Has any single-handed sailer installed a remote control shift and throttle lever to make it more convenient when docking? I have a tiller instead of a wheel. Its very cumbersome and difficult especially when to docking to operate the tiller, reach down into the engine well for the throttle and shift, and then quickly jump off with the dock lines. It seems like having the engine controls up in the cockpit would be much more convenient. Has anyone done this? Where do you mount the controls?
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Jeff
Standard Equipment
We had a new 4 stroke Susuki 9.9 electric start with remote control installed on our 1996 H26 model. It uses the standard single lever throttle and shifter. The lever is mounted on the rear of the starboard settee. This location makes it very simple to back in our slip. It's also handy to use with my foot when motoring seated in the stern rail seat. The motor doesn't do a bad job keeping the batteries topped up. "Festivity"
We had a new 4 stroke Susuki 9.9 electric start with remote control installed on our 1996 H26 model. It uses the standard single lever throttle and shifter. The lever is mounted on the rear of the starboard settee. This location makes it very simple to back in our slip. It's also handy to use with my foot when motoring seated in the stern rail seat. The motor doesn't do a bad job keeping the batteries topped up. "Festivity"
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Neil Smith
Remote steering/controls
I had a nifty system on my Columbia 24, which I recently sold to Jim Gardner in New Jersey. He hated it, so disassembled the unit and I believe he'd sell it to you REAL cheap. What the unit was, was a conventional piston drive outboard-tiller accompanied with remote throttle and shift controls, all neatly packaged in a unit that mounted on the inside of the port cockpit wall. The beauty of the thing was that you could control the engine speed and transmission from inside the cockpit without having to bend over the aft end of the boat, for periodic adjustments. Additionally, when combining the outboard steering with the tiller steering, you could turn the boat 180 degrees in 1.25 times the boat's length. Very responsive, indeed. I'd suggest you e-mailing Jim at iampeterpan@att.net. He indicates to me that he has absolutely no use for the unit I had installed, and based on what you're saying, it sounds like a perfect solution to your problem. Good luck and happy sails! Let me know if you guys strike a bargain. Neil Smith Ciao Bella - 1978 Cherubini H-27 nsmith@cfl.rr.com
I had a nifty system on my Columbia 24, which I recently sold to Jim Gardner in New Jersey. He hated it, so disassembled the unit and I believe he'd sell it to you REAL cheap. What the unit was, was a conventional piston drive outboard-tiller accompanied with remote throttle and shift controls, all neatly packaged in a unit that mounted on the inside of the port cockpit wall. The beauty of the thing was that you could control the engine speed and transmission from inside the cockpit without having to bend over the aft end of the boat, for periodic adjustments. Additionally, when combining the outboard steering with the tiller steering, you could turn the boat 180 degrees in 1.25 times the boat's length. Very responsive, indeed. I'd suggest you e-mailing Jim at iampeterpan@att.net. He indicates to me that he has absolutely no use for the unit I had installed, and based on what you're saying, it sounds like a perfect solution to your problem. Good luck and happy sails! Let me know if you guys strike a bargain. Neil Smith Ciao Bella - 1978 Cherubini H-27 nsmith@cfl.rr.com
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Jim Gardner
Suzuki Remote Controls
To Jerry Gerber, Neil Smith has advised me that you are interested in Remote Controls for your boat. I have the complete system, including steering piston control and cockpit mounting case etc. Just this past Sat, I removed it all from my boat, as I prefer manual operation of the engine. If you have any interest in the system, contact me directly at <iampeterpan@att.net>, as I do not monitor the HOW site. I have jumped on only for this reason. I will ship to you the entire system, cables, pistons, and cockpit mounting and control box for the cost of shipping and whatever a blank up plate costs. I'm easy.......Contact me directly if interested, I won't be here again. Thanks Neil, Jerry....balls in your court! Jim
To Jerry Gerber, Neil Smith has advised me that you are interested in Remote Controls for your boat. I have the complete system, including steering piston control and cockpit mounting case etc. Just this past Sat, I removed it all from my boat, as I prefer manual operation of the engine. If you have any interest in the system, contact me directly at <iampeterpan@att.net>, as I do not monitor the HOW site. I have jumped on only for this reason. I will ship to you the entire system, cables, pistons, and cockpit mounting and control box for the cost of shipping and whatever a blank up plate costs. I'm easy.......Contact me directly if interested, I won't be here again. Thanks Neil, Jerry....balls in your court! Jim
