Removing Deck Hardware

[robert19954]

When removing deck hardware, afterwords I know that you clean the area and remove debris. Once that is done do you put down or attach gaskets when replacing the hardware or some kind of seal, or do you just re-attach the hardware directly to the deck.

I have heard some discuss calking and some don't recommend it when re-attaching the hardware. Any answers?

Thanks,

Robert

 

[cb32863]

Check out Maine Sail's thread on re-bedding with Butyl Tape. Its the next project on my list that I am starting this week for my 25. Here is a link to the thread. Do NOT use silicone. You have to put something underneath otherwise, you will leak like crazy. You could use Life Caulk I suppose but I have not read anything on the success rate of it though it probably would work nicely as I used it to seal up my chain plate deck penetrations and thru-hulls. Oh, and clean with acetone and be sure there is no core rot.

 

[robert19954]

Thank you so much for the information. Someone had used silicone around some of the hardware. I will have to remove each piece from the deck, scrape the silicone off and clean the deck protion really well, re-attach the hardware using Maine Sail's technique. Very helpful by the way. I think the leaks may come from the silicone which harmed the coating around the hardware.

By the way, what is the best tool to possibly open the stern drain. And when sailing do you plug your drain?

Thank you,
Robert Sylvester

 

[Joe11688]

When removing deck hardware, afterwords I know that you clean the area and remove debris. Once that is done do you put down or attach gaskets when replacing the hardware or some kind of seal, or do you just re-attach the hardware directly to the deck.

I have heard some discuss caulking and some don't recommend it when re-attaching the hardware. Any answers?

Thanks,

Robert

For metal deck hardware I like to use Butyl tape or 3-M 4000 or 4200. I now countersink the bolt holes in the fiberglass a little. For toe rails or the Teak mount on my traveler where I need the adhesion, I'll use 3-M 4200.

For plastics such as hatches, deck plates and and port lights, I was using Dow Corning 795 and I've quit using it. DC 795 and Sika Flex 195 are just too messy to work with. I now use DAP Silicone Rubber Adhesive Caulking because it adheres well to the plastics. Not only that but it contains no chemicals which can have an adverse effect on plastics.

I used DAP a couple of weeks ago to adhere a lexan lens in my forward hatch cover and it stuck to it beautiful. I had my doubts about it until I talked to a friend of mine who used DAP to adhere a lens to his plastic forward hatch cover after he accidently broke the one that was in it. I would also use this caulking to adhere port lights.
Last year I used the Butyl Tape to bed my mast tabernacle and my bow stem chainplate and it's worked like a champ.