We have an '86 H23.Recently I stripped the tiller by sanding and carefully scraping the old finish off. I'm ready to coat it - any suggestions what to use? I was going to use polyurethane - have used it on furniture etc. Is there something better? I checked the archives but didn't find any advice.. Thanks!
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Tom Wootton
SAIL magazine April '02...
...has an article about brightwork that recommends an epoxy undercoat for durability, and a varnish overcoat to protect the epoxy from UV. It's supposed to last longer that way than varnish alone, and touching up is supposedly easier too. I'm going to try this next time.
...has an article about brightwork that recommends an epoxy undercoat for durability, and a varnish overcoat to protect the epoxy from UV. It's supposed to last longer that way than varnish alone, and touching up is supposedly easier too. I'm going to try this next time.
UV Protection!
Jack: There are many products that will do a great job on your tiller. 8-10 coats of varnish will look great. Cetol will be good too. There is a extremely good finish called Bristol. What ever you use be sure that it has UV protection. Once you get your tiller refinished, be sure you have a cover for it. A good Sunbrella cover and be sure to use it when you are NOT sailing the boat. Your tiller will look good for years to come. PS: Not a bad idea to remove it during the winter.
Jack: There are many products that will do a great job on your tiller. 8-10 coats of varnish will look great. Cetol will be good too. There is a extremely good finish called Bristol. What ever you use be sure that it has UV protection. Once you get your tiller refinished, be sure you have a cover for it. A good Sunbrella cover and be sure to use it when you are NOT sailing the boat. Your tiller will look good for years to come. PS: Not a bad idea to remove it during the winter.
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David
Tiller
Jack, I have used Epifanes varnish on one of my small antique wood boats. It has great UV protection and if applied properly gives better than showroom appearance. Available at West Marine and other outlets. The downside is the cost and it is very labor intensive. A minimum of six coats needs to be applied.
Jack, I have used Epifanes varnish on one of my small antique wood boats. It has great UV protection and if applied properly gives better than showroom appearance. Available at West Marine and other outlets. The downside is the cost and it is very labor intensive. A minimum of six coats needs to be applied.
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Bill O'Donovan
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mike
remove it
I don't use a tiller cover. I have it attached with a simple wing nut and bolt so when I'm not sailing I remove the tiller and put it in the cabin. Finish stays finnnneeeee.
I don't use a tiller cover. I have it attached with a simple wing nut and bolt so when I'm not sailing I remove the tiller and put it in the cabin. Finish stays finnnneeeee.
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Kevin Keen
Spar Varnish or Salad Dressing
Jack: When the tiller is not in use I have a sunbrella cover on it. For outdoor wood, use spar varnish. Plain varnish is for indoor use. Spar vanish has UV protection, whereas, vanish doesn't. (The secret chemical is spruce or pine tree oil.) Practical Sailor magazine recently had strong recommendations for Z-Spar Capitan's Varnish which I too recommend. You'll need about 5 coats. Keep it covered when not in use and you won't have to recoat it, which can be as much as every 6 months. Sooner or later you so many costs you need to strip and start all over again. Cetol is a good product, you won't find it slippery but the dull finish is not "Bristol fashion." Now, if you don't want a slippery tiller, and who does, mix 3 parts olive oil and 1 part white vinegar. I use this on all the teak on the boat, especially the handholds and the stupid-useless-cockpit-teak-rails. It is environmentally friendly and goes well with a tossed salad. The Spar varnish is for the plywood main hatch which I use when the boat is idle. (I don't leave the teak hatch outside exposed to the elements all the time!!) - Kevin.
