Has anyone put in a remote control for an outboard on an H26. Where did you install it? What problems did you run into? We have a Honda 15 HP 4 cycle engine. Would like to put a dual(forward and reverse and speed) if possible. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 h26
- Status
Tidbits
Paul; First, I will tell you that although Honda is a good engine, you are over pwoered for the boat and suggest a motor with no more than 9.9 at the most. I fear that you will torque the outboard motor bracket and possibly damage the boat. Most sailboat manufacturers recommnend no more than 10 hp as the transoms are different than power boats. I have had many discussions over the years and still I will remain that the 15 hp is dangerous to put on the back end on that boat. There are various places to put a remote control on. I am not familiar with the Honda but there are a couple of suggestions. First, the placement should not be in an area to interfer with the movement of the tiller handle should your engine have one. Also, any electric in the gas well or gas locker such as electric start is a big no no. Gas fumes and electrical are a dangerouw match. I have been known to install on the port wall either low or up on the wall above seating area. If above the seat, make sure you can still raise any compartment lids, levers are unabstructed and should your boat have stern rail seats, it is not in the way. Keep it far back because you may have to remove some foam in order to mount and run cables. If you need any further information, call aGregg Emerson at Hunter for my number and give me a call. Crazy Dave Condon
Paul; First, I will tell you that although Honda is a good engine, you are over pwoered for the boat and suggest a motor with no more than 9.9 at the most. I fear that you will torque the outboard motor bracket and possibly damage the boat. Most sailboat manufacturers recommnend no more than 10 hp as the transoms are different than power boats. I have had many discussions over the years and still I will remain that the 15 hp is dangerous to put on the back end on that boat. There are various places to put a remote control on. I am not familiar with the Honda but there are a couple of suggestions. First, the placement should not be in an area to interfer with the movement of the tiller handle should your engine have one. Also, any electric in the gas well or gas locker such as electric start is a big no no. Gas fumes and electrical are a dangerouw match. I have been known to install on the port wall either low or up on the wall above seating area. If above the seat, make sure you can still raise any compartment lids, levers are unabstructed and should your boat have stern rail seats, it is not in the way. Keep it far back because you may have to remove some foam in order to mount and run cables. If you need any further information, call aGregg Emerson at Hunter for my number and give me a call. Crazy Dave Condon
Side of transom box
We fitted a yamaha 8hp 4 stroke (brilliant motor) with remote power trim and tilt. Mounted the control on the port side of the transom box just where you board from the swim ladder. Works perfectly.
We fitted a yamaha 8hp 4 stroke (brilliant motor) with remote power trim and tilt. Mounted the control on the port side of the transom box just where you board from the swim ladder. Works perfectly.
Your right on Dave
Far to much power. This little Yamaha 8 hp 4 stroke gets the 260 going easily. We have had her out in 35-45 knot squalls (sails tucked safely down stairs) and she motors along really well.
Far to much power. This little Yamaha 8 hp 4 stroke gets the 260 going easily. We have had her out in 35-45 knot squalls (sails tucked safely down stairs) and she motors along really well.
Remote for outboard
Dave and Mark, I agree with you as far as over kill on the outboard. It came with the boat. Saw a Mac26 cruising along on the lake. Took my binoculars out and noticed the engine cowling had the numbers on it. From the distance I thought it was 5.0. I wondered why the heck I couldn't catch him till I got back to the marina and saw the engine up close. Big difference between 5.0 and 50 hp. Thanks for the advice. Will give Greg at Hunter a call. If he can't help thanks for the offer Dave. The remote would make manuvering in and oout of my slip a heck of a lot easier. By the way, the electric starter is on the side of the engine away from the tanks. Had no intention of making that a remote function. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Dave and Mark, I agree with you as far as over kill on the outboard. It came with the boat. Saw a Mac26 cruising along on the lake. Took my binoculars out and noticed the engine cowling had the numbers on it. From the distance I thought it was 5.0. I wondered why the heck I couldn't catch him till I got back to the marina and saw the engine up close. Big difference between 5.0 and 50 hp. Thanks for the advice. Will give Greg at Hunter a call. If he can't help thanks for the offer Dave. The remote would make manuvering in and oout of my slip a heck of a lot easier. By the way, the electric starter is on the side of the engine away from the tanks. Had no intention of making that a remote function. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
I Know Your Dilemma
Dear Paul, I feel your pain. If there is one thing I dislike, it is the motoring in and out of my slip using my 9.9 Honda on a H260. The poor position your in, bending over steering, forwarding/reversing and controling speed, all while your trying to look over this huge cabin - its very uncomfortable and unsafe! However, I do like the ability to have the motor not connected to anything, totally modular, so at any time I can remove it for service or storage. This will be my winter project. I do know that Honda Marine sells many attachment accessories for this application. Check out their web site. Don't be to shocked when you see the prices. One thought I have is to mount the control unit on the cockpit wall (or stern rail) next to the motor. Then standing in front of the motor, I can control the power with my right hand and stear with my left hand. Idealy, I would like to have an elevated seat above the stern locker (you know - where the fuel tank is) and then you could mount the control unit on the right side of the seat. Unfortunately, this will not work on a tillered H260 cause you'll be sitting on the tiller. I will work it out this winter and post my solution on the HOW. Wish me luck & good luck to you. Let me know of any ideas you have. Thanks, Bob.
