. It appears that they have a screw that goes from the rail into the core of the cabin roof. It is difficult to tell becaus the head of the screw appears to have a wooden plug over it. Has anyone run into this? I was going to drill out the plug to check it out.
- Status
You've got it.
John: You've got the idea. Remove the bungs and unscrew the screws. It would not be a bad idea to seal the holes with epoxy when you pull out the screws. Then you can just redrill the holes when you replace the rails.
John: You've got the idea. Remove the bungs and unscrew the screws. It would not be a bad idea to seal the holes with epoxy when you pull out the screws. Then you can just redrill the holes when you replace the rails.
I am jealous of the warm CA
Steve, I went to get on the boat today (which is currenly located about 2 hrs from my home. The tarp was unfortunately weighted with snow, ice and water. I stood and reflected for about 15 minutes and drove home...
Steve, I went to get on the boat today (which is currenly located about 2 hrs from my home. The tarp was unfortunately weighted with snow, ice and water. I stood and reflected for about 15 minutes and drove home...
Where do you live?
John: I actually live in Carson City, NV. We are about 15 miles east of Lake Tahoe. Our boat is about 3 hrs. away. There was snow and rain this weekend so no boating. We have had excepetionally good weather this winter but we are lacking on the rain and snow fall. Only have about 60-75% of normal in most places. We do not depend on the fresh water for sailing because we are in a tidal area. PS: I was born in Quincy, MA. (probably not too far from your home).
John: I actually live in Carson City, NV. We are about 15 miles east of Lake Tahoe. Our boat is about 3 hrs. away. There was snow and rain this weekend so no boating. We have had excepetionally good weather this winter but we are lacking on the rain and snow fall. Only have about 60-75% of normal in most places. We do not depend on the fresh water for sailing because we are in a tidal area. PS: I was born in Quincy, MA. (probably not too far from your home).
Steve...the boat is located right next to
Mass Maritime academy in Buzzard's Bay. We live in Lowell, MA during the winter (thus the 2 hour trip), but summer in Yarmouth, cape cod in Lewis Bay. Sailing is great here with the islands as destinations. I have a Quincy link...I am a part-time professor at Eastern Nazarene College in Quincy.
Mass Maritime academy in Buzzard's Bay. We live in Lowell, MA during the winter (thus the 2 hour trip), but summer in Yarmouth, cape cod in Lewis Bay. Sailing is great here with the islands as destinations. I have a Quincy link...I am a part-time professor at Eastern Nazarene College in Quincy.
Waxing nostalgic.
OK Steve and John, now that we settled that back to the handrails.
Steve is correct as usual, the handrails have bungs to be removed and the long stainless screws(philips) just go into the core. A couple of more points need to be made. Use caution removing the bungs or you will damage the rail. They make a special bit for the job but I found that unnecessary. Just use a smaller bit than the bung. Don't worry about the screw head, you won't hurt the hard stainless. With an awl it should pop right out, they are not glued(if original). When reinstalling(after several coats of varnish or oil) drill the holes out to 3/8" or larger. Use a collar on the bit to limit the depth to 1.5" just to be safe. Fill the hole with a mix of epoxy and sawdust then redrill a pilot hole of about 3/16". You might consider using some thru-bolts, one on each end for added strength. A large stainless washer inside really doesn't look that bad. Now you can insert the new bungs, slice them off flush, and finish. Not a fun project. See Jamestown Distributors(Newport) for the tools and bungs.
OK Steve and John, now that we settled that back to the handrails.
Steve is correct as usual, the handrails have bungs to be removed and the long stainless screws(philips) just go into the core. A couple of more points need to be made. Use caution removing the bungs or you will damage the rail. They make a special bit for the job but I found that unnecessary. Just use a smaller bit than the bung. Don't worry about the screw head, you won't hurt the hard stainless. With an awl it should pop right out, they are not glued(if original). When reinstalling(after several coats of varnish or oil) drill the holes out to 3/8" or larger. Use a collar on the bit to limit the depth to 1.5" just to be safe. Fill the hole with a mix of epoxy and sawdust then redrill a pilot hole of about 3/16". You might consider using some thru-bolts, one on each end for added strength. A large stainless washer inside really doesn't look that bad. Now you can insert the new bungs, slice them off flush, and finish. Not a fun project. See Jamestown Distributors(Newport) for the tools and bungs.- Status