My 35.5 has a Norcold refrigeration unit. The unit was installed in 1995 when the vessel was comissioned. We've just moved to a marina which includes electricity in the slip rental. Until now, the refrigerator was only turned on when we sailed. Does anyone have any service life experience with these units when put into 24/7 operation?
Refrigeration use
- Thread starter Kailani
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My Norcold has been plugged in...
...and running all summer, all day, every day for 5 months each year that the I have had the boat - 10 seasons. (I hate the 24/7 terminology. Probably because I was in the IT business for 30 years and that became the "buzz word" of the last few years).
...and running all summer, all day, every day for 5 months each year that the I have had the boat - 10 seasons. (I hate the 24/7 terminology. Probably because I was in the IT business for 30 years and that became the "buzz word" of the last few years).
24/7-12
I never turn my refrigerator off. Can't keep the beer cold that way. Besides we leave butter, mayo, cheese, etc., in it. Refrigerators don't use to much electricity unless the have a big air leak.
I never turn my refrigerator off. Can't keep the beer cold that way. Besides we leave butter, mayo, cheese, etc., in it. Refrigerators don't use to much electricity unless the have a big air leak.
12 Years
I just bought an 87 Hunter 40 with a Norcold reefer that the previous owner claims to have run 24/7 365 since the boat was new. I leave it plugged in all of the time except when I go out for an extended sail when I transfer everything to the Icebox and run only that unit.(no sense in running 2 units off of batteries) You shold get plenty of life out of it, and it only seems to take less than 2A.
I just bought an 87 Hunter 40 with a Norcold reefer that the previous owner claims to have run 24/7 365 since the boat was new. I leave it plugged in all of the time except when I go out for an extended sail when I transfer everything to the Icebox and run only that unit.(no sense in running 2 units off of batteries) You shold get plenty of life out of it, and it only seems to take less than 2A.
Mine ran continuously for nearly 20 years...
Till I had to leave it off while the boat was out of the water for several weeks for some bottom work. That old compressor just didn't have what it took any more to start back up again. And that's typical of all refrigerators and freezers--marine AND household...'cuz the hardest work any compressor has to do is cool off a warm box. Leaving it off and starting it up again is the worst thing you can do...it'll shorten the life of the compressor by at least 50%. Leave 'em running continuously, they'll run forever...leave 'em off for any length of time, and they'll die.
Till I had to leave it off while the boat was out of the water for several weeks for some bottom work. That old compressor just didn't have what it took any more to start back up again. And that's typical of all refrigerators and freezers--marine AND household...'cuz the hardest work any compressor has to do is cool off a warm box. Leaving it off and starting it up again is the worst thing you can do...it'll shorten the life of the compressor by at least 50%. Leave 'em running continuously, they'll run forever...leave 'em off for any length of time, and they'll die.
Great responses!
Not to annoy anyone with high-tech analogies (sorry Paul), but the same goes for hard drives. Leave them spin and they'll last a long time. I'll do the same with the Norcold. Now we can store the beer, butter, mayo...
Not to annoy anyone with high-tech analogies (sorry Paul), but the same goes for hard drives. Leave them spin and they'll last a long time. I'll do the same with the Norcold. Now we can store the beer, butter, mayo...
Leave the beer, don't leave perishables...
I learned that lesson after a power failure on the dock that blew the main breaker on my boat cost me 4 VERY expensive filet mignons I'd kept in the freezer compartment. 4 days in the summer heat later when I came back, PHEW! One more thing...if there isn't a separate 12v breaker for the fridge, install one...and make sure it's off when you leave the boat. 'Cuz dual voltage fridges automatically default to 12v when the AC power is removed. If the dock power is off for any length of time, the fridge can completely drain your battery.
I learned that lesson after a power failure on the dock that blew the main breaker on my boat cost me 4 VERY expensive filet mignons I'd kept in the freezer compartment. 4 days in the summer heat later when I came back, PHEW! One more thing...if there isn't a separate 12v breaker for the fridge, install one...and make sure it's off when you leave the boat. 'Cuz dual voltage fridges automatically default to 12v when the AC power is removed. If the dock power is off for any length of time, the fridge can completely drain your battery.
Adler/Barbour cold machine
I have an Adler Barbour Cold Machine and always turn off when leaving boat & back on return (every 2 weeks for so) for * less wear & tear = last longer * plates ice up when left on too long does this 'leave it on' advise apply to this type of unit as well (I'm not familiar with a Norcold)?
I have an Adler Barbour Cold Machine and always turn off when leaving boat & back on return (every 2 weeks for so) for * less wear & tear = last longer * plates ice up when left on too long does this 'leave it on' advise apply to this type of unit as well (I'm not familiar with a Norcold)?
Peggy
That's exactly what happened to me, a storm blew thru during the week, knocked out power, the inverter tripped the input breaker to protect itself, drained the battery and lost all I had in the fridge! :~(
That's exactly what happened to me, a storm blew thru during the week, knocked out power, the inverter tripped the input breaker to protect itself, drained the battery and lost all I had in the fridge! :~(
Adding 12v breaker to fridge?
Peggy's suggestion of adding a 12v breaker to the fridge circuit sounds good but I'm not sure how that system works. My 376 has a A/B unit and I assumed it always runs off the battery and when plugged into dock power the charging system simply keeps the battery charged. Are the A/B units dual votage or do they operate as described above? I too leave my unit running but have had problems of battery overload when the dock power tripped off.