Jack: When the tiller is not in use I have a sunbrella cover on it. For outdoor wood, use spar varnish. Plain varnish is for indoor use. Spar vanish has UV protection, whereas, vanish doesn't. (The secret chemical is spruce or pine tree oil.) Practical Sailor magazine recently had strong recommendations for Z-Spar Capitan's Varnish which I too recommend. You'll need about 5 coats. Keep it covered when not in use and you won't have to recoat it, which can be as much as every 6 months. Sooner or later you so many costs you need to strip and start all over again. Cetol is a good product, you won't find it slippery but the dull finish is not "Bristol fashion." Now, if you don't want a slippery tiller, and who does, mix 3 parts olive oil and 1 part white vinegar. I use this on all the teak on the boat, especially the handholds and the stupid-useless-cockpit-teak-rails. It is environmentally friendly and goes well with a tossed salad. The Spar varnish is for the plywood main hatch which I use when the boat is idle. (I don't leave the teak hatch outside exposed to the elements all the time!!) - Kevin.
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Jim Maroldo
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Kevin Keen
No April's Fool Joke
Jim: The secret ingredient in the 1 part vinegar: 3 parts olive oil is the vinegar. It works as a cleaner for Decks, Lexan, Windows, Brass, and left overnight in the head will remove salt deposits. I think you will find the Cetol will last more than one season easily. For boatdeck woodwork the 3 choices are spar varnish, Cetol, or the Italian salad dressing recipe above. Guess which is cheapest. - Kevin.
Jim: The secret ingredient in the 1 part vinegar: 3 parts olive oil is the vinegar. It works as a cleaner for Decks, Lexan, Windows, Brass, and left overnight in the head will remove salt deposits. I think you will find the Cetol will last more than one season easily. For boatdeck woodwork the 3 choices are spar varnish, Cetol, or the Italian salad dressing recipe above. Guess which is cheapest. - Kevin.
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Tim Schaaf
A vote for Epifanes, and a useful varnishing tip!
I have great luck with Epifanes, which holds up beautifully in the unrelenting sunshine of the Baja. I never thin it, but a friend gave me a great tip on how to make it "flow" in warm, sunny weather. Otherwise, the stuff was so thick that I really had to work hard not to have any uneven spots. The trick is to put the varnish in the refrigerator the night before! Keep it there while you do the job, only removing it to refill your varnish container. The varnish stays cool while you are applying it, just like on a cool day, and it flows beautifully. Obviously, don't try the freezer!!!
I have great luck with Epifanes, which holds up beautifully in the unrelenting sunshine of the Baja. I never thin it, but a friend gave me a great tip on how to make it "flow" in warm, sunny weather. Otherwise, the stuff was so thick that I really had to work hard not to have any uneven spots. The trick is to put the varnish in the refrigerator the night before! Keep it there while you do the job, only removing it to refill your varnish container. The varnish stays cool while you are applying it, just like on a cool day, and it flows beautifully. Obviously, don't try the freezer!!!
Just did mine with Skipper's varnish
This is the West Marine generic equivalent to the more expensive Captain's varnish. I used seven coats. The first coat was cut 50% with thinner to improve penetration. I sanded between coats with 280-300 grit, wiped down with a dry rag and then a tack cloth to pick up the last bits of dust. For each coat, I poured out just enough varnish into a jar so the varnish in the can didn't dry out. I used disposable bristle brushes so I had a new brush each time, and strained the varnish for the last two coats. I also hung the tiller vertically using the hole for the tiller extension so I could get at all sides without having to touch it. It was tedious but the results are worth it. I store the tiller below when it's not in use so I can keep the varnish alive for a few years. Then, all I'll have to do is sand and revarnish the last two coats. Peter H23 "Raven"
This is the West Marine generic equivalent to the more expensive Captain's varnish. I used seven coats. The first coat was cut 50% with thinner to improve penetration. I sanded between coats with 280-300 grit, wiped down with a dry rag and then a tack cloth to pick up the last bits of dust. For each coat, I poured out just enough varnish into a jar so the varnish in the can didn't dry out. I used disposable bristle brushes so I had a new brush each time, and strained the varnish for the last two coats. I also hung the tiller vertically using the hole for the tiller extension so I could get at all sides without having to touch it. It was tedious but the results are worth it. I store the tiller below when it's not in use so I can keep the varnish alive for a few years. Then, all I'll have to do is sand and revarnish the last two coats. Peter H23 "Raven"
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