Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oil

[planoron]

Well we just bought a H380 and are taking possession tomorrow. One thing I noticed is that the woodwork, while in great condition, is 15 yrs old and some areas just seem a little tired. Years ago we bought a used house and the kitchen cabinets certainly looked worn and faded in some areas. We wiped them down with a solution of vinegar and olive oil and I could not believe how they came back. Wondering if anybody here has tried it on their joinery.

Thanks in advance,

Ron

 

[Brian S]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

I would not use olive oil. Olive oil will spoil. For example, it's recommended to use mineral oil on butcher block cutting boards, but not olive oil. Not that the wood interior of your boat is like a cutting board, but you get the idea.

Clean it up and use teak oil. Semco has been recommended to me, but for wood below decks and not exposed to weather, Watco Teak Oil is available at home stores, and will do a good job.

If the wood you are talking about is exposed, that opens up a whole big can o' worms. You can do searches here and get plenty of opinions about oils, varnishes, Cetol, you name it.

But not olive oil.

 

[justsomeguy]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

I think the mineral oil is a good idea. Watco's okay, but it stinks a bit.

 

[Maine Sail]

I would just use a basic "lemon oil" or non-silicone furniture oil (always check the MSDS). Most of these formulations whether Formby's, Weiman, Parker & Bailey etc. are just a highly refined mineral oil with some lemon fragrance. Some, like Weiman, have UV inhibitors.

They are non-drying oils, which I personally prefer for interior teak... Dansih oils etc. are drying oils... Some folks use a high quality boiled linseed but this can get smelly and I find it much more sticky and prone to attract dust. You can always just use pure mineral oil too but be careful some of it not as pure as it would lead you to believe. At least one product I looked at a few years ago had some silicone in it...!!

 

[Chris Patterson]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

Dalys makes a fine teak oil that I have used to good results. Its varnish content is a tad higher than some and demands a little more care in application. Beautiful results to the winner though..

 

[JackK]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

The vinegar is a great start. Use a spray bottle of white vinegar to clean and eliminate any mold or mildew. After that, I used tongue oil on the unvarnished woodwork. It's a great preservative and has a nice soft finish. And a can of tongue oil from the home improvement store costs a fraction of teak oil at the boating supply store.

With any process, always find a small area to test before going all in. I suggest the interior of a cabinet door.

 

[Chief RA]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

Linseed is indeed a good interior oil but beware of using it outdoors. It will also turn dark, even black with sun exposure. I just use mineral oil inside or outside and has been fine for years of use. Keeping the brightwork up on my ol' Clipper Marine 26 was a lot of work. Looks like I won't be doing much oiling on the exterior of this boat but still a little inside. Chief

 

[planoron]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

Great replies all. I know what had surprised me the most with the old cabinets was the areas of wear that disappeared. The cabinets around the stove top had faded from steam/water and after a couple applications you couldn't even tell anything was ever wrong and the faded area was blended to the original. We have a long weekend so I will try a couple different things in some out of the way spots and let everybody know. My biggest concern is the water stains and wear areas on the nav station and high traffic areas.

Thanks

Ron

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

Plan,

Some folks like teak oil, others like varnish and, both work for the believers.

When I bought my C30, the interior wood was oiled, but not been re-oiled for some time before I took ownership. To clean the teak I found a product called, Snappy Teak; a two part stripper & cleaner. I tried other brands, but liked the look of unfinished teak I got from Snappy Teak. It was, for me easy to apply.

After my initial stripping & cleaning, I first used the teak oil, & it was like instant sex, the wood came up brilliantly. However, for the next two years & four applications later with oil, I decided I was unhappy with both the extra maintenance & the lack-luster look of oil over time.

So, I decided to re-strip the teak & apply a varnish coating as opposed to oil. The problem I found with oil was, that over a 4-6 month period, my wood would pick up dirt, dull & darkened soft wood pulp areas between the harder wood grains.

Oil is NOT a real sealant to your wood especially Teak plywood veneer wood such as bulkheads. Only varnish actually seals you wood from dirt, mildew & moisture. I know some will disagree with me on oil vs. varnish, but for the past 15 years now, I have no re-oiling or re-varnishing work to do. This cuts down on my maintenance time & material, allowing me more hours to concentrate on the more important issues, thus keeping my maintenance schedule current.

