I have an O'Day 302 with a deck-stepped mast. The PO cut all the wires going to the mast lights and vhf coax at the base of the compression post and left the cut ends lying in the bilge for god-knows how long. I would like to replace the wiring without removing the mast and I think the way to do it is move the compression post out of the way and make splices where the wires penetrate the deck. My mast has no inspection plate to remove so I have no acces to the wires from above the deck. Has anyone moved their compression post before with the mast still in place? I plan to mark the position of the rigging turnbuckles with tape and then loosen them to relieve pressure on the post. Then I can unbolt the post and slide it slightly out of the way, hopefully enough to access the wiring where they come through the deck. The mast will be loose and free to wobble, but won't wobble too far. Does this sound doable? Thanks, Dave
Removing Compression Post
- Thread starter Dave C.20477
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I have an O'Day 302 with a deck-stepped mast. The PO cut all the wires going to the mast lights and vhf coax at the base of the compression post and left the cut ends lying in the bilge for god-knows how long. I would like to replace the wiring without removing the mast and I think the way to do it is move the compression post out of the way and make splices where the wires penetrate the deck. My mast has no inspection plate to remove so I have no acces to the wires from above the deck. Has anyone moved their compression post before with the mast still in place? I plan to mark the position of the rigging turnbuckles with tape and then loosen them to relieve pressure on the post. Then I can unbolt the post and slide it slightly out of the way, hopefully enough to access the wiring where they come through the deck. The mast will be loose and free to wobble, but won't wobble too far. Does this sound doable? Thanks, Dave
Put a couple of two by fours on either side of the
post before you remove it. Maybe a piece of plywood on top of the 2x4 to spread the load. Drive a wedge under each 2x4 to make tension, which will lift the cabin top and make slack to remove the post, and you should be fine. Pay attention to how the cabin is constructed. You don't want to drive a 2x4 through the cabin top. If you have access to some old fashioned house jacks (screw jacks)they would be ideal, but be careful not to use too much pressure.
post before you remove it. Maybe a piece of plywood on top of the 2x4 to spread the load. Drive a wedge under each 2x4 to make tension, which will lift the cabin top and make slack to remove the post, and you should be fine. Pay attention to how the cabin is constructed. You don't want to drive a 2x4 through the cabin top. If you have access to some old fashioned house jacks (screw jacks)they would be ideal, but be careful not to use too much pressure.
Put a couple of two by fours on either side of the
post before you remove it. Maybe a piece of plywood on top of the 2x4 to spread the load. Drive a wedge under each 2x4 to make tension, which will lift the cabin top and make slack to remove the post, and you should be fine. Pay attention to how the cabin is constructed. You don't want to drive a 2x4 through the cabin top. If you have access to some old fashioned house jacks (screw jacks)they would be ideal, but be careful not to use too much pressure.
post before you remove it. Maybe a piece of plywood on top of the 2x4 to spread the load. Drive a wedge under each 2x4 to make tension, which will lift the cabin top and make slack to remove the post, and you should be fine. Pay attention to how the cabin is constructed. You don't want to drive a 2x4 through the cabin top. If you have access to some old fashioned house jacks (screw jacks)they would be ideal, but be careful not to use too much pressure.
Achives
Check the photo archives, a guy did this project on a Hunter 31 and took excellent pictures step by step following the same proceedure that Fred outlines.
Check the photo archives, a guy did this project on a Hunter 31 and took excellent pictures step by step following the same proceedure that Fred outlines.
Achives
Check the photo archives, a guy did this project on a Hunter 31 and took excellent pictures step by step following the same proceedure that Fred outlines.
Check the photo archives, a guy did this project on a Hunter 31 and took excellent pictures step by step following the same proceedure that Fred outlines.
Splicing the VHF cable - Good Luck!
I'm afraid to say that instructions I have seen say NOT to try to splice the VHF cable. The only way that I know of is to get a male and female connector at Radio Shack. Try to connect them that way and that may help.
I'm afraid to say that instructions I have seen say NOT to try to splice the VHF cable. The only way that I know of is to get a male and female connector at Radio Shack. Try to connect them that way and that may help.
