I'm in the process of Refitting the interior of An Alberg 37' this includes removing the cabin sole adding some additional support and replacing it. The original plywood became warped and damaged a bloody shame as that 3/4 inch teak & holly faced ply is"nt cheap. Am currently on the hard for over a year now as I had quite a bit of work to do on the hull. Have noticed some ill results from being on the stands for so long; a starboard bow stringer has come free and have noticed places where there are gaps between my bulkheads and cabin liner nothing too serious just add them to my to do list. It does make me wonder though about refitting the cabin sole or adding any cross supports with the boat not being in her natural state on the water. As with any flooring I understand that a certain gap should be left where the floor butts against a solid surface to allow for wood expansion but in this case I have no Idea how much my boat will flex as she gathers moisture and settles it when I launch. Any Advice ???
Refitting Cabin Sole (better to do it in the water)
- Thread starter rickbarr
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It would seem to me that the boat was built on land so there is no reason it needs to be in the water to rebuild her, I would reconcider your stands & blocking...Dale
cabin sole
We were going to redo the sole using Lonseal while on the hard. For the same reasons you mentioned, decided it be more prudent to do it in the water. It would be much easier if the floor boards could be removed, but the cabin would have to be gutted - too much work!
We were going to redo the sole using Lonseal while on the hard. For the same reasons you mentioned, decided it be more prudent to do it in the water. It would be much easier if the floor boards could be removed, but the cabin would have to be gutted - too much work!
Scott: I would have to agree with you. The older boats had the cabin sole put in first and the cabinets/settees were install later. It would be impossible to take the sole without removing most of the interior.
Dale your right about the way they blocked me boat, I was working out of town when she was hauled out and when I got back I gave the yard fellas a proper cursing about how she was blocked, takes less than ten minutes to walk around a boat and give her a few knocks with your palm to see where she's stiff enough to take a stand they never bothered to do that. I should have said something to the yard manager before they hauled her. It's a point to remember these old hulls are thick but there are long expanses between the bulkheads that are not supported.
Yes I'm going to have to take apart my berths and work under my bulkheads to fit the new sole, it's not going to be easy as most of it is tabbed to the hull but it must be done. Thanks for the advise. I've decided to make the sole out of fiberglass. Lay up 8 layers of matt and roving with polyester in 3ft by 6ft sheets (has to fit thru the companion way) then overlay it with 1/4 inch teak and holly. Will do it on the hard. Am not lookin forward to climbing up and down the ladder 20 times a day but it's tourist season now and I'll end up having to give up me right foot to find dockage that will allow me to work on the boat this time of the year. Appreciate all the feedback.
Yes I'm going to have to take apart my berths and work under my bulkheads to fit the new sole, it's not going to be easy as most of it is tabbed to the hull but it must be done. Thanks for the advise. I've decided to make the sole out of fiberglass. Lay up 8 layers of matt and roving with polyester in 3ft by 6ft sheets (has to fit thru the companion way) then overlay it with 1/4 inch teak and holly. Will do it on the hard. Am not lookin forward to climbing up and down the ladder 20 times a day but it's tourist season now and I'll end up having to give up me right foot to find dockage that will allow me to work on the boat this time of the year. Appreciate all the feedback.
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