Removing a stuck on prop question

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,645
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
I’m removing the 3 blade prop on my C30 to have it refurbished.
I loosened the nut and now have a 3 prong puller set up with as much tension on it as I can get. The prop hasn’t moved. Yesterday I tried applying some heat to the prop hub with a small propane torch and tapping the prop with a brass hammer but it wouldn’t pop loose.
Using heat on the hub was an idea that I’ve read about here, I believe.
How much heat is needed? Does the hub need to get hot enough to show a little red?
I can borrow a gas oxy torch today to get more heat on it If that’s what it takes.
Thanks
 
Aug 2, 2005
1,155
Pearson 33-2 & Typhoon 18 Seneca Lake
Hello Ward H, Did you try the Search option at the top of the page? I remember discussions of prop removal. Don't be too quick with the extra heat.
 
  • Helpful
Likes: ggrizzard
Apr 29, 2012
67
Catalina 30 TRBS Lake City Marina
I’m removing the 3 blade prop on my C30 to have it refurbished.
I loosened the nut and now have a 3 prong puller set up with as much tension on it as I can get. The prop hasn’t moved. Yesterday I tried applying some heat to the prop hub with a small propane torch and tapping the prop with a brass hammer but it wouldn’t pop loose.
Using heat on the hub was an idea that I’ve read about here, I believe.
How much heat is needed? Does the hub need to get hot enough to show a little red?
I can borrow a gas oxy torch today to get more heat on it If that’s what it takes.
Thanks
I did this job two years ago when switching to a flexo fold prop. I wrapped some line around the shaft and attached that to a small board as leverage to hold onto to the shaft from turning without damage to shaft(could use a belt wrench). This allowed me to get the puller very tight but the prop didn't budge. Thats when I puy heat from a mapp gas cylinder onto the prop hub. Turning slightly red all of a sudden the prop came loose with what sounded like a rifle shot! I would have never gotten the prop off without heat. No damage to prop or shaft( I have a bronze shaft)
 

dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
3,370
Belliure 41 Sailing back to the Chesapeake
I’m removing the 3 blade prop on my C30 to have it refurbished.
I loosened the nut and now have a 3 prong puller set up with as much tension on it as I can get. The prop hasn’t moved. Yesterday I tried applying some heat to the prop hub with a small propane torch and tapping the prop with a brass hammer but it wouldn’t pop loose.
Using heat on the hub was an idea that I’ve read about here, I believe.
How much heat is needed? Does the hub need to get hot enough to show a little red?
I can borrow a gas oxy torch today to get more heat on it If that’s what it takes.
Thanks
I would not get it so hot to show a little red... But it can take a lot of heat...

We used to have a hammer with a lead head, not brass. Tapping would not be the descriptive word I'd use when describing how I'd watched that hammer used to loosen a prop once. Beating the hell out of it would be closer to the description I'd have used. But don't forget, that lead head was quite soft and did not even remotely mar the prop no matter how hard you hit...

dj
 

NYSail

.
Jan 6, 2006
3,048
Beneteau 423 Mt. Sinai, NY
I removed my prop this off season.... don't know it it had ever been done (15 years). I applied heat to the prop....... got it hot then hit the side with a hammer a couple of times in different places, not too hard. Came right off..... If you have the puller maxed with tension, make sure the nut is on so the prop does not fly off once its loose.

Good Luck
Greg
 
  • Like
Likes: barnstormer
Jul 23, 2009
857
Beneteau 31 Oceanis Grand Lake, Oklahoma
1. Grease all the contact points and threads on the jack screw.
2. Use a cordless impact driver on the jack screw. Be careful, it is possible to damage the puller.
3. Heat, I like the "turbo torch" with mapp gas.
4. Hammer.

I also find it very helpful to use a lot of colorful language.
 

DougM

.
Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
Soak the joint between the shaft and prop with PB Blaster, then tap lightly with a hammer and let it sit to soak in while you enjoy a cold one. Then come back, slowly put turns on the prop puller. It should pop off without putting a lot of tension on it. Personally, I am not a fan of the heat and beat method unless its a last resort on boat stuff.
 
  • Like
Likes: ggrizzard
Dec 14, 2003
1,393
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
You probably thought of it but I have to ask: were the set screws loosened up or removed ?
 