Splicing the VHF cable - Good Luck!
I'm afraid to say that instructions I have seen say NOT to try to splice the VHF cable. The only way that I know of is to get a male and female connector at Radio Shack. Try to connect them that way and that may help.
I'm afraid to say that instructions I have seen say NOT to try to splice the VHF cable. The only way that I know of is to get a male and female connector at Radio Shack. Try to connect them that way and that may help.
Risky
That sounds more than a little bit risky to me. Maybe I don't fully grasp the situation, but if the PO could get to the wires to cut them, seems like you should be able to get to them to fix them. Beyond that, I think I would consider cutting an inspection hole in the mast base, before I would try raising the mast and moving the compression post. IF you do it this way, and IF it actually works without some major event, what are you going to do it you ever need to replace/repair some of this wiring in the future. Same procedure over again. A fairly small inspection hole in the base of the mast should allow you to get to the wiring. And as previous poster said, splicing the VHF co ax is not a recommended procedure.
That sounds more than a little bit risky to me. Maybe I don't fully grasp the situation, but if the PO could get to the wires to cut them, seems like you should be able to get to them to fix them. Beyond that, I think I would consider cutting an inspection hole in the mast base, before I would try raising the mast and moving the compression post. IF you do it this way, and IF it actually works without some major event, what are you going to do it you ever need to replace/repair some of this wiring in the future. Same procedure over again. A fairly small inspection hole in the base of the mast should allow you to get to the wiring. And as previous poster said, splicing the VHF co ax is not a recommended procedure.
Risky
That sounds more than a little bit risky to me. Maybe I don't fully grasp the situation, but if the PO could get to the wires to cut them, seems like you should be able to get to them to fix them. Beyond that, I think I would consider cutting an inspection hole in the mast base, before I would try raising the mast and moving the compression post. IF you do it this way, and IF it actually works without some major event, what are you going to do it you ever need to replace/repair some of this wiring in the future. Same procedure over again. A fairly small inspection hole in the base of the mast should allow you to get to the wiring. And as previous poster said, splicing the VHF co ax is not a recommended procedure.
That sounds more than a little bit risky to me. Maybe I don't fully grasp the situation, but if the PO could get to the wires to cut them, seems like you should be able to get to them to fix them. Beyond that, I think I would consider cutting an inspection hole in the mast base, before I would try raising the mast and moving the compression post. IF you do it this way, and IF it actually works without some major event, what are you going to do it you ever need to replace/repair some of this wiring in the future. Same procedure over again. A fairly small inspection hole in the base of the mast should allow you to get to the wiring. And as previous poster said, splicing the VHF co ax is not a recommended procedure.
Thanks for the responses...
I hadn't thought about bracing the deck. Hmmm, it might be the right thing to do for what I intend. But Nice n Easy has me a little worried. I was hoping any and all responses were going to be slam-dunk, no problems, btdt, it's easy, here's how kind of thing. NnE, what might be risky about it? I'm pretty nervous about the whole idea to begin, so I'm really interested in what you think. I guess my worry is having the mast loose, but I'm thinking it will still be held in place with the rigging, just a little relaxed. And the boat is on the hard right now, so it won't be bobbling around in the water. The PO cut the wires at the base of the compression post. I can only get to the ends which were lying in bilge water (possibly for years)and are completely corroded. I'm hoping the water didn't wick all the way up the wires and that there is still some good wire inside the compression post where I can splice new stuff to. As for the coax, I plan to use 259 connectors, tinned and soldered. Shouldn't be a problem if the coax is still good. And if the repairs are done properly, then it should never need to be addressed again. Unless, of course, another owner cuts the wires again. (Why would someone do that in the first place???) I couldn't find the photo forum. Any links would be appreciated. Thanks again, Dave
I hadn't thought about bracing the deck. Hmmm, it might be the right thing to do for what I intend. But Nice n Easy has me a little worried. I was hoping any and all responses were going to be slam-dunk, no problems, btdt, it's easy, here's how kind of thing. NnE, what might be risky about it? I'm pretty nervous about the whole idea to begin, so I'm really interested in what you think. I guess my worry is having the mast loose, but I'm thinking it will still be held in place with the rigging, just a little relaxed. And the boat is on the hard right now, so it won't be bobbling around in the water. The PO cut the wires at the base of the compression post. I can only get to the ends which were lying in bilge water (possibly for years)and are completely corroded. I'm hoping the water didn't wick all the way up the wires and that there is still some good wire inside the compression post where I can splice new stuff to. As for the coax, I plan to use 259 connectors, tinned and soldered. Shouldn't be a problem if the coax is still good. And if the repairs are done properly, then it should never need to be addressed again. Unless, of course, another owner cuts the wires again. (Why would someone do that in the first place???) I couldn't find the photo forum. Any links would be appreciated. Thanks again, Dave
Thanks for the responses...