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Jim Malcolm
Docking with Outboard
You might want to try the following techinque: I moored bow in with my Catalina 22. To depart I would put it in reverse and goose the throttle then drop to neutral once I was moving. Upon returning, I came in at low idle and used the rudder to steer. I shifted into neutral well before I had to turn into the slip and coasted into the slip. To some practice to judge and of course had to adjust for wind (sail on a river so current is fairly constant). Normally dropped a line over a post as a came in and used wraps around winch to bleed off final speed. Experience in big boats (35-50') along Gulf Coast taught me to NOT depend upon the motor to stop the boat but come in slow. However, one mod I always wanted to do was to add a shift lever to the engine but not throttle control (leave at idle). Now I have a Hunter 23 that I have to berth stern in but haven't had chance to work out technique on this. Only time I docked it, the engine was in-op so I warped the boat back into the slip. Good luck.
You might want to try the following techinque: I moored bow in with my Catalina 22. To depart I would put it in reverse and goose the throttle then drop to neutral once I was moving. Upon returning, I came in at low idle and used the rudder to steer. I shifted into neutral well before I had to turn into the slip and coasted into the slip. To some practice to judge and of course had to adjust for wind (sail on a river so current is fairly constant). Normally dropped a line over a post as a came in and used wraps around winch to bleed off final speed. Experience in big boats (35-50') along Gulf Coast taught me to NOT depend upon the motor to stop the boat but come in slow. However, one mod I always wanted to do was to add a shift lever to the engine but not throttle control (leave at idle). Now I have a Hunter 23 that I have to berth stern in but haven't had chance to work out technique on this. Only time I docked it, the engine was in-op so I warped the boat back into the slip. Good luck.
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Jim Kolstoe
Docking under power
To Jim Malcom, I think the h26 is more cumbersom for controlling the motor than h23s. On my h23, when I back out of the slip, I sit on the port side so I can easily reach both the motor and the tiller. For maximum control, I loosen the set screw that (tries to) hold the motor pointed in one direction, then steer using the motor and rudder together. This gives me directed thrust to steer with, keeps the rudder blade out the propeller blades, and keeps the two steering forces from conflicting. I can almost pivot the boat around its keel because its effectivly pushing the transom sideways. Steering with the motor in reverese is easy, just point the back of the motor where you want to go. Beware of over-revving the engine, the exhast gases going out the propeller hub will quickly cause cavitation, substantially reducing the thrust developed. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
To Jim Malcom, I think the h26 is more cumbersom for controlling the motor than h23s. On my h23, when I back out of the slip, I sit on the port side so I can easily reach both the motor and the tiller. For maximum control, I loosen the set screw that (tries to) hold the motor pointed in one direction, then steer using the motor and rudder together. This gives me directed thrust to steer with, keeps the rudder blade out the propeller blades, and keeps the two steering forces from conflicting. I can almost pivot the boat around its keel because its effectivly pushing the transom sideways. Steering with the motor in reverese is easy, just point the back of the motor where you want to go. Beware of over-revving the engine, the exhast gases going out the propeller hub will quickly cause cavitation, substantially reducing the thrust developed. Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo
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G. Ned Christensen
Mixed Blessing
I own a '95 Hunter 26 with a Honda 9.9, and no remote controls. I often sail a friend's H26 that has remote shifter/ throtle on a Tohatsu 8hp motor. The stiff cables on the remote controls impair rotation of the motor when you are motoring in tight quarters. I thought I wanted the remote controls when I first bought my boat. Now, I definitely don't. I back into my slip and have to make a sharp turn that would be impossible without being able to rotate the motor freely. Best wishes, Ned Christensen Second Wind