Dear Paul, I feel your pain. If there is one thing I dislike, it is the motoring in and out of my slip using my 9.9 Honda on a H260. The poor position your in, bending over steering, forwarding/reversing and controling speed, all while your trying to look over this huge cabin - its very uncomfortable and unsafe! However, I do like the ability to have the motor not connected to anything, totally modular, so at any time I can remove it for service or storage. This will be my winter project. I do know that Honda Marine sells many attachment accessories for this application. Check out their web site. Don't be to shocked when you see the prices. One thought I have is to mount the control unit on the cockpit wall (or stern rail) next to the motor. Then standing in front of the motor, I can control the power with my right hand and stear with my left hand. Idealy, I would like to have an elevated seat above the stern locker (you know - where the fuel tank is) and then you could mount the control unit on the right side of the seat. Unfortunately, this will not work on a tillered H260 cause you'll be sitting on the tiller. I will work it out this winter and post my solution on the HOW. Wish me luck & good luck to you. Let me know of any ideas you have. Thanks, Bob.
dilemma
Bob, Like your idea. Do you happen to have the web site for Honda. The previous owner of the boat supplied me with a control stick used on trolling motors. It's flexible enough to allow me to turn the motor if I have to plus control the engine speed. If you are interested next time I go down to the boat I'll get the name off the control stick. Yes, I have a tillered boat. So manuvering backwards has become an art form. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Bob, Like your idea. Do you happen to have the web site for Honda. The previous owner of the boat supplied me with a control stick used on trolling motors. It's flexible enough to allow me to turn the motor if I have to plus control the engine speed. If you are interested next time I go down to the boat I'll get the name off the control stick. Yes, I have a tillered boat. So manuvering backwards has become an art form. Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Remote
I got the remote controls for my 9.9. The speed works great, but the shifter is a pain. So hard to shift, I've snapped off two bolts. Now I just use my foot on the motor control shifter. The problem is with the cable. Raising the motor tends to kink the cable and kink it once and it's over. NO amount of grease will help.
I got the remote controls for my 9.9. The speed works great, but the shifter is a pain. So hard to shift, I've snapped off two bolts. Now I just use my foot on the motor control shifter. The problem is with the cable. Raising the motor tends to kink the cable and kink it once and it's over. NO amount of grease will help.
remote mount
I have a H240 and one of the best investments was the remote and interconnecting the tiller to outboard steering. I have an evinrude 9.9 4 stroke and cost me $300 for remove forward/reverse trottle, key starter kit (got roped in as it started at $150, then needed etc and endup $$$). BUT, just the safety factor is great, no reaching out, always looking in the direct I am going and can adjust speed rev/fwd and put in revere in seconds, great when coming up to a dock, been is bad spots when had to reverse out, then crank forward and did it with comfert standing by the tiller. I placed it on the back wall under the back seat. The best spot as you stand there when tillering and the trottle is at your finger or toe tips. Never in the way either. Keep the wire cable loop big and will have no trouble with sticking.
I have a H240 and one of the best investments was the remote and interconnecting the tiller to outboard steering. I have an evinrude 9.9 4 stroke and cost me $300 for remove forward/reverse trottle, key starter kit (got roped in as it started at $150, then needed etc and endup $$$). BUT, just the safety factor is great, no reaching out, always looking in the direct I am going and can adjust speed rev/fwd and put in revere in seconds, great when coming up to a dock, been is bad spots when had to reverse out, then crank forward and did it with comfert standing by the tiller. I placed it on the back wall under the back seat. The best spot as you stand there when tillering and the trottle is at your finger or toe tips. Never in the way either. Keep the wire cable loop big and will have no trouble with sticking.