Last edited:
Feb 26, 2011
1,428
Achilles SD-130 Alameda, CA
You might check around with the local prop repair shops for a loaner or rental prop puller. Hull cleaners pull props every day without heat or other extraordinary measures. The right tool for the job and all.
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,645
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
A lot of good suggestions. Picked up a MAP Torch. Borrowed a impact driver. Put more PB Baster on it, while protecting the cutlass bearing.
Waited a few hours.
Heated the hub of the prop for what felt like a very long time. It's full sun today so cannot tell if the hub got hot enough to glow or not. Tried tapping with the hammer.
Still no luck.
Called prop shop to see if I could rent a prop puller. They stopped renting theirs after it came back broke twice.
I'm using a Harbor Freight puller which has a pad on the end. That alone is a point of additional friction. @Scott T-Bird has what looks like a better 3 prong puller with only the point on the end. I'll borrow that, grease it up and try that tomorrow after letting the PB Blaster soak over night. Meanwhile when I get home I'll make up a mix of ATF and Acetone to apply tomorrow.
And I'll continue looking for a true prop puller.

Thanks all
 
  • Like
Likes: barnstormer
Feb 10, 2004
3,917
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
<snip>
And I'll continue looking for a true prop puller.

Thanks all
I have a puller that I made years ago for my 2-blade prop on my 30' Morgan. That boat had a 7/8" shaft but the puller will fit something a bit larger- I would have to check. It was made from 2 pieces of 1/2" thick steel with a couple of big bolts, nts, and washers to tighten the two plates together. I can supply pictures near the end of March when I return home from Florida.

Free to the first taker for the actual shipping costs. Probably weighs 5 pounds or so.
 
Sep 25, 2008
1,096
CS 30 Toronto
When I pull my prop from a CS30, I wrap the shaft above the prop with a few layers of tin foil. Soak it with ATF / Acetone or PBlast.

Just loosen the prop nut about 1/8". Keep the bearing puller on and tighten it as far as you can get. Let it sit for a day or two. The bearing puller thread should be pushing on the shaft not the nut. If it can't reach, you can put a small socket inside the prop nut. The idea is to transmit the force onto the shaft in line with the shaft. The prop nut is to prevent injury when the prop came loose and it will snap out with force. Believe me.

Come back with a hammer and propane torch. Heat the prop hub for a while and hit the bolt head of the puller a bunch of time. The tin foil is to keep the shaft from heating up as much as the hub. It also reduce evaporation and dripping. Don't hit the prop hub as it may bend the shaft.

Tighten the puller as much as possible again. The heat and shock help the ATF/Acetone or PBlast penetrate.

Repeat a few hours or days later. It took me 4 tries over two week and she came off with a bang.

Remember the prop is brass and the shaft is stainless steel. If they were installed without anti-seize compound they will be bonded together.

So: soak-heat-bang-wait (repeat)

Patient my friend.
 
Jan 19, 2010
1,169
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
Get a pieced of plywood to protect the leading edge of your rudder.. Withe the wheel puller under strain use a nylon hammer and strike the prop from the sides. Stay clear of the line of travel. You can also tie a line around the strut and over the prop with 4-6" of slack.
 
Feb 8, 2014
1,300
Columbia 36 Muskegon
Tapping with a hammer helps, but NEVER strike the forward face of the prop like you're trying to drive it off the shaft. That is sure to damage the bearings in the transmission. It usually doesn't show up immediately, but down the road a ways the trans will fail. Strike the SIDES of the prop to get a vibration going. Also use a block of wood jammed between the hull and prop to prevent it turning while you tighten up the puller. I use a 24" breaker bar on the nuts, probably generating a couple tons of force. Tighten it up as hard as you can, then let it sit. When it breaks loose it will do so with some violence, so leave a nut loosely on the shaft to keep the prop from flying off. Penetrating oil helps, and I've done this a number of times and never had to use heat.
And right, the holding power of a properly fitted taper is amazing, the key and nuts are just back up.
 
Jun 2, 2011
347
Hunter H33 Port Credit Harbour, ON.
I use a hand applied hydraulic puller with the bearing puller turned backwards against the hub to pull my Variprop every year.
Example of the kit is here:


Some considerations.
When you heat the hub you have to get the heat in quickly so the hub expands before the shaft heats up. Especially with a shaft that is made from the same material as the prop.

Striking the hub on the side will release the taper joint but it is best to have a heavy bucking block on the opposite side to where you strike. Use an anvil on the striking side so that you don't strike the prop directly. Will take two people because you can't hold the bucking block and the anvil at the same time. Usually the one with the hammer holds the anvil. Use a heavy hammer.