I have some 1/4" Warpspeed line on my furler that I need to remove some line from. It's woven very tight. Does anyone have any tips to remove the core? Any decent fid sets that aren't $50+?
Removing Dyneema Core
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
- Start date
I can't visualize using a fid to do that job. I would think a pair of needle nose pliers and an awl (or ice pick, or small marlinspike like you'd find on a sailors knife. Use the spike to pry the strands loose on the end after removing binding or melted whipping. once you get enough room to snare the core end with the pliers (even better might be some locking type needle nose pliers)..... start milking the cover back until you expose enough core to tie it to something firmly anchored. Once the core is secure firmly, you can stretch out the line and start working it out. Milk it down a foot or two, till it gets bunched up... them push the bunched up cover on down the length of the line.
You might have to unravel the cover to get enough core exposed, but that's how it'll work.
You might have to unravel the cover to get enough core exposed, but that's how it'll work.
No, it's just more expensive than the average line, it's racing line. Look it up. However, the small diameter might (1/4 cover, maybe 5/32 core) Larger diameter rope is much easier to work with. Principal is the same though... just find some basic tools (like I have mentioned) that fit the tiny spaces.
Warp speed sounds like overkill for a furling line. I use 5/16 Sta Set on my C30 and I used the same on my Oday 25. I stripped about 10’ of core on the Oday’s furling line. It was enough to still have several wraps of cored line wrapped around the drum when the sail was partially furled so the sail was held by with the lines full strength.
This was with a Furlex 100 furler.
Anyway, I’ve de cored line using @Joe,s method.
This was with a Furlex 100 furler.
Anyway, I’ve de cored line using @Joe,s method.
The strength of the line lies in the core, not the cover. There should be at least one cored wrap around the drum when the sail is reefed.
The core needs to be tapered. If not, the cover will wear and weaken at the point where the core ends.
A ¼"line should not need to have its core removed on 25' boat. There should be plenty of line. The decored furling lines I have seen have been over sized, around ⅜". This allows for a better grip on the line when adjusting the sail.
The core needs to be tapered. If not, the cover will wear and weaken at the point where the core ends.
A ¼"line should not need to have its core removed on 25' boat. There should be plenty of line. The decored furling lines I have seen have been over sized, around ⅜". This allows for a better grip on the line when adjusting the sail.
^^ This. For example, I use de-cored 5/16-Stayset on my jib and reacher furlers on my F-24. Pleanty stronger enough, and smaller line would be harder to hold and not fit the jammers or cam cleats as well.
There's too much bulk on the spool with the genoa fully out. Doesn't matter how much or little tension is on the line. We discussed this topic at the beginning of the winter. I added the fairlead that was suggested over the swivel block I had. Mast is not up. Boat originally had 5/16 with the first 10-15' decored. Same issue
What about splicing my 1/4" line to 1/8" Dyneema for the first 10' or so? It eliminates the question of whether or not the core has enough strength
What about splicing my 1/4" line to 1/8" Dyneema for the first 10' or so? It eliminates the question of whether or not the core has enough strength
A simpler method, since splicing DB to Dyneema is complex, is to just pull a polyester cover over the Dyneema where ever you will handle or cleat it. Sew the dyneema to the polyester core-only and use the polyester core to pull the Dyneema through the cover. Then bury the cover end in the Dyneema. Stitch to lock. (you throw the polyester core away)
The Warpspeed line has a Dyneema core so I figured that would be a Dyneema to Dyneema splice unless you consider the Warpspeed as double braid
Yup, I read it wrong. You will have to match the core size, which is slightly larger than 1/8-inch.
Go for it, but splicing 1/8-inch line isn't that much fun. Or just strip the cover. You should be able to if you much the cover up enough. Then use a large dulled needle.