Removing compression post on 1978 Oday 25

[Mad Dog]

Hey guys,

So I think I will be replacing my bulkheads this winter but I have not been able to figure out how to remove the compression post to get at the port bulkhead. Does the post need to be removed? It appears that it does. The bottom of the post looks like it's glassed in just forward of the cb trunk. Do I need to cut through this glass to get the post out? Yikes! Or am I missing something obvious? I've searched the archives but can't find an answer to this. If it has been answered, please excuse my ignorance and point me in the right direction. Thanks.

Matt

 

[Erieau]

Matt,
After removing the screws holding the post to the port bulkhead, I was able to gingerly hammer the top of the post towards aft. Other guys have jacked up the ceiling liner first, but my way wasn't too bad. The post then just lifted out of the 'glassed "pocket." The bottom of the post was slightly rotted, just enough to release it from the glass.
To re-install, I squirted a bunch of LifeCalk into the bottom pocket and squished the post back down in.
So to answer your question, I didn't have to cut the fibreglass to get the post out, but I did dress it up some before putting the post back in.

Joe

 

[emergpa1]

Hi mad dog,
To replace the bulkheads you will need to remove the compression post. On this forum I'm sure if you research remove bulkheads and compression post you're going to find a lot of information. Basically though it is a fairly straightforward task, and you will find that you need to follow a few certain basic steps. It will be important to jack up the area at the compression post with a jack and some 2 x 4 blocks. Once you do that you will begin to remove the wood screws and perhaps with an angle grinder or even a hammer and wood chisel cut through any fiberglass tabbing that may be holding your bulkheads and or compression post in place. You will notice, at least on My O'day 26, that removing the bulkheads also requires disassembling your Port hanging locker, salon shelving, and Starbord head sink cabinet. By the time you get all of that done it seems logical to remove the other few components that are still in your way and replace the carpet-cabin liner, and refinish all of your cabinet work. By then your thinking, what the hey, I may as well replace my fixed and opening ports. You will also begin to think heck my cabin lights sure are ugly and tarnished and those wires are corroding.

 

[Gaf]

Hi Matt,
I may have missed this, but I am quite sure that before you remove your compression you will want to drop your mast. I know I did when I changed my bulkheads. You may also want to do a good inspection of the deck in the area where the chain plates go through the deck for water intrusion. If you check back in the O'day owners forums you will find alot on postings and information of this subject. At any rate good luck, this is a very doable project.

 

[Mad Dog]

Thanks, guys, for all the advice. Yes, this winter the rig comes down so I can get some maintenance done.

On the bulkheads, I've researched the archives and think I have the procedure down. It seems pretty straightforward. But every post just says "remove the compression post and the bulkhead will slide out easily." Seems easier said than done with all that glass at the bottom of the post! I hope it's just a glass pocket as someone else said.

Keith - you are spot on. This all started because I wanted to change out the standing rigging. Gotta take the rig down for that. Well, as long as the mast is down, might as well replace the chain plates. And let's look at those bulkheads.....and yes the port lights too....and...and...and... Haha and I have some new xenon cabin lights too.

 

[RichBone]

Don't forget the deck core under the tabernacle. That usually goes with the water intrusion at the chainplates

 

[Ritdog]

I hate to be a wet blanket, but you DO NOT have to take out the post to take out the bulkhead. I have a 1977 25, and needed to change out the bulkhead because the chainplates had leaked through the deck, delaminating the bulkhead.

The bulkhead is attached top, bottom, and post side with screws - top and botton into the FG headliner and sole , the right side (facing forward) into the post . Port side was tabbed in two sections into the hull.

You will have to take out the head (we have a portapotty, screwed in place - we pump out) , the head platform, the hanging closet behind that.

Undo the screws, then take a sawzall with a LONG ("8-12" ) blade, find a spot that allows the blade to slip through, and with a slight bend, pushing against the hull, just saw the tabbing , holding the blade as parallel to the hull as possible. Very easy.

I did this from inside the head space with my wife holding the hull liner out of the way on the other side.

Once free, you will have to kick the bottom of the panel out forward a little, then rotate it slightly from the top - I had to put the top into the hatch space area to get it out.

Installation is the reverse: put the top into the hatch space, manuever the bottom in; once in, you might have to kick the bottom to snap it in place. Rescrew.

It can be done......

I HIGHLY suggest that you keep the old bulkhead as close to the original as possible when cutting, using it for a template.

We painted the head side with beige paint, ancd covered the salon side with Volkswagon convertable top fabric glued with contact cement, off the boat - kind of vinyl-ly , but it looks great, is easy to wash if needed, and wears well.

Installation of the chain plates involved running the sawzall blade DOWN the chainplate slot to create a smooth slot for the plate. Just a ZAP with the saw smoothed it out.

 

[Mad Dog]

Ritdog,

Very cool. Thanks for the tip. Looking at the groove in the headliner, I thought the bulkhead could only move laterally, and so require the post to come out. Thanks for giving me another option. Okay, I can do this!

 

[cb32863]

Ritdog,

Very cool. Thanks for the tip. Looking at the groove in the headliner, I thought the bulkhead could only move laterally, and so require the post to come out. Thanks for giving me another option. Okay, I can do this!

Yes you can. I did this job this past winter/spring on my 1977. Here are links to my blog on that project.

Part 1.

Part 2.

Part 3.

I left my compression post in. Though, replacing that is now going to be this off season's project along with re-coring the deck where the mast plate and halyard blocks are. Good luck with your project!

PS: I also talked to Rudy over at D & R today about my compression post and he said that as long as the mast is down and there is no compressive force on the post, you just need to removed the screws from that bulkhead and tap out the post to remove it. Mine does not have a glassed in pocket either. FWIW.