I hadn't thought about bracing the deck. Hmmm, it might be the right thing to do for what I intend. But Nice n Easy has me a little worried. I was hoping any and all responses were going to be slam-dunk, no problems, btdt, it's easy, here's how kind of thing. NnE, what might be risky about it? I'm pretty nervous about the whole idea to begin, so I'm really interested in what you think. I guess my worry is having the mast loose, but I'm thinking it will still be held in place with the rigging, just a little relaxed. And the boat is on the hard right now, so it won't be bobbling around in the water. The PO cut the wires at the base of the compression post. I can only get to the ends which were lying in bilge water (possibly for years)and are completely corroded. I'm hoping the water didn't wick all the way up the wires and that there is still some good wire inside the compression post where I can splice new stuff to. As for the coax, I plan to use 259 connectors, tinned and soldered. Shouldn't be a problem if the coax is still good. And if the repairs are done properly, then it should never need to be addressed again. Unless, of course, another owner cuts the wires again. (Why would someone do that in the first place???) I couldn't find the photo forum. Any links would be appreciated. Thanks again, Dave
I hadn't thought about bracing the deck. Hmmm, it might be the right thing to do for what I intend. But Nice n Easy has me a little worried. I was hoping any and all responses were going to be slam-dunk, no problems, btdt, it's easy, here's how kind of thing. NnE, what might be risky about it? I'm pretty nervous about the whole idea to begin, so I'm really interested in what you think. I guess my worry is having the mast loose, but I'm thinking it will still be held in place with the rigging, just a little relaxed. And the boat is on the hard right now, so it won't be bobbling around in the water. The PO cut the wires at the base of the compression post. I can only get to the ends which were lying in bilge water (possibly for years)and are completely corroded. I'm hoping the water didn't wick all the way up the wires and that there is still some good wire inside the compression post where I can splice new stuff to. As for the coax, I plan to use 259 connectors, tinned and soldered. Shouldn't be a problem if the coax is still good. And if the repairs are done properly, then it should never need to be addressed again. Unless, of course, another owner cuts the wires again. (Why would someone do that in the first place???) I couldn't find the photo forum. Any links would be appreciated. Thanks again, Dave
Photo in Archive
Dave I don't know how to set up a link for you to the photo archive but I will direct you, go to archive page, click on Hunter 31, type in "compression post" the post is by Patrick Lombard dated 4/28/05 , hope you can find it.
Dave I don't know how to set up a link for you to the photo archive but I will direct you, go to archive page, click on Hunter 31, type in "compression post" the post is by Patrick Lombard dated 4/28/05 , hope you can find it.
Photo in Archive
Dave I don't know how to set up a link for you to the photo archive but I will direct you, go to archive page, click on Hunter 31, type in "compression post" the post is by Patrick Lombard dated 4/28/05 , hope you can find it.
Dave I don't know how to set up a link for you to the photo archive but I will direct you, go to archive page, click on Hunter 31, type in "compression post" the post is by Patrick Lombard dated 4/28/05 , hope you can find it.
