Any suggestions on an easier way to remove teak caprail other than sweat and tears and a lot of swear words, meaning hammer and pry bar. (Endeavor 43)
Removing Caprail
- Thread starter raywood
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are there any screws in it?? there should be plugs--teakwood plugs in it marking screws--should be able to unscrew it and go from there?????? hammer and pry bar will cause big damage and at 80 dollars per board foot, is kinda high priced damage....the addage---"-if it dont fit, force it " only works in tuna boats......and other steel boats...where are ye--i see yer in warmspot also--as am i--mebbe i can come over and see with ye what is up with the cap.......
Once the screws are removed it usually helps to 'release' the caulk by 'sawing' through the caulk with a medium gage 'wrapped' piano or guitar string. The surface roughness of the wrapped music wire will provide sufficient 'tooth' to do the cutting.
Example: http://www.amazon.com/DAddario-EXP16-Phosphor-Bronze-Light/dp/B0002E3CJ0
This method also helps in releasing ports/portlights from their frames, etc.
Example: http://www.amazon.com/DAddario-EXP16-Phosphor-Bronze-Light/dp/B0002E3CJ0
This method also helps in releasing ports/portlights from their frames, etc.
Personally I would cut a bunch of hardwood wedges and just start tapping them in a little at a time working from the loose end and leap-froging the wedges. Also alternate direction of the wedges driving one inboard and one outboard and so on. Obviously if you are trying to save the cap you need to remove any mechanical fasteners first. if not let them pull through thru the back it will be easier to remove them with vice grips after the cap rail has been removed then trying to get a screwdriver to stay in a slot full of glue or 5200.
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