CR

 

[Chief RA]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

Cap'n Ron: Is more important issues beer drinking? If so, I approve this message! Chief

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

Chief,

Will you marry me?

CR

 

[Chris Patterson]

I varnished my interior. If I bang it, a little touch up and it is history. That really doesn't happen much.

 

[caguy]

Plan,
After my initial stripping & cleaning, I first used the teak oil, & it was like instant sex, the wood came up brilliantly.
CR

I Think Chantilly Lady would like that.

Plan,
However, for the next two years & four applications later with oil, I decided I was unhappy with both the extra maintenance & the lack-luster look of oil over time.
CR

but like sex, it get old rubbing the same lack-luster piece year after year.

I am so glad the Admiral doesn't read this forum! :naughty:

+1 on the varnish.

 

[Bob S]

Got a question for the woodworkers out there. Over the years I have been removing trim (solid teak) sanding and refinishing with 4-5 coats of Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane which I believe is what Catalina was doing on their boats in the mid 90's. It looks great and has stood up well. I have yet to do the louvered doors . My question lies with the bulkheads which are teak laminates. The veneer has discolored where the urethane has worn off. I also have an area that has darkened from water damage. The shower water was collecting on the countertop and the caulking dried up leaking through to the bulkhead. I originally thought it was my chain plate but when I rebed them the wood under was dry so I assume it was the shower water that caused the damaged. Either way I have to remove the old urethane to refinish but I'm afraid to sand it.

1. Can you chemically strip it without damaging it?
2. Is there a safe way to bleach out the dark spot?

 

[Marco Garcia]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

The Hunter 40.5 maintenance manual calls for Daly's teak oil. You can make it mate or gloss depending on how you apply it. Many other options available as above said.

 

[Steve Dion]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

I would also recommend using the Daly's Sea Fin for the interior. Much easier to apply than varnish and I think it is more durable. You can apply with a rag.

It is available on this site too.

 

[Brian S]

1. Can you chemically strip it without damaging it?
2. Is there a safe way to bleach out the dark spot?

I think I would strip it with a heat gun and a carbide scraper, and sand lightly. Don't want to burn through veneer.

I might try a bit of oxalic acid on the stained area, but this will be tough because you probably can't remove the wood from the boat. So, flushing with clean water to remove excess acid will be fun. I might consider using distilled water…

 

[woodster]

I would also recommend using the Daly's Sea Fin for the interior. Much easier to apply than varnish and I think it is more durable. You can apply with a rag.

It is available on this site too.

and to add to that clean it with LA's Totally Awesome

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Re: Rejuvenating Interior Woodwork with Vinegar and Olive Oi

Planoron,

As I mentioned before, there will be different opinions on re-doing your teak.

I personally would not use a heat gun & the time it takes to strip your teak(incl. veneer)especially close to fiberglass. The Snappy Teak I mentioned works great.

Part 1, you brush it on with cheap disposable foam brushes. After 10-15 minutes, brush on a second coat of Part 1. It will start to pudding up (purplish in color) & I usually use paper towels to remove the excess before applying part 2.

The magic is in part 2, the acid finisher. Your teak from part 1 will look like a darker grape jam color. Your first brushstroke with # 2 & immediately the wood will change to a light sandlewood color. You can go over it a second time if you want, but you won't believe how light golden it looks. To neutralize the acid base, a simple water & a sponge rinse will do it. You will be amazed by the color of the naked teak after drying.

For sanding, Snappy Teak softens the soft pulp of the wood, so only use a fine sand paper (on a block) for most of your bulkhead wood. Hand sanding lightly on all areas. You only want to knock down the soft pulp to the level of the hard wood. Too heavy sanding will result in grooves in your wood.

The last time I used Snappy Teak, I had to order it via the internet.

But I ask you, do you want to work hard, when you can work smart.

CR

 

[Bob S]

CR
thanks for the tip. Looks like West Marine carries it. Checked online and it's deceiving. Everyone shows two bottles but in reality they are selling either part #1 or part #2. Figure I'll go to West Marine and just pick it up.
Bob