Risks
In the first place, you have to have something at the base, which will hold the weight, without being damaged. If you can get to the actual bottom of the boat, might be OK here. Floor, not sure I would trust. Same goes for the ceiling, but maybe moreso. Here you are going to be jacking up the mast, through a cored deck. Don't know what the core material is, but either foam, balsa or plywood. You certainly need to spread the load out as much as possible, both top and bottom. I would think that on a 30 footer, you have two to three hundred pounds to lift. And if you get the stays loosened up the right amount you should be fine, but not loose enough and PING, off goes a turnbuckle or chain plate. The thing is that while each of these can be dealt with, you have at least three possibilities for something to go wrong. I'm sure you have read Murphy's law. But maybe I am just paranoid. How bout cutting an access hole in the bottom of the compression post. Wouldn't have to be very big to reach in and snag the wiring. An interesting proposition all around. Keep us posted. By the way, since you are going to this much work, I would go ahead and re run all the wiring. I take great pains to eliminate any splices that are not absolutely necessary. And particularly a VHF co ax.
In the first place, you have to have something at the base, which will hold the weight, without being damaged. If you can get to the actual bottom of the boat, might be OK here. Floor, not sure I would trust. Same goes for the ceiling, but maybe moreso. Here you are going to be jacking up the mast, through a cored deck. Don't know what the core material is, but either foam, balsa or plywood. You certainly need to spread the load out as much as possible, both top and bottom. I would think that on a 30 footer, you have two to three hundred pounds to lift. And if you get the stays loosened up the right amount you should be fine, but not loose enough and PING, off goes a turnbuckle or chain plate. The thing is that while each of these can be dealt with, you have at least three possibilities for something to go wrong. I'm sure you have read Murphy's law. But maybe I am just paranoid. How bout cutting an access hole in the bottom of the compression post. Wouldn't have to be very big to reach in and snag the wiring. An interesting proposition all around. Keep us posted. By the way, since you are going to this much work, I would go ahead and re run all the wiring. I take great pains to eliminate any splices that are not absolutely necessary. And particularly a VHF co ax.
Risks
In the first place, you have to have something at the base, which will hold the weight, without being damaged. If you can get to the actual bottom of the boat, might be OK here. Floor, not sure I would trust. Same goes for the ceiling, but maybe moreso. Here you are going to be jacking up the mast, through a cored deck. Don't know what the core material is, but either foam, balsa or plywood. You certainly need to spread the load out as much as possible, both top and bottom. I would think that on a 30 footer, you have two to three hundred pounds to lift. And if you get the stays loosened up the right amount you should be fine, but not loose enough and PING, off goes a turnbuckle or chain plate. The thing is that while each of these can be dealt with, you have at least three possibilities for something to go wrong. I'm sure you have read Murphy's law. But maybe I am just paranoid. How bout cutting an access hole in the bottom of the compression post. Wouldn't have to be very big to reach in and snag the wiring. An interesting proposition all around. Keep us posted. By the way, since you are going to this much work, I would go ahead and re run all the wiring. I take great pains to eliminate any splices that are not absolutely necessary. And particularly a VHF co ax.
In the first place, you have to have something at the base, which will hold the weight, without being damaged. If you can get to the actual bottom of the boat, might be OK here. Floor, not sure I would trust. Same goes for the ceiling, but maybe moreso. Here you are going to be jacking up the mast, through a cored deck. Don't know what the core material is, but either foam, balsa or plywood. You certainly need to spread the load out as much as possible, both top and bottom. I would think that on a 30 footer, you have two to three hundred pounds to lift. And if you get the stays loosened up the right amount you should be fine, but not loose enough and PING, off goes a turnbuckle or chain plate. The thing is that while each of these can be dealt with, you have at least three possibilities for something to go wrong. I'm sure you have read Murphy's law. But maybe I am just paranoid. How bout cutting an access hole in the bottom of the compression post. Wouldn't have to be very big to reach in and snag the wiring. An interesting proposition all around. Keep us posted. By the way, since you are going to this much work, I would go ahead and re run all the wiring. I take great pains to eliminate any splices that are not absolutely necessary. And particularly a VHF co ax.
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