Remedy for leaking Lewmar portholes

[robert dros]

I am asking any boat owner who had similar problems with leaking Lewmar portholes, the rubber seals are just not water-proof, resistant.

The previous owner used Silicone on the sealing rubber ! in other words you won't be able to open the portholes anymore!

I know we used Vaseline ( Petroleum Jelly) in the Merchant Navy on door seals, wonder if this the option to go on the sealing rubbers of the Lewmar portholes.
or is there another product that Lewmar recommends that won't destroy the rubber and the Plexiglass windows.
Cheers,
Rob

 

[rardiH36]

Hi Robert:

First of all, recognize that I don't have Lewmar ports on my 1980 Hunter. But if yours are the opening kind and if the gaskets that have failed are in recessed channels, then maybe this cut-and-paste recount from one of my posts five or so years ago might give you a low cost and relatively easy to do solution. Of course you may need to modify the concept to your own situation. My ports are still not leaking five/six years after the described fix:

==========================

" .... An inexpensive fix stopped the leaking and the fix looks like it will last. The plexiglass window ports on my boat are the type that swing open to the inside, hinging at the top. The original gaskets on the frame had become hard and compressed. What I did was:

- The original gaskets are affixed inside a channel all around the perimeter of the port frame against the which the plexiglass is dogged tight against. I left the old hard/brittle gaskets in the channel, but with a razor-sharp box cutter knife, I shaved these original gaskets flush with the outside of the channel.
- I then wiped the shaved original gaskets with lacquer thinner to clean off any dirt/grime/soap/wax and to "reactivate" the hard foam for the next step.
- I then applied a high quality stick-on gasket tape made by MD directly on top of the old shaved/cleaned gasket. (MD gasket tape is available at all hardware stores. Look for the smooth surface foam type -- not the porous foam stuff. It comes in a double band, and is hollow in the inside. The two sides neatly split when the two sides are pulled apart. Comes in brown and white colors.) An alternative is to go to your local auto store and look for self-stick window gasket products. Make sure that the two ends of the new gasket tape around the perimeter meet on the top side. Don't stretch out the stick-on gasket as it is applied.
- Dog tight and then open the port to check that the new gasket is aligned correctly.
- The self-adhesive needs pressure and time to really stick. So close and dog with moderate pressure the port. Leave for a while.

This solution might be worth a look-see for your situation. However suggest that you do only one port first to check if it works before doing the others. "

=====================

I am a somewhat concerned that your PO used silicone sealant in a misguided attempt to address the problem. This because silicone is really tough to remove. And often, even for years later, nothing will adhere over where it has been. After you shave off the silcone, you may need to wipe many times with acetone before new self-stick gasket will stick. And even then, possibly it won't.


regards,

 

[Stu Jackson]

This might be a good candidate for a Google search. There have been sooo many discussions about this issue that it boggles my mind. Like rardi, i don't have Lewmars, so I don't save bookmarks on the issue. IIRC, the issues are the port seals, the dog seals and primarily the fact that some of the frames leak from the horizontal joints on the outside. Good luck.

 

[gray125]

HunterOwners.com sells gaskets for Lewmar ports. If the dogs are leaking, Lewmar.com sells a kit.

 

[DougMc]

I used a heavy dose of vaseline on the seal and it solved the problem. That was ten years ago when they where new I did maybe three times and they have been maintenance free for the last five years.

 

[robert dros]

I used a heavy dose of vaseline on the seal and it solved the problem. That was ten years ago when they where new I did maybe three times and they have been maintenance free for the last five years.

Followed your advise Doug, seems to me the easy and practical solution!

 

[ben solomon]

I have the same portholes. There are two issues: one, the o rings in the latches (dogs) are old and need to be replaced or they need to be tightened. Two, the water is actually leaking from outside the porthole and finding its way inside via the dogs, or the porthole frame. I had both problems. The fix for the first issue: tighten the screws on the dogs themselves. There is a tiny cap in the center of each dog. Use a jeweler's flat screwdriver and pry off the center cap. There is a #2 Philips head screw in there. Tighten it a bit. Also, on the parts website, here, you can buy replacement o rings (I haven't gotten to that yet because the tightening worked). Then, take off the inside molding around the porthole and tighten all the screws holding the frame on. You will be surprised how many turns you can put on those. Due to heating and cooling, the screws tend to back out over time. While the molding is off, check to see if you can see light between the porthole and the hull of the boat. That can also be a source of leak.

Ben

 

[cajon409]

my guys use Dielectric silicone grease on all truck/car seals,including sun/moon roofs gasket. wipe down with windex or soap and water let dry.Put a LITTLE on and rub the gasket down. Works great,used it for years.

 

[robert dros]

I have the same portholes. There are two issues: one, the o rings in the latches (dogs) are old and need to be replaced or they need to be tightened. Two, the water is actually leaking from outside the porthole and finding its way inside via the dogs, or the porthole frame. I had both problems. The fix for the first issue: tighten the screws on the dogs themselves. There is a tiny cap in the center of each dog. Use a jeweler's flat screwdriver and pry off the center cap. There is a #2 Philips head screw in there. Tighten it a bit. Also, on the parts website, here, you can buy replacement o rings (I haven't gotten to that yet because the tightening worked). Then, take off the inside molding around the porthole and tighten all the screws holding the frame on. You will be surprised how many turns you can put on those. Due to heating and cooling, the screws tend to back out over time. While the molding is off, check to see if you can see light between the porthole and the hull of the boat. That can also be a source of leak. Ben

Thanks Ben,!
I will investigate that
Cheers
Rob

 

[bugsboat]

Talk to Lewmar and save yourself a lot of money. If you have the old type opening ports, there are two joints on each side of the port. Use a clear silicone sealant and seal these, and the interior joints also.

 

[amystic]

I used something called Magic Lube which is like Vaseline but is a silicone product. It stays flexible and helps keep the gaskets soft. You can get it for 10 bucks from Amazon. My lewmars leaked like sives but now do not leak. I also saw daylight thru the seams where the two aluminum frames meet and I uased a little clear silicone cailk and all is well. I am going to do everything I can on the cheap before I go to the trouble of ordering from lewmar and replacing the gasket material.

 

[Dave602]

You can use mineral oil on the rubber gaskets. I rejuvenated mine by going over and over each time we went down to the boat. Eventually they softened up and sealed well