I have visible steel chainplates, where I can see one side of them. Some of their paint is bubbling and I want to remove the chainplates, sand them down and inspect for further damage. The's one big chainplate aft with two shrouds attached, and a smaller one 2 ft forward with one shroud attached. It's a keel stepped mast. I figure there are 3 options: 1. Since it's keel stepped, I could remove all the chainplates at the same time, and let the deck handle the small lateral loads associated with keeping the unsupported mast upright. 2. I could do the big chainplates first, then smaller ones after the big ones are re-installed. 3. I could jury rig some sort of mast support before removing any chainplates. My own gut feel is to go with option 2. Any thoughts? Thanks, Craig
Removing Chainplates
- Thread starter Craig522
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Bubbling chain plate paint? What kind of boat did
you say this was? Rust causes paint to bubble when coated over metal. But chain plates are stainless and don't do that at deck level where oxygen is available. The places to worry are against hidden parts of the hull that are prone to leakage. Hunters don't have this problem. What kinda boat did you say,,,,,? Paint over stainless?? That's not good.
you say this was? Rust causes paint to bubble when coated over metal. But chain plates are stainless and don't do that at deck level where oxygen is available. The places to worry are against hidden parts of the hull that are prone to leakage. Hunters don't have this problem. What kinda boat did you say,,,,,? Paint over stainless?? That's not good.
Yup, painted stainless is bad
Fred, It's a Pearson 10M. All the chainplates are stainless and are visible inside the cabin. The big chainplate is unpainted and the visible side looks good. The small one is painted. The bubbling paint is localized around the bolt holes, so I figured it was from the bolts or chainplates. Either way I agree they shouldn't be painted, and the painting is likely what caused the oxygen-deprivation and (hopefully just surface) corrosion. Any advice about how to ensure the mast stays standing while the chainplates are out? Craig
Fred, It's a Pearson 10M. All the chainplates are stainless and are visible inside the cabin. The big chainplate is unpainted and the visible side looks good. The small one is painted. The bubbling paint is localized around the bolt holes, so I figured it was from the bolts or chainplates. Either way I agree they shouldn't be painted, and the painting is likely what caused the oxygen-deprivation and (hopefully just surface) corrosion. Any advice about how to ensure the mast stays standing while the chainplates are out? Craig
use your halyards to stabilize
I would only remove one chainplate at a time. Run at least 2 halyards to the side where you will be removing the chainplate (3 halyards if you have them because your lines are not as strong as the steel cable/rod). It only takes a few moments to make it secure, then proceed to loosen the turnbuckles and remove the shrouds. Good luck and be safe. Capt Jim
I would only remove one chainplate at a time. Run at least 2 halyards to the side where you will be removing the chainplate (3 halyards if you have them because your lines are not as strong as the steel cable/rod). It only takes a few moments to make it secure, then proceed to loosen the turnbuckles and remove the shrouds. Good luck and be safe. Capt Jim
Craig, you have a worthwhile project.
Securing the mast should be a snap. Did I say that? Sorry. I meant it should be easy. I would just do one side at a time and use a halyard as a preventer. If for some reason you have to do all of them at the same time, well, you have two halyards. That'll do it, even in a rolley anchorage. Are you taking pictures? This sounds like a cool repair for the project forum.
Securing the mast should be a snap. Did I say that? Sorry. I meant it should be easy. I would just do one side at a time and use a halyard as a preventer. If for some reason you have to do all of them at the same time, well, you have two halyards. That'll do it, even in a rolley anchorage. Are you taking pictures? This sounds like a cool repair for the project forum.
I agree with number 2
One at a time is the way to go! I did this on my Cheoy Lee Clipper for the same reason. What I found were chain plates with zero problems. I did find the bolts that where installed at the yard where a mix of stainless and galvanized. The galvanized bolts where almost gone ie rusted from the inside out. Stainless bolts where fine but I replaced all bolts and reinstalled the chain plates. After checking the first three and finding no deteration only bolts where replaced. Boat was 20 years old.
One at a time is the way to go! I did this on my Cheoy Lee Clipper for the same reason. What I found were chain plates with zero problems. I did find the bolts that where installed at the yard where a mix of stainless and galvanized. The galvanized bolts where almost gone ie rusted from the inside out. Stainless bolts where fine but I replaced all bolts and reinstalled the chain plates. After checking the first three and finding no deteration only bolts where replaced. Boat was 20 years old.
I had a similar predicament...here's what I did
Bear in mind that the work I'm describing here was done on an inland freshwater lake (read: not a lot of heavy weather at the marina). I took some comfort in the cabin top of our keel stepped mast reducing the overall sway of the mast, but I did secure lines to the top of the mast fore and aft to deal with the respective chainplates. This also allowed me to have some work done to the masthead. I bought myself two weeks of work with lines secured as described. I am about to do the same for the side stays, but will make it a weekend job. This is a long-winded way of saying that I also vote for #2. Good luck with your venture.
Bear in mind that the work I'm describing here was done on an inland freshwater lake (read: not a lot of heavy weather at the marina). I took some comfort in the cabin top of our keel stepped mast reducing the overall sway of the mast, but I did secure lines to the top of the mast fore and aft to deal with the respective chainplates. This also allowed me to have some work done to the masthead. I bought myself two weeks of work with lines secured as described. I am about to do the same for the side stays, but will make it a weekend job. This is a long-winded way of saying that I also vote for #2. Good luck with your venture.
Thanks for the replies
Thanks guys. I'll go with option #2 and I'll rig a halyard to each side as backup as well. If there's any rolling at all, I'll have bigger problems to worry about than the chainplates (she's on jack stands on the hard right now!)
I will take some photos for the projects site. I should have lots to take since I'm doing the chainplates, replacing all the seacocks, replacing all the sanitation and potable water hoses, re-doing the countertop, removing the engine to fix a broken mount, replacing the packing gland with a PSS, re-bedding all stations and windows, and miscellaneous other "little projects"! If Fred or anybody else feels like doing hard labor in Tacoma, I'll supply the tools and beer! Craig
Thanks guys. I'll go with option #2 and I'll rig a halyard to each side as backup as well. If there's any rolling at all, I'll have bigger problems to worry about than the chainplates (she's on jack stands on the hard right now!)
I will take some photos for the projects site. I should have lots to take since I'm doing the chainplates, replacing all the seacocks, replacing all the sanitation and potable water hoses, re-doing the countertop, removing the engine to fix a broken mount, replacing the packing gland with a PSS, re-bedding all stations and windows, and miscellaneous other "little projects"! If Fred or anybody else feels like doing hard labor in Tacoma, I'll supply the tools and beer! Craig- Status