remote mount
No, with the 240 an enclosed fiberglass seat runs across the stern, the same height etc as the ones on either side with perfect flathorizontally and vertically area. You lift up the stern seat top to access your gas tanks. Hope you get the idea. I mounted it that on the front wall, there is room, just enough from the floor to the top of the seat that it is not protruding and width wise is perfect. If only I has a camera
No, with the 240 an enclosed fiberglass seat runs across the stern, the same height etc as the ones on either side with perfect flathorizontally and vertically area. You lift up the stern seat top to access your gas tanks. Hope you get the idea. I mounted it that on the front wall, there is room, just enough from the floor to the top of the seat that it is not protruding and width wise is perfect. If only I has a camera
A thought or two
My 95 H26 came with a '73 8hp Mariner, it pushes the boat along at 6 knots. As to the controls, what I intend to do, is fabricate a simple rod to hook to my shift lever, as that is the only part I really need to worry about. I'm already at slowest speed when entering my docking area, and it is only the shifting that is a problem. I figure I can use the rod when motoring, and take it off under sail. That way nothing is in the way. I have my motor tiller in the up position, so speed is easily accessed anyway. Not as "elegant" as a control box, but I think it will more than suffice. John S/V Icymoon
My 95 H26 came with a '73 8hp Mariner, it pushes the boat along at 6 knots. As to the controls, what I intend to do, is fabricate a simple rod to hook to my shift lever, as that is the only part I really need to worry about. I'm already at slowest speed when entering my docking area, and it is only the shifting that is a problem. I figure I can use the rod when motoring, and take it off under sail. That way nothing is in the way. I have my motor tiller in the up position, so speed is easily accessed anyway. Not as "elegant" as a control box, but I think it will more than suffice. John S/V Icymoon
sounds a good idea
John, I bought my motor 2nd hand and did not come with tiller arm etc, so was easier going the whole hog with controls and woild still do it again, but your idea seems fine and very economical.
John, I bought my motor 2nd hand and did not come with tiller arm etc, so was easier going the whole hog with controls and woild still do it again, but your idea seems fine and very economical.
single handle remote
I mounted the remote on a piece of starboard, and clamped it to the starboard rail of my H26. The single handle dual function is the way to go, IMO. If there are seperate shift and throttle levers, it's possible to shift at high RPM's, not a good thing. A single lever eliminates that possibility. The picture shows the neutral position. Push forward to shift into forward, push further to accelerate. Opposite for reverse. The smaller lever is for adjusting the idle speed during warmup, and cannot be engaged unless the main lever is in neutral. With a tiller extension, I can dock the boat from the sternrail seat, and always keep my eyes facing in the direction of travel.
I mounted the remote on a piece of starboard, and clamped it to the starboard rail of my H26. The single handle dual function is the way to go, IMO. If there are seperate shift and throttle levers, it's possible to shift at high RPM's, not a good thing. A single lever eliminates that possibility. The picture shows the neutral position. Push forward to shift into forward, push further to accelerate. Opposite for reverse. The smaller lever is for adjusting the idle speed during warmup, and cannot be engaged unless the main lever is in neutral. With a tiller extension, I can dock the boat from the sternrail seat, and always keep my eyes facing in the direction of travel.
Attachments
Picure of cables
Dave, The cables are fastened to the underside of the seat, then sweep down alongside the post into the motorwell, where they loop around to the motor. So far no problems with kinks, even with the motor tilted up; all the turns have about 8" radius. My next project will be a rudder-to-motor link; I'll have to extend the motor mount aft an inch or two, so the motor can clear the well when turning. I made sure the cables are long enough for that.
Dave, The cables are fastened to the underside of the seat, then sweep down alongside the post into the motorwell, where they loop around to the motor. So far no problems with kinks, even with the motor tilted up; all the turns have about 8" radius. My next project will be a rudder-to-motor link; I'll have to extend the motor mount aft an inch or two, so the motor can clear the well when turning. I made sure the cables are long enough for that.
Attachments
Tom, Very Impressive!
Very impressive work Tom. This certainly seems like the way to go. The ability to operate everything from the S/R seat is great. I'll probably attempt the same project over the winter. The motor to tiller linkage also seems like a great idea too. Thanks for the photos. Regards, Bob.
Very impressive work Tom. This certainly seems like the way to go. The ability to operate everything from the S/R seat is great. I'll probably attempt the same project over the winter. The motor to tiller linkage also seems like a great idea too. Thanks for the photos. Regards, Bob.
Tom-Nice Job!!!
Tom, It looks great!! Now, do you have a step by step install procedure along with parts required? Do you have a problem with people sitting in that seat accidently knocking or interfering with the controls? Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Tom, It looks great!! Now, do you have a step by step install procedure along with parts required? Do you have a problem with people sitting in that seat accidently knocking or interfering with the controls? Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
Paul
Thanks, Paul. I'll try to take some more pictures and do some kind of step-by-step in the photo forum in the near future. Unfortunately, I didn't take too many pictures while doing the installation. As to bumping, or lines hanging up on it, that was a worry, but I've been out 6 or 7 times since adding the remote and so far no problems.
Thanks, Paul. I'll try to take some more pictures and do some kind of step-by-step in the photo forum in the near future. Unfortunately, I didn't take too many pictures while doing the installation. As to bumping, or lines hanging up on it, that was a worry, but I've been out 6 or 7 times since adding the remote and so far no problems.
- Status