We recently purchased a 1990 Oceanis 350. The teak handrails and teak cockpit seats had not been taken care of and are grey & weathered. We've sanded and oiled the handrails and now my wife would like to do the teak in the cockpit seats. To me I think they look fine weathered and more than that, I think it would be very difficult to do with the rubber stripping between the teak slats. The teak looks like it's weathered down so that the rubber between the teak is actually a little higher which would make sanding difficult plus I'd be concerned about damaging the rubber. Even if we were successful cleaing up the teak I'd think oiling it would leave us with a oily bum after sitting on them. Any one attempted to sand & refinish the teak in the cockpit? Anyone want to back me up that it looks great weathered? Thanks, Bob
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Sorry Bob, I side with your wife...
Bob, we have a 2001 Beneteau 361 and have "oiled" the teak and it is absolutey Beneteau Beautiful. I like the weathered look of the full deck on the Jenneau but only becasue it is the full deck that it looks so nice. The weathered look on just certain areas tend to look as if it is "neglected" as opposed to the quaint "weathered" look. Just because the term oil is used in applying the teak oil does not mean it will stain your butt. We do (oil) our teak in the cockpit area once a year and it takes about 2 days to dry and then it is just like dried varnish from that point on. As to the black rubber between the teak, we use a one inch brush that fits the width of the teak slats and then just wipe up any teak oil that gets on the rubber, it won't harm the black rubber. Believe me you (or at least your wife)will really appreciate how nice it looks when you are finished. Sorry I couldn't be more supportive of you preference but look at it this way if your wife is happy that goes along way to good sailing. Good luck, Rich
Bob, we have a 2001 Beneteau 361 and have "oiled" the teak and it is absolutey Beneteau Beautiful. I like the weathered look of the full deck on the Jenneau but only becasue it is the full deck that it looks so nice. The weathered look on just certain areas tend to look as if it is "neglected" as opposed to the quaint "weathered" look. Just because the term oil is used in applying the teak oil does not mean it will stain your butt. We do (oil) our teak in the cockpit area once a year and it takes about 2 days to dry and then it is just like dried varnish from that point on. As to the black rubber between the teak, we use a one inch brush that fits the width of the teak slats and then just wipe up any teak oil that gets on the rubber, it won't harm the black rubber. Believe me you (or at least your wife)will really appreciate how nice it looks when you are finished. Sorry I couldn't be more supportive of you preference but look at it this way if your wife is happy that goes along way to good sailing. Good luck, Rich
cockpit teak
Bob, I'm with you. I applied 3 coats of Cetol to the cockpit teak, and it looked great for about six months, then began to crack and chip. I touched it up. Good for another six months, then it began to crack even worse than the first time. I put on two more coats but they only lasted about four or five months, and the cracks began to appear again. In the meantime, the owner of the boat next to mine had the Cetol removed from the teak cockpit seats. I was amazed how good it looked. Its starting to grey up now and still looks good. The best thing you can do for unfinished teak is to dump a bucket of saltwater on it every day. I'm going to have mine stripped and leave them way for awhile to see how it goes.
Bob, I'm with you. I applied 3 coats of Cetol to the cockpit teak, and it looked great for about six months, then began to crack and chip. I touched it up. Good for another six months, then it began to crack even worse than the first time. I put on two more coats but they only lasted about four or five months, and the cracks began to appear again. In the meantime, the owner of the boat next to mine had the Cetol removed from the teak cockpit seats. I was amazed how good it looked. Its starting to grey up now and still looks good. The best thing you can do for unfinished teak is to dump a bucket of saltwater on it every day. I'm going to have mine stripped and leave them way for awhile to see how it goes.
