I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the main sliding hatch on my 1980 Oday 28. I want to take it in my shop to do some fiberglass reinforcement to it. Thanks
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Get the Drill
Willy, Look for the small round plugs in the wood strips that the hatch slides in. You need to drill these out to expose the screws that hold the strips in place. I use a 5/16" spur bit so as not to enlarge the hole past 3/8 of an inch which is the size of the plug that you will be putting back in to finish the job. You only have to remove one side to remove the hatch. That will save you some time. You can get the new 3/8" plugs at West or any other marine store. Just put a dab of silicone seal in the hole and insert the plug. When it cures you will need to sand off the excess and then finish with whatever use use on your brightwork. Not a hard job at all. PM
Willy, Look for the small round plugs in the wood strips that the hatch slides in. You need to drill these out to expose the screws that hold the strips in place. I use a 5/16" spur bit so as not to enlarge the hole past 3/8 of an inch which is the size of the plug that you will be putting back in to finish the job. You only have to remove one side to remove the hatch. That will save you some time. You can get the new 3/8" plugs at West or any other marine store. Just put a dab of silicone seal in the hole and insert the plug. When it cures you will need to sand off the excess and then finish with whatever use use on your brightwork. Not a hard job at all. PM
Trick to get plugs out
I have a similar project coming. I have a concern that drilling out my plugs (the plugs that Paul mentions below) would enlarge the holes or, worse, would not a perfectly round hole due to the drill walking on me. Don Casey's book, "Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair", shows a trick. He advocated drilling a small hole through the plug which would deadend into the head of the underlying screw. Then, screwing in a small screw into this hole, the point of this screw would find the head of the screw below. As you continue to turn the screw, the threads of the screw literally lift the plug out of it's seat. The force of turning screw slowly breaks the glue bond. Just an idea. I think the book is worth getting. Good luck with your project.
I have a similar project coming. I have a concern that drilling out my plugs (the plugs that Paul mentions below) would enlarge the holes or, worse, would not a perfectly round hole due to the drill walking on me. Don Casey's book, "Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair", shows a trick. He advocated drilling a small hole through the plug which would deadend into the head of the underlying screw. Then, screwing in a small screw into this hole, the point of this screw would find the head of the screw below. As you continue to turn the screw, the threads of the screw literally lift the plug out of it's seat. The force of turning screw slowly breaks the glue bond. Just an idea. I think the book is worth getting. Good luck with your project.
Removing bungs
I had to remove my companionway hatch a few weeks ago and I removed the teak bungs with a small rotary hand drill. In his book entitled Boat Carpentry, Hervey Garret Smith mentions this tip for removing bungs; take a small wood screw and cut the head off it and insert the screw into a rotary drill brace. Drill into the center of the bung,and it will back right out when the the screw hits the head of the screw beneath the bung. Like the other fellow said, you only need to remove one moulding to get the sliding hatch out. When you get it all back together,to install the bungs, just coat the bottom and sides of the bungs with a little varnish, and insert them so that the wood grain is going in the same direction as the grain of the moulding, and carefully tap them in. When they're dry, take a sharp chisel and cut a little off each one until they are just high enough to sand flush, with sandpaper. That's it. Good Luck!
I had to remove my companionway hatch a few weeks ago and I removed the teak bungs with a small rotary hand drill. In his book entitled Boat Carpentry, Hervey Garret Smith mentions this tip for removing bungs; take a small wood screw and cut the head off it and insert the screw into a rotary drill brace. Drill into the center of the bung,and it will back right out when the the screw hits the head of the screw beneath the bung. Like the other fellow said, you only need to remove one moulding to get the sliding hatch out. When you get it all back together,to install the bungs, just coat the bottom and sides of the bungs with a little varnish, and insert them so that the wood grain is going in the same direction as the grain of the moulding, and carefully tap them in. When they're dry, take a sharp chisel and cut a little off each one until they are just high enough to sand flush, with sandpaper. That's it. Good Luck!
Neat trick
I am going to give you guys a trick that works great. Drill a hole thru the plug big enough for the screw driver to fit. The take a torch and heat up the screw driver head real well. Star unscrewing the screw and you will see the glue soften up. The plug and screw will come out easy and you will have a clean hole for your new plug when you put them back. Be very careful not to crack the hatch runners since they probably have a lot of sealant between the fiberglass and the wood. I just removed my toe rails handrails and hatch runners.
I am going to give you guys a trick that works great. Drill a hole thru the plug big enough for the screw driver to fit. The take a torch and heat up the screw driver head real well. Star unscrewing the screw and you will see the glue soften up. The plug and screw will come out easy and you will have a clean hole for your new plug when you put them back. Be very careful not to crack the hatch runners since they probably have a lot of sealant between the fiberglass and the wood. I just removed my toe rails handrails and hatch runners.
"Thanks'
Thankyou for the info. I kinda figured that I would have to remove a rail, so I may as weoll get started. Happy Thanksgiving to all
Thankyou for the info. I kinda figured that I would have to remove a rail, so I may as weoll get started. Happy Thanksgiving to all
what do you need to do?
Willy44: What kind of work do you need to do on your hatch. I too have an O'day 28, 1980. The fiberglass "slides" are worn very thin and are breaking off near the edges. Is that what you intend to work on? If so can these be edges be reglassed. Seems like they ought to be reglassed if need be. I'm thinking that once the edges are reglassed then I'd install a thin layer of teflon strip in the teak slide. I might have to mill out some of the teak rail to keep the same relative location of the hatch for mating with the companion way boards and for proper fit with the deck. Lastly, have you ever seen an OD 28 with a "storm hatch" installed? I'd love to put one on my boat because I could then locate the front of my dodger and snap it in position. Friends have suggested I build one from fiberglass from a foam board form. Good luck on your hatch, Mike
Willy44: What kind of work do you need to do on your hatch. I too have an O'day 28, 1980. The fiberglass "slides" are worn very thin and are breaking off near the edges. Is that what you intend to work on? If so can these be edges be reglassed. Seems like they ought to be reglassed if need be. I'm thinking that once the edges are reglassed then I'd install a thin layer of teflon strip in the teak slide. I might have to mill out some of the teak rail to keep the same relative location of the hatch for mating with the companion way boards and for proper fit with the deck. Lastly, have you ever seen an OD 28 with a "storm hatch" installed? I'd love to put one on my boat because I could then locate the front of my dodger and snap it in position. Friends have suggested I build one from fiberglass from a foam board form. Good luck on your hatch, Mike
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