My refrigerator drops out itermittently. After flipping the breaker on the switch panel it seems to reset and return to normal operation. Sometimes it will happen on consecutive days and other times it goes for weeks before recurring. Its always at the dock under shorepower. The refrigerator is always running off the main 12 V bus so the only thing I could think of is that maybe the battery charger is causing a voltage spike or something. Anyone have any ideas?
Refrigerator drops out intermittently
- Thread starter DJH6127
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I would have the pressure tested.
Contact a refrigeration specialist. It may be your pressure (too high/too low). Just a guess but a good start to have a reefer guy check it out.
Contact a refrigeration specialist. It may be your pressure (too high/too low). Just a guess but a good start to have a reefer guy check it out.
Probably not a spike
Unless your batteries are really small they will absorbe any spikes and noise from the AC charger side of the house. Is there anything else attached to the reefer breaker? Perhaps it is draging the voltage down and causing the control unit to protect the compressor. That is one of the things the control unit does BTW, shut down the unit when it senses low voltage for more than a brief period of time. It could be that a PO attached some other electrical load to the breaker (either side BTW) and you will have to look at the back side to see if there is any hanky-panky going on. Also check for voltage drops on the supply and return side of the circuit. With the unit running measure the voltage at each connection along the circuit. One probe on on one side of the connection and one on the other. Set the voltmeter to its 2 volt range. Any voltage drop over 0.2 volts for any connection needs looking into. while your there check for voltage avalable at the breaker. Run the unit and test between the ground terminals on the batteries and the breaker (either side) You should see at least 12 volts and would like to see battery voltage/charger voltage. I had a similar problem that I traced to the placement of the cooling water pump. it would loose it's prime any time we where on a port tack and heeled over past 15 deg once the pump turned off. A reall head scratcher cause once we changed tacks it would start working again. Appeared to be totaly random till I happened to notice it running dry one day. your problem is at the dock though so perhaps you have a pesky fish or crab or duck that is playing games with your cooling water inlet??? Just a SWAG.
Unless your batteries are really small they will absorbe any spikes and noise from the AC charger side of the house. Is there anything else attached to the reefer breaker? Perhaps it is draging the voltage down and causing the control unit to protect the compressor. That is one of the things the control unit does BTW, shut down the unit when it senses low voltage for more than a brief period of time. It could be that a PO attached some other electrical load to the breaker (either side BTW) and you will have to look at the back side to see if there is any hanky-panky going on. Also check for voltage drops on the supply and return side of the circuit. With the unit running measure the voltage at each connection along the circuit. One probe on on one side of the connection and one on the other. Set the voltmeter to its 2 volt range. Any voltage drop over 0.2 volts for any connection needs looking into. while your there check for voltage avalable at the breaker. Run the unit and test between the ground terminals on the batteries and the breaker (either side) You should see at least 12 volts and would like to see battery voltage/charger voltage. I had a similar problem that I traced to the placement of the cooling water pump. it would loose it's prime any time we where on a port tack and heeled over past 15 deg once the pump turned off. A reall head scratcher cause once we changed tacks it would start working again. Appeared to be totaly random till I happened to notice it running dry one day. your problem is at the dock though so perhaps you have a pesky fish or crab or duck that is playing games with your cooling water inlet??? Just a SWAG.
One other thought
I had a similar problem. My fridge's compressor would stop and start after returning to the dock after a sail, but only after plugging into shore power. I finally traced it to a new battery charger/inverter. The Freedom 25 had recently burned out and I had replaced it with a Freedom 30. Apparently the charge voltage was slightly higher on the new charger, and was just high enough then the refigeration cutoff circuit allowed. If I recall correctly, the Adler Barbour units shut down if the voltage exceeds 15.5V. Once the float charge was reached, the compressor ran fine. My solution was simple. I turned off the refigerator breaker when I got back to the dock. Once the remote panel indicates the charge voltage is dropping, I turn the refrigerator back on.
I had a similar problem. My fridge's compressor would stop and start after returning to the dock after a sail, but only after plugging into shore power. I finally traced it to a new battery charger/inverter. The Freedom 25 had recently burned out and I had replaced it with a Freedom 30. Apparently the charge voltage was slightly higher on the new charger, and was just high enough then the refigeration cutoff circuit allowed. If I recall correctly, the Adler Barbour units shut down if the voltage exceeds 15.5V. Once the float charge was reached, the compressor ran fine. My solution was simple. I turned off the refigerator breaker when I got back to the dock. Once the remote panel indicates the charge voltage is dropping, I turn the refrigerator back on.
We replaced the electronic module
This may or may not have anything to do with your problem, but here is another possibility. On our 40.5, we have replaced the electronic module on both our refrigerator and freezer. The part number on our boat for the module is AB3016, is probably different from your boat, but it could be the same problem. Our refrigerator would just shut off and the eventually wouldn't turn on when flipping the circuit breaker. In both cases, replacing the part solved the problem. Unfortunately, the part is pricey ($400 or so), so it's an expensive trial by error method. But after speaking with the manufacturer about the problem, they were pretty sure what it was.
This may or may not have anything to do with your problem, but here is another possibility. On our 40.5, we have replaced the electronic module on both our refrigerator and freezer. The part number on our boat for the module is AB3016, is probably different from your boat, but it could be the same problem. Our refrigerator would just shut off and the eventually wouldn't turn on when flipping the circuit breaker. In both cases, replacing the part solved the problem. Unfortunately, the part is pricey ($400 or so), so it's an expensive trial by error method. But after speaking with the manufacturer about the problem, they were pretty sure what it was.
I am not sure of what type your frig yoy have, but
if is a older Cold Machine model(Alder Barbour with a Danfoss 4 pin compressor) the replacement can be found at: http://frigoboat.com/home.html
if is a older Cold Machine model(Alder Barbour with a Danfoss 4 pin compressor) the replacement can be found at: http://frigoboat.com/home.html
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