refashioning a companionway step for my pre-83

[cdavis0627]

Due to water damage (from above, not below, thankfully), I have a need to replace the squared-off-U-shaped piece of wood that serves as the companionway step. I can't seem to find a bit of advice via the google or this forum from others who have gone before me in this endeavor. Does anyone here have experience with this? I'm wondering specifically what wood species and thickness might be best for this application. Thanks in advance for anything you might offer!

- Christy in Columbus OH on "Central Air"

 

[GorillaToast]

I need to make a new one for mine, as well.

The original looks to be teak veneered marine plywood, which may be hard to find these days. I think any good quality marine ply would work, if stained and sealed really well.

The relief on the underside was done on a shaper table with a template, but I plan to cut a matching piece from 1/4" ply and epoxy it in place.

I've also thought about laying up a fiberglass board, but it might be hard to color-match the cabin liner. My boat is kind of off-white.

I found a source for teak ply, in less than full sheet sizes.
http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/teak_v...k Veneer Plywood 2 Sides - Square Foot Prices

Let us know if you come up with other solutions.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[CaptDon01]

Have you thought about just changing over to plastic? Zero maintenance, and half the price of teak....

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=364&ParentCat=42

Don

 

[Chris Patterson]

Hmmm.

Hey Bill and Christy,

I've been thinking about this most of the morning, (while working on the mast myself): I threw the calipers across the hatch board, and it measures 3/8" of an inch thick.
Not being a carpenter one iota, this does seem to be a relevantly simple job. If you have the remains of the dead, tracing it out would be the thing to do as the layout might be complex for some. Also, a router should be used since none of the interior hatch boards lay flush in the holes, with square corners on the underside. I am loath to debate materials since there are a gazillion arguments on this, just remember to seal it well. Again, that "number" again on sealants: Personal preference of mine is to use West System 105. It is the Word of the Lord (quiet moment here for introspection and contemplation). AND....bear in mind here, you're,(me) are not restoring the U.S.S. Constitution..

 

[GorillaToast]

Christy,

Are you talking about the piece permanately attached to the entryway, or the hatch cover that you step on to get in the cabin?

I was referring to the hatch cover over the battery compartment. Unless you are a skilled woodworker with a table saw, or have a friend who is, making that small piece might be tricky. There's a couple of angles there that would have to be ripped on a table saw. If that's the case, I would opt for buying one from CD. That part is called the Threshold, and both the plastic and teak parts are available on CD.

Btw Christy, where in Columbus do you sail? Hoover, Leatherlips, or Alum Creek? I'm at ACSA.

 

[Chris Patterson]

Ditto on CD. And synthetics. I'd like to eliminate every scrap of wood on, and in the boat. Yucch.
That's why most builders quit building boats out of wood...
Sorry, my one and a half cents worth.

 

[Joetech]

Threshold is a compound cut

I had to replace mine companion way bottom a few years ago. I had some 1" teak. I did an exact copy of the original except to make the part that attaches to the boat a little thicker because the original was very thin in this area and is why it broke. So I did have to trim a bit off the hatch covers. No big deal for me. I have full access to a wood shop. If I can find it and you can download CAD .dwg files I can send you a copy of what I did.
This piece covers the inner liner/deck joint and is a little rough. They didn't spend a lot of time in the factory fine tuning this joint so it's needs some attention so you get a good even seat and the load is evenly distributed and it will take the screws and not wobble about. That's why they break. 200+lbs standing on 1/4 thick teak on a 1/4 thick wavy FG edge and moving will eventual cut through anything.