The grey Plastic port light lenses on my old hunter are cloudy. Short of replacing them has anyone tried one of the Headlight restored kits they sell for cars. Used the. Turtle wax kit on one of my old beach car I use to truck my sailing gear around with and had remarkably good results. Anyone think it would work on my old hunter? How about the hatches?
Rejuvenate port light lenses?
- Thread starter Nelsonhow
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Good ideas. Also toothpaste is suggested, but you have to be careful about whether or not to use the right flavor...
If the cloudiness is due to only surface oxidation, yes rejuvination willl help to make presentable again. I did this for several years. Suggest start off with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper (use wet with water) then say 1500 or 2000. Then polish with a plastic restorer of the type you are thinking. Or even a polish/wax willl work. But recognize this restore isn't the same as new plexiglass. You will need to re-polish every several months to maintain the improvement. Also, after 30+years the "cloudiness" or other damage may now be much deeper than just the surface. Then nothing can be done to restore. The host of this site, SBO, does have very good prices for new lenses.
I just used a kit I purchased at an auto parts store and it worked like a charm. All the components were included. All I needed was a variable speed drill. Took me about 15 minutes to do 4 portlights.
I replace my 6 larger Grey Port lenses two years ago and they are already showing signs of clouding. So this summer, when I replaced my 5 smaller ones, I made some shades to protect my newest lenses.
I placed a piece of silver bubble insulation between the lenses and the screen when I close the ports. This serves several functions. It keeps the weather and UV off the lenses, darkens the cabin and helps with faiding of the upholstery and darkening of the teak and also keeps the heat out. Since the shields are located between the lenses and the screen, they cant blow away.
I used the screen frame as a template to cut the shields. I purchased a roll of the Silver foil bubble insulation at Lowes. Rolls come in different sizes but the 16" x 12ft roll made 11 shades and 6 spares. Then I moved to my hatches and made 4 shields to fit the hatches. I just press them in tight and they stay up.
Also used the rest in the cooler box to keep the counter from sweating. I also lined the A/C Cabinet with it to keep the noise down and to prevent sweating.I am sure you will find plenty of uses for the rest of the roll. About 13.00 box for the roll.
I placed a piece of silver bubble insulation between the lenses and the screen when I close the ports. This serves several functions. It keeps the weather and UV off the lenses, darkens the cabin and helps with faiding of the upholstery and darkening of the teak and also keeps the heat out. Since the shields are located between the lenses and the screen, they cant blow away.
I used the screen frame as a template to cut the shields. I purchased a roll of the Silver foil bubble insulation at Lowes. Rolls come in different sizes but the 16" x 12ft roll made 11 shades and 6 spares. Then I moved to my hatches and made 4 shields to fit the hatches. I just press them in tight and they stay up.
Also used the rest in the cooler box to keep the counter from sweating. I also lined the A/C Cabinet with it to keep the noise down and to prevent sweating.I am sure you will find plenty of uses for the rest of the roll. About 13.00 box for the roll.
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Great idea to protect the lenses from uv when not on the boat.
I also have been disappointed that my replacement port lenses just a few years later already had begun to cloud and oxidize. I would have thought that the newer plastic formulations would be better than the 1980's originals.
Hi,
I'm sure this has been covered b4 . . . Fuller Brush makes replacement portlights. Much better than the originals or the other brand out there for parts. The lens are true and 5/8" thick. The seals are superior as well. Caveat, no drains and you will get water into the cabin when you open the lens. And you will need the ABI portlight chain to hold open the lens. I installed two of the smaller 5x12 assemblies on my 1980 36. I am going to replace the 7x15 with Fuller due to hinge issues.
Now the real reason I am posting. The last time I checked Fuller did not make the large size 8x18. So, I'm wondering if any others are disappointed with the portlights on their boat. And maybe if enough interest, getting Fuller to produce the larger 8x18 portlight. In my wildest dreams??
http://www.fuller.com/marine
Thanks
Tom
s/v Driftwood
Panama
I'm sure this has been covered b4 . . . Fuller Brush makes replacement portlights. Much better than the originals or the other brand out there for parts. The lens are true and 5/8" thick. The seals are superior as well. Caveat, no drains and you will get water into the cabin when you open the lens. And you will need the ABI portlight chain to hold open the lens. I installed two of the smaller 5x12 assemblies on my 1980 36. I am going to replace the 7x15 with Fuller due to hinge issues.
Now the real reason I am posting. The last time I checked Fuller did not make the large size 8x18. So, I'm wondering if any others are disappointed with the portlights on their boat. And maybe if enough interest, getting Fuller to produce the larger 8x18 portlight. In my wildest dreams??
http://www.fuller.com/marine
Thanks
Tom
s/v Driftwood
Panama
NFM . . . very nice, very shiny, very expensive. And probably won't add a dime to the vessel's value.
The Fullers, at least, are affordable.
The Fullers, at least, are affordable.
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