I own a '95 Hunter 26 with a Honda 9.9, and no remote controls. I often sail a friend's H26 that has remote shifter/ throtle on a Tohatsu 8hp motor. The stiff cables on the remote controls impair rotation of the motor when you are motoring in tight quarters. I thought I wanted the remote controls when I first bought my boat. Now, I definitely don't. I back into my slip and have to make a sharp turn that would be impossible without being able to rotate the motor freely. Best wishes, Ned Christensen Second Wind
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Dave Condon
remote controls
The positioning of the mount controls as jeff mentioned on the starbord side is fine. Other comments concern the stiffness of the cables. When the control cables are bent, in a small radious or not long enough, then it will be difficult to shift. Run the cables backwards through the coaming with thge hole at an angle, not straight in. let the cables coil loosely in the back area behind battery and exit through hole that has a rubber boot cover that you you can purchase.l also run electrical and any wires throught this for the motor. Have tiller handle on the motor as some engines packaged with side mount controls do not contain the tiller handle. I have seen in an ealrier post discussion as to attaching motors onto the rudder so the motor turns with the ruddre which is good when docking. Ok guys, help ole crazy dave on this one. Thanky, thanky, thanky/. Crazy Dave
The positioning of the mount controls as jeff mentioned on the starbord side is fine. Other comments concern the stiffness of the cables. When the control cables are bent, in a small radious or not long enough, then it will be difficult to shift. Run the cables backwards through the coaming with thge hole at an angle, not straight in. let the cables coil loosely in the back area behind battery and exit through hole that has a rubber boot cover that you you can purchase.l also run electrical and any wires throught this for the motor. Have tiller handle on the motor as some engines packaged with side mount controls do not contain the tiller handle. I have seen in an ealrier post discussion as to attaching motors onto the rudder so the motor turns with the ruddre which is good when docking. Ok guys, help ole crazy dave on this one. Thanky, thanky, thanky/. Crazy Dave
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Ron Mehringer
Question for Ned
How hard is backing into the slip? Any tips or tricks you can pass along? I can see some definite advantages to being stern in. Especially in terms of boarding etc. I believe stern to the dock is pretty much the standard in certain parts of the world. Thanks Ron M H26 Hydro-Therapy
How hard is backing into the slip? Any tips or tricks you can pass along? I can see some definite advantages to being stern in. Especially in terms of boarding etc. I believe stern to the dock is pretty much the standard in certain parts of the world. Thanks Ron M H26 Hydro-Therapy
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Ron Mehringer
Dave - Rudder to Motor
Dave - Look in the photo forum for post entitled "Rudder to motor connection" posted on 11/8 by Terry Vacha. Looks like a great idea. I'm gonna try to figure out how to do the same. http://www.c-2.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Vacha73043150678&fno=17 Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
Dave - Look in the photo forum for post entitled "Rudder to motor connection" posted on 11/8 by Terry Vacha. Looks like a great idea. I'm gonna try to figure out how to do the same. http://www.c-2.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Vacha73043150678&fno=17 Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
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G. Ned Christensen
Bacing Into slip
Dear Ron, My wife is blessed with very short legs and has a difficult time boarding our H26 from the side. I always back into the slip and drop the swim ladder. It allows you to easily step aboard. To back in, I keep one hand on the tiller and one hand on the motor tiller. Just point the rudder and motor in the direction you want the stern of the boat to go. I have not found it to be difficult. Hope this helps. Ned Christensen SEcond Wind
Dear Ron, My wife is blessed with very short legs and has a difficult time boarding our H26 from the side. I always back into the slip and drop the swim ladder. It allows you to easily step aboard. To back in, I keep one hand on the tiller and one hand on the motor tiller. Just point the rudder and motor in the direction you want the stern of the boat to go. I have not found it to be difficult. Hope this helps. Ned Christensen SEcond Wind
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