Removing Cabin Sole

[Capt. Allan Banyacsky]

I'm interseted in inspecting the undersides of the cabin sole, located in the galley area. Although some of the other boards are screwed down, this area looks like it's held down with an adhesive (hopefully not 5200), or some other form of cement or epoxy. Any sugestions for the removal process or the make up of the adhesive?

 

[Bob Todd]

According to Rudy...

It's 5200. I've got the same problem with the cabin sole in my 272LE. I wanted to replace rather than refinish, but I guess I'll have to go with the latter.Cheers,Bob

 

[Mike]

5200 solvent

If you read the label on a tube of 5200 it lists a solvent for the stuff. I saw a program on "This Old Boat" where the guy had to remove an old swim platform transom on a powerboat and used this solvent to get it off. It took a number of applications with lots of soak time but the platform evetually came off without damage to the platform or the fiberglass on the transom. As I said the solvent is listed and is available at marine supply shops.Good Luck,Mike

 

[David]

Anti-bond 2015 . . .

works great on a number of marine adhesives. West Marine carries it. It isn't cheap, but it works well! I used it to remove the adhesive from my CB wedges.David

 

[Derek A Howard]

Just removed cabin sole in galley area

I removed the sole and replaced a few weeks ago. It's down tight so give yourself a day. BEWARE ... it will not come up in one piece so be prepared to build a new sole. If you're just curious as to what is below its a solid glass floor with a small drain hole at the main cabin door and a larger port, 4" dia, at the left end of the kitchen cabinet as you enter the seating area. Bilge water runs below this glass floor from engin area. I used a pry bar and my hands to tear it to shreds. Found the 5200 residue came up ok with a scraper. Wash with acetone and brass brush removed the remainder. My glass under sole was fine. A few knicks I filled with West Epoxy. Cost of 1/2" teak and holly marine ply over $150 for an 8x4. Decided to build a new sole from 3/4" solid mahogony and teak 3" boards. I used buscuit joins. Routed patern in floor at foot of steps to give grip. Eased the edge into seating area to 1/2" for 3" deep so don't stub toes. Varnished front and back starting with 80% thinner to get good penetration. Sand between and finished with low sheen. Sole looks great. Will do the others next season.