Peggy's suggestion of adding a 12v breaker to the fridge circuit sounds good but I'm not sure how that system works. My 376 has a A/B unit and I assumed it always runs off the battery and when plugged into dock power the charging system simply keeps the battery charged. Are the A/B units dual votage or do they operate as described above? I too leave my unit running but have had problems of battery overload when the dock power tripped off.
A/B
is 12v. Charger/inverter keeps power to it using 110v. So Peggy's point (as I understand it) doesn't really apply to these units, they are not dual voltage units. Also, A/B units have a low voltage shutoff, below a certain point (9v I think) the unit won't start up. Although the refer will really drain down the batter, the refer alone isn't going to completely drain your battery. I'm on my boat a lot so I leave mine on 24/7, if I loose power and it spoils I'll deal with it. That's what you have to do in the house if/when there's a complete power failure for long enough.
is 12v. Charger/inverter keeps power to it using 110v. So Peggy's point (as I understand it) doesn't really apply to these units, they are not dual voltage units. Also, A/B units have a low voltage shutoff, below a certain point (9v I think) the unit won't start up. Although the refer will really drain down the batter, the refer alone isn't going to completely drain your battery. I'm on my boat a lot so I leave mine on 24/7, if I loose power and it spoils I'll deal with it. That's what you have to do in the house if/when there's a complete power failure for long enough.
I'm a plumber, not an electrician, but...
Seems to me that if a wire goes directly to a battery, there's no reason why it can't go to a breaker first, and THEN to a battery. I THINK that's how everything that's already ON a breaker is wired. That said, I have no idea whether the A-B fridges are 12v only, or dual voltage as Norcolds are. Actually, Don...the last time we had a major power failure in my subdivision we we didn't lose much. We bought all the dry ice we could find, which saved most of our frozen foods...and the rest wasn't allowed to spoil...we had the cul-de-sac equivilant of dock parties and ate it!
Seems to me that if a wire goes directly to a battery, there's no reason why it can't go to a breaker first, and THEN to a battery. I THINK that's how everything that's already ON a breaker is wired. That said, I have no idea whether the A-B fridges are 12v only, or dual voltage as Norcolds are. Actually, Don...the last time we had a major power failure in my subdivision we we didn't lose much. We bought all the dry ice we could find, which saved most of our frozen foods...and the rest wasn't allowed to spoil...we had the cul-de-sac equivilant of dock parties and ate it!
Never to the battery
I would not recommend wiring anything directly to the battery, especially without a breaker. All wiring should go to the breaker panel and get their power from there. If you have wiring going straight to the battery with no breakers, you are asking for trouble.
I would not recommend wiring anything directly to the battery, especially without a breaker. All wiring should go to the breaker panel and get their power from there. If you have wiring going straight to the battery with no breakers, you are asking for trouble.
Just to clarify...
I wasn't saying that they're not wired through a breaker, mine is and I expect most every one is if the installer follows the installation instructions. David, I'd bet money the unit on your 386 is wired through a breaker, probably on the main panel. What I was saying is that the A/B units aren't dual voltage...they only operate on the 12v side of the house. I think Peggy was suggesting that on a dual voltage unit one could eliminate the 12v side by flipping the breaker when they are away. Then, if you lost 110v supply, the 12v side wouldn't run continuously. This isn't an option with an A/B unit. If you turn off the 12v breaker, you turn off the unit.
I wasn't saying that they're not wired through a breaker, mine is and I expect most every one is if the installer follows the installation instructions. David, I'd bet money the unit on your 386 is wired through a breaker, probably on the main panel. What I was saying is that the A/B units aren't dual voltage...they only operate on the 12v side of the house. I think Peggy was suggesting that on a dual voltage unit one could eliminate the 12v side by flipping the breaker when they are away. Then, if you lost 110v supply, the 12v side wouldn't run continuously. This isn't an option with an A/B unit. If you turn off the 12v breaker, you turn off the unit.
A mod to protect battery
I'm sure Don is correct about 12v only operation of an A/B unit. To protect the battery when away from the boat, if there is a loss of 110v power, a 110v soleniod ( normally open)could be installed in the hot wire to the fridge so that a loss of 110v would open the 12v circuit saving the battery from overload. You would have to install an override switch to restore that circuit when you want to operate on the battery. There may be combo type solenoid/switches that would simplify this install, a good electronic store would know this stuff. I'm going to look into it, those batteries are to expensive to replace.
I'm sure Don is correct about 12v only operation of an A/B unit. To protect the battery when away from the boat, if there is a loss of 110v power, a 110v soleniod ( normally open)could be installed in the hot wire to the fridge so that a loss of 110v would open the 12v circuit saving the battery from overload. You would have to install an override switch to restore that circuit when you want to operate on the battery. There may be combo type solenoid/switches that would simplify this install, a good electronic store would know this stuff. I'm going to look into it, those batteries are to expensive to replace.
leave it on?
Adler/Barbour cold machine I have an Adler Barbour Cold Machine and always turn off when leaving boat & back on when I return (every 2 weeks for so) for * less wear & tear = last longer * plates ice up when left on too long does this 'leave it on' advise apply to this type of unit as well (I'm not familiar with a Norcold)?
Adler/Barbour cold machine I have an Adler Barbour Cold Machine and always turn off when leaving boat & back on when I return (every 2 weeks for so) for * less wear & tear = last longer * plates ice up when left on too long does this 'leave it on' advise apply to this type of unit as well (I'm not familiar with a Norcold)?
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