Remove mast on 33.5 - 1989 Hunter sailboat

Dec 10, 2011
24
Blue Tequila 33.5 St. Augustine
I need to remove my deck step mast & I have a couple of questions:

1. how does one disengage the wires going up into the mast from under the deck...is there some kind of junction box or something inside the mast where they can be disconnected

2. are there any peculiarities I need to be aware of when lifting, removing & installing the deck step mask from the deck

3. what's the exact length of the compression post and has anyone used plastic composite deck wood as a compression post

Thank you for your reply...Rob
 
Feb 27, 2004
172
Hunter 335 North East, MD
I removed the mast on my 94 33.5 a couple of years ago. If yours is engineered like mine there is a small hatch in the aft of the head you will find the wires and junction box there. Removing the mast is no problem, restepping and feeding the wires back through is a major pain as you are fishing around blind with your hand. I can't answer # 3- good luck
 

DSqr

.
Feb 27, 2010
48
Hunter 376 Racine, WI
Rob,
I just had the compression post rebuilt on an 89 H33.5 last year. The old one rotted out because of the water coming down through the mast. You couldn't tell it because the teak wrap hid the damage. We laminated white oak planks to fit the dimensions of the old post and sealed the ends with epoxy. When the new teak wrap was done, you could not tell the difference. The wires are run in a channel behind the compression post, near the bulkhead.
Good luck.
 
Dec 10, 2011
24
Blue Tequila 33.5 St. Augustine
Also do you have the exact size of the compression post? Thanks again, Rob
 
Mar 11, 2015
357
Hunter 33.5 Tacoma, WA
Rob,
I just had the compression post rebuilt on an 89 H33.5 last year. The old one rotted out because of the water coming down through the mast. You couldn't tell it because the teak wrap hid the damage. We laminated white oak planks to fit the dimensions of the old post and sealed the ends with epoxy. When the new teak wrap was done, you could not tell the difference. The wires are run in a channel behind the compression post, near the bulkhead.
Good luck.
Is it possible to replace the compression post without removing the mast?
 
Dec 10, 2011
24
Blue Tequila 33.5 St. Augustine
because deck is sinking in below the mast, I'm going to remove the mast to fix the deck
 
Jan 19, 2010
1,302
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
Presumably you have a yard crane to unstep.. Lift the mast about 6". You should then see the light connector, antenna wire and any other instrument conductors. Have at the ready a jack knife or other such cutting tool as the connectors will usually be wrapped in electrical tape. Remove tape, separate connectors and lift mast free.

Rick
 
Dec 10, 2011
24
Blue Tequila 33.5 St. Augustine
do remember what the height size of the compression post was...thanks rob
 
Apr 5, 2016
71
Hunter 33.5 Grapevine, TX
Hi Rob and folks,
Apologies for any thread hijacking, but at least this is compression post-related. I recently bought a 1989 Hunter 33.5, it is being delivered to Texas towards the end of this week. I had the surveyor spend extra time checking the hull and deck for any delamination, soft spots, wet core, etc. and that all came back with flying colors. I also told him the other key structural item was checking the compression post for water intrusion/rot, but he couldn't do as thorough a job as I was hoping because of the teak trim and there is a big mirror glued to the aft bulkhead of the head which also gets in the way. So once the boat gets down I want to remove the trim and be able to examine the compression post in all its naked glory, including removing that mirror (which doesn't look like it wants to come off). I have tried to read every thread I could find on the various forum sites (including this one), but haven't really found a good guide to removing all the things surrounding the compression post in order to fully expose it. Can anyone who has done this lay out a procedure? I heard there are brads in some places holding the teak on, and screws in other places, possibly with plug that need a screwdriver to pop out - but having someone walk through the steps would be really helpful.
Thanks,
'Dubs
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,390
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Rob,
Your wires will either have a connector set up stuffed in the mast or a Previous Owner may have altered it and then it is anybody's guess. Based on the gear you have on the mast, you may have electrical wires for the lights/sensor gear, Coax for a radio, and radar cable for the a Radar unit. When I recently did my mast we also found pipe foam, foam dust, and a few crawly critter etc.
Radio Coax. Think about replacement. You get the best service from a continuous line antenna to radio. Each connection contributes upto a 1db signal loss. Options include a connector inside the mast which you disconnect when removing mast, or cutting off the connector at the radio end - removing the coax from the cabin up through the deck hole and then when installing the mast feeding the wire back into the boat and installing a new PL-259 connector to reconnect the radio. If your mast is a permanent install and rarely removed then this is a good option. You need to raise and lower the mast frequently then get a double female connector for when you need to connect/disconnect the wires. The convenience may be worth the half mile signal loss.

Radar is an animal all it's own. They do not like to be spliced in any way. So your pretty much required to remove the wire from the from the monitor and feed it up through the deck and out with the mast..
On install we used a drip loop idea with the wires in the mast. All of my wires are in conduit in the mast. so if any water/condensation gets on the wires it is coming down to the base of the mast. The wire leads were all looped down then back up before they entered the conduit in the deck. Thus water can drop off the wire and then out a weep hole on the mast step. You know there is going to be water. So you just have to give it a path of least resistance.

With the electrical wires I cut off the old leads and sealed the through deck holes. On re connecting them I lead all wires through the deck and installed a wire block. This lets me crimp on solid wire connectors and attach the leads to the block. When I remove the mast I just unscrew the leads and feed them through the deck and away with the mast. No issue of wires in the mast base getting corroded. Hopefully less chance of unseen corrosion getting to the leads causing the Anchor light to be intermittent.
Best of luck.