Remove Prop

[SirMichael]

I spent a lot of time yesterday trying to remove the prop off my 88' Hunter 28.5. Couldn't get it off. I want to get the prop checked out to see if it's the source of the vibration that I get...

There was a cotter pin, and two nuts that were tightened, but the prop was about 1/8" away from the nuts, farther up on the shaft. I removed the cotter pin & nuts and tried two different gear pullers that I had (3 and 2 prong), but pull as I would the prop wouldn't come off. With gear puller on the prop, I did try tapping the back side with a hammer, but I didn't want to put too much stress on the transmission and bearings. There doesn't appear to be anything at the back of the prop to stop it from moving up tighter (washer??), just the taper.

Suggestions?
Sir Michael

 

[jssailem]

If you are in a marina see if a shop will lend you a prop puller. The larger ones have a slide hammer. It strikes the prop not the shaft or the transmission.
You have a key which is in the slot you see in your image of the engine side of the prop.
Nothing else.

 

[RoyS]

Slide hammer will apply unwanted force on your transmission. Heat applied to the prop while using the two jaw puller should cause the prop to jump off. Keep your face clear.

 

[barnstormer]

The easiest way to remove a prop that has been on a long time is to heat up the prop with a mapp gas torch while having a three arm puller clamped down exerting pressure on it. It wouldn't hurt to use some pb blaster to help it along. Be sure to leave a nut loosely on the shaft so when the prop breaks free of the shaft it won't fall on the ground. This is how I got my prop off after 33 yrs of being on and it came off like a rifle shot after it gave way! Good luck

 

[dlochner]

Do not use a slide hammer, it can damage the transmission.

Also, be aware the prop can come off with some force when the tension is finally released. Do not stand behind it.

Apply tension with a prop puller or 3 arm gear puller and leave the pressure on. Heat the hub and continue to apply pressure. Alternatively use PB Blaster and let it soak in. Keep the tension on the prop.

If the shaft is bronze, be prepared to purchase a new Aquamet shaft as it may be more than pressure holding the prop in place, i.e, the bronze prop and shaft have corroded together.

 

[Tally Ho]

The prop and shaft are tapered, so they create a very tight fit.

Do NOT bang on the prop with a hammer…It Won’t come off thst way, and as others have said, you can damage your d
transmission.

A commercial prop puller is best. There are a few designs.


If you can’t borrow one, I made a few metal plates, one with a section cut out to fit over the shaft, with bolt holes that I can squeeze the prop off the shaft. Slow, squeezing pressure is best. Once there is pressure on prop, a slight tap on the prop hub can trigger it to pop off.

I show the rig I made up in this video, but here I was using it to press out my strut bearing…I will be pulling my prop this layup, maybe I will make a video of how I do it.

I have tried using heat on the prop hub, but never had a lot of success with that.

You should leave one of the nuts on the shaft, but loose and backed off the shaft, so when the prop pops off, it doesn’t fall on the ground.

@fstbttms pulls props under water! He has some videos on YouTube and he uses a different type of puller…but the key is the pressure it puts on the prop as it is squeezed against the end of the shaft.

Good luck…patience is the key the first time…don’t bang it with a hammer.

Greg

 

[fstbttms]

@fstbttms pulls props under water! He has some videos on YouTube and he uses a different type of puller…but the key is the pressure it puts on the prop as it is squeezed against the end of the shaft.

 

[dlochner]

Steve D'Antonio has some thoughts about prop removal and installation. (Scroll down the page past the editorial for the prop section.)

Proper Propeller Removal – Editorial: The State of the Industry and Hybrid Propulsion | Steve D'Antonio Marine Consulting

 

[SirMichael]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I guess the first thing that I will try is heating up with map gas and the two prong puller that I have, and see if that works.

I didn’t leave the nuts in place when I was working on 40 but mostly that was to keep from deforming the end of the prop shaft. But it makes sense to leave it on there so that when it does come off that it doesn’t go flying.

it also occurred to me that if I did have to bang on it, that I could disconnect the flange from the transmission and figure out someway to take up the stress on the prop shaft. I do have Something on the prop shaft flange that takes up some of the vibration from between the shaft and the transmission, I just don’t remember the name of it right now. But I don’t see where that it’s really gonna figure into the equation here…

Sir Michael

 

[dlochner]

I do have Something on the prop shaft flange that takes up some of the vibration from between the shaft and the transmission

These devices are not for absorbing compression and tension forces that banging on the prop will produce, they dampen the vibration from the shaft and transmission from being mildly miss aligned or the motor bouncing on the motor mounts, which is vertical and lateral, not fore and aft.

 

[SirMichael]

I finally got my prop off. I went up there with a mapp gas torch and got the prop up to 250 degrees F (hottest I could get it with the wind blowing - HARD). Wouldn't come off, I just damaged the puller tools that I had.

I went to the local marine center and the guy came over after about 45 minutes (he was only about a block away) with a scissor style tool similar to the one below. He set it up, cranked on it and BANG! It popped off (the bolt was in place so it didn't drop off). But it took a LOT of force. The guy asked for $30, but I gave him $40... It was well worth it to me!

I do have a Martec folding prop that I may try, or possibly get the one that I have tested to see if it may be the source of the vibration.

Sir Michael

 

[fstbttms]

View attachment 221446

The right tool for the job.

I do have a Martec folding prop that I may try...

If you do, do NOT install it without using Monel cotter pins.

 

[jssailem]

it took a LOT of force.

That was a good thing. The last thing you want is a prop that pops off easily or hangs sloppily on the shaft.

 

[Tally Ho]

Here is how I did it today…

Greg

 

[BigEasy]

Here is how I did it today

Greg,
Excellent video!

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

In my years as a sailboat dealer, I saw how one fellow took his wife’s advice, saw the prop shaft off above the strut. He did it. He asked me if there was a clamp on shaft part as his wife told him to look for. I advised him a new prop shaft had to be ordered and installed with the boat out of the water. When he left, all of us laughed very hard

 

[fstbttms]

Here is how I did it today...

What would make tightening the nuts easier isn't a finer thread on the all-thread. It's a longer wrench.

 

[jssailem]

Great helpful video Greg. Timely as well. This time of year many are hauling their boat ashore, putting the boat to rest. Nice tool was developed for the task.

 

[artboas]

Great helpful video Greg. Timely as well. This time of year many are hauling their boat ashore, putting the boat to rest. Nice tool was developed for the task.

Easiest way to get a prop off.. (I saw a guy do this once)
Paint the prop black.
For some other reason, remove cotter pin from the prop nut.
Go for a sail.

100% guaranteed this will remove the prop.
He never gave me a satisfactory explanation as to why he painted it, and I felt badly that a bunch of guys in the bar were about to fall off their chairs after hearing this.

 

[Tally Ho]

What would make tightening the nuts easier isn't a finer thread on the all-thread. It's a longer wrench.

That too…. I forgot my good set of ratchets

Greg