Removing adhesive residue on teak

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Manny

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Oct 5, 2006
983
Hunter 82? 37 Cutter Wherever the wind takes me
Any tips for removing adhesive residue from teak? I am refinishing some interior teak trim from the companionway which had self adhesive velcro on it. I have not been able to remove it effectively :cussing:. I've tried acetone, goof off, sanding, and scraping with a razor...

Thanks,

Manny
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Manny try slathering on GoJo hand cleaner and leaving it over night and water washing it the next day. It works when almost everything else fails.
 

Manny

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Oct 5, 2006
983
Hunter 82? 37 Cutter Wherever the wind takes me
Thanks Ross. I'll head over to the big box store tomorrow after work to pick some up.

Manny
 
E

Eddie, Cape Coral Fl.

adhesive remover

Manny,

Try Googone. It is like goofoff but I find it to be much better.
Can also be found a the big box store. Good luck.

Eddie
 
Jan 2, 2008
547
Hunter 33 (Cherubini design Forked River, Barnegat Bay, NJ
Depends on the adhesive.

There are several diferent adhesive bases and depending on which, are more or less readily disolved by different solvents.

My first line of defense is always Varsol/Stoddard solvent/Paint thinner/Mineral Spirits. If that won't get it I delve into my solvent arsenal, usualy in this order. Acetone, lacquer thinner, MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), toluene, xylene, xylol. I get most of this stuff at the big box. I prefer the blue one these days. I have never seen any of these products damage wood or gel coat. If these fail you can try aerosol label/decal remover but just like paint remover, it contains methyl chloride which at best is some seriously nasty crap and can damage gel if not removed in time.

If none of those do it 5 to 10 years or so of sun exposure will embrittle the adhesive and then a finger nail will get it.
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Try wd-40 it's a great solvent and wont harm anything.
I would not use WD40 on teak as it will absorb it. This may lead to smells and problems with finishes not adhering to the wood.

I had this same problem when I refinished my teak interior last winter. It took acetone and lots of elbow grease to get the residue off. I would do a little bit every time I got on the boat because the area I was cleaning was about 8x10.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
You sometimes need TIME.

Use common adhesive removers but allow sufficient soak time. You sometimes need this 'reaction time' to soften the adhesive. For 'extra time' apply the goo remover to a folded paper towel affix to the surface then cover with a layer of saran wrap and seal the edges of the saran with blue masking tape, etc.; then, Let sit. I prefer Goo-Gone.
 
Jun 19, 2004
512
Catalina 387 Hull # 24 Port Charlotte, Florida
If none of these work, you may give "Grease Be Gone" from State Chemical a try Manny. It works wonders on many many stubborn things.

Good luck! Oh, and I almost forgot, it may require a little elbow grease to help it out :) .
 

Manny

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Oct 5, 2006
983
Hunter 82? 37 Cutter Wherever the wind takes me
Thanks for all the suggestions. I tried hand cleaner but it didn't make a dent in the adhesive. I had some goo gone but it is petroleum based and I didn't want that to soak in the wood, same with wd-40. I ended up using more acetone followed by scraping with fresh razor blades, then immediately sanding, then back to scraping, then sanding, ad infinitum. It seems when I would sand the dust would collect on the tacky adhesive, then when I would scrape the adhesive it couldn't stick to itself. It took an incredible amount of time but it's done. It would have been considerably faster for me to make new pieces! I wish I new what kind of velcro this was because the adhesive was incredible!!!

Thanks again,

Manny
 
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