Remote throttle cable

[hopalong]

Hello: I have an outboard on my Newport 28 which is mounted on a fold-down bracket. The throttle-gearshift controller in the cockpit necessitates that the remote cables have to run over the stern then down and into the front of the outboard (Yamaha 9.9). It means that the cables have to make a 90 bend to enter the engine. When I was coming in last night, the throttle was stuck wide open and I had to turn the key off and glide into the berth. It turned out that the cable was severed where it makes the bend. Are there any metal sliders that I could retrofit at this right angle bend to stop the cable from fraying. And also, I have lots of spare length, can I splice this cable shorter or do I have to buy a new one. Any help would be appreciated...
hopalong

 

[caguy]

Why do the cables have to run over the transom? You may need a service loop to avoid a hard turn.

 

[hopalong]

The outboard bracket is bolted to the transom on the stern of the boat; there is no window through the strern transom for the outboard and I don't like the idea of cutting a new window.

 

[caguy]

Drill Baby Drill

The outboard bracket is bolted to the transom on the stern of the boat; there is no window through the strern transom for the outboard and I don't like the idea of cutting a new window.

It doesn't take much of a hole and since I assume your set up is pemanet a hole makes sense. There is a boot available at most boat stores that conver the hole but provides a flexible water resistant outlet. I also run my gas line through there. Do you have an electric starter or a battery charger on your ob? Even more reason to drill. I don't like drilling new holes either but I also wouldn't want unsightlybcables running over the transom.

 

[kenn]

As Frank says there are boots, and even complete plates with fittings and boots for running control cables through the transom. Take a look at most motorboats with outboards. A boat wrecker might have used ones available.

You could also come up with some sort of extender or bell-crank and rod mechanism to improve the coupling to the motor, but it's probably not worth the hassle.

Regarding the control cable - it's not impossible to shorten them. Take the old O/B end apart, saving all the bits and taking notes, then use something like a Dremel rotary tool with the cut-off wheel to carefully cut the sheath at the desired spot. If possible, pull the inner cable back before making this cut. re-run the shortened cable, reassemble the end bits, and use the Dremel to trim the inner cable to length. Put something on the new cut end to prevent it from unravelling.