what the pros do
when we are getting the boats ready for their new owners, the cockpit teak is 1. washed with a good boat soap and stiff bristle brush. 2. allowed to dry 3. cleaned with nu-teak teak cleaner. This is a chemical cleaning agent which will remove stains, the "gray discoloration" which some people do not like (although I do not mind that on my teak) use gloves and a short bristle brush. Scrub the teak lengthwise (with the grain) Rinse well with a hose and allow to dry completely. 4. apply a very light coat of teak oil with a clean rag (commercial paper towles (the blue ones) work well) be careful not to get the oil on the gel coat as it will stain. wipe up any oopses....in the sun allow to dry for at least a day. 5. apply a second thin coat. 6. allow to dry another day before stepping on it. DONE. Teak will look like new. Teak that has raised grains need to be lightly sanded, to bring the grain back down, however the teak on the cockpit seats of Beneteau's are VERY Thin and will not stand up to repeated or hard sanding
when we are getting the boats ready for their new owners, the cockpit teak is 1. washed with a good boat soap and stiff bristle brush. 2. allowed to dry 3. cleaned with nu-teak teak cleaner. This is a chemical cleaning agent which will remove stains, the "gray discoloration" which some people do not like (although I do not mind that on my teak) use gloves and a short bristle brush. Scrub the teak lengthwise (with the grain) Rinse well with a hose and allow to dry completely. 4. apply a very light coat of teak oil with a clean rag (commercial paper towles (the blue ones) work well) be careful not to get the oil on the gel coat as it will stain. wipe up any oopses....in the sun allow to dry for at least a day. 5. apply a second thin coat. 6. allow to dry another day before stepping on it. DONE. Teak will look like new. Teak that has raised grains need to be lightly sanded, to bring the grain back down, however the teak on the cockpit seats of Beneteau's are VERY Thin and will not stand up to repeated or hard sanding
__ever try varnish??
I have an 11.5 with simular teak seats. I also have a 27, Chrysler. This picture is of a 30 year old bow pulpet that I put on the Chrysler. A lot of sanding and 14 coats of varnish. It last about 18 months before recoating. I did the same for my teak seats.
I have an 11.5 with simular teak seats. I also have a 27, Chrysler. This picture is of a 30 year old bow pulpet that I put on the Chrysler. A lot of sanding and 14 coats of varnish. It last about 18 months before recoating. I did the same for my teak seats.
Teak
I like the rich look of dark teak, but have met a lot people who like the weathered look. I had one fellow say to dump salt water on the teak daily to keep the silver look. We used the product below called Teaqua. The teak on our seats was graying, but after using a pressure washer the gray was removed to the original teak. A light sanding with 220 grit and then applied the Teaqua. Don't get too agressive with the power washer though. What I like about the Teaqua is that it is an oil based and won't make the surface slick. It has been on for about a year now and I'll probably put a light coat on this summer. Sail on... Terry
I like the rich look of dark teak, but have met a lot people who like the weathered look. I had one fellow say to dump salt water on the teak daily to keep the silver look. We used the product below called Teaqua. The teak on our seats was graying, but after using a pressure washer the gray was removed to the original teak. A light sanding with 220 grit and then applied the Teaqua. Don't get too agressive with the power washer though. What I like about the Teaqua is that it is an oil based and won't make the surface slick. It has been on for about a year now and I'll probably put a light coat on this summer. Sail on... Terry
Cetol Strip?
My dealer delivered my boat with the teak already finished with Cetol, even though I requested that it be left alone. What does anybody suggest to use as a stipper to remve the Cetol. Seats and afterdeck look terrible after 3 months weather exposure.
My dealer delivered my boat with the teak already finished with Cetol, even though I requested that it be left alone. What does anybody suggest to use as a stipper to remve the Cetol. Seats and afterdeck look terrible after 3 months weather exposure.
Do not use
stiff brushes, power washers or strong chemicals on your teak. It removes the soft wood and leaves the annual rings. In a few years it will be like a washboard with knife edges. This is the reason that teak has traditionally been holy stoned and left to gray. Jim
stiff brushes, power washers or strong chemicals on your teak. It removes the soft wood and leaves the annual rings. In a few years it will be like a washboard with knife edges. This is the reason that teak has traditionally been holy stoned and left to gray. Jim
Power washer
If overdone, you can take the paint off a car with a power washer. With a little common sense it works well on teak as I have been using one for years without trouble. Sail on... Terry
If overdone, you can take the paint off a car with a power washer. With a little common sense it works well on teak as I have been using one for years without trouble. Sail on... Terry
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