A while back there was a discussion about reefing with the 216. Jeff provided a photo article but the link is dead. Any suggestions/pictures for setting up a reefing system? thanks
Reefing
- Thread starter Ron Benitez
- Start date
- Status
H216 reefing
Right now I bought a couple large hooks from West Marine and I use these to hook a line to the luff/leech crinkles. The leech hook is attached to the crinkle and the line fed through the cheek block on the boom to a cleat. I leave this line permanently on the boom and just loosen it when I want to put the hook thru the leech crinkle. I have another hook with a short line connecting to a cleat on the mast for the luff crinkle. I lower the main, attach the hooks, secure the lines and I am off and sailing. Unlike Jeff, I do not secure the part of the sail that flops below the crinkles. I just let it hang. Trying to secure this in a strong breeze is not the easiest thing to do. Letting it hang does no damage. If you do want to secure it, do not tie it around the boom as the main is an open foot main. Simply bunch it up and secure it with a line or bungee or whatever to the grommets. I am not satisfied with this system. I plan on going to a single line reefing system as soon as the weather gets warmer so I can set it up in my driveway. Here's my plan: Raise the main and rig a temporary topping lift to hold the boom up. Lower the main until the leech crinkle is touching the boom. Mount an eye hook and a cheek block on either side of the boom a few inched in back of the leech crinkle. I have not finalized my luff crinkle plan but I am going to try attaching a fairlead to the boom at the goose neck on one side, then a cheek block on the mast in front of the fairlead with a cleat on the other side of the mast even with the cheek block. I plan on having a snap shackle permanently on the leech crinkle eye strap. My reefing line will have a spliced loop on one end. To set up the reefing line, thread the loop thru the leech crinkle and attach it to the snap shackle. Thread the other end through the cheek block, fairlead, mast cheek block, luff crinkle to the mast cleat. Leave the line nucleated. To reef, lower the main to a marked spot on the main halyard, pull on the reefing line and cleat it. Viola!
Right now I bought a couple large hooks from West Marine and I use these to hook a line to the luff/leech crinkles. The leech hook is attached to the crinkle and the line fed through the cheek block on the boom to a cleat. I leave this line permanently on the boom and just loosen it when I want to put the hook thru the leech crinkle. I have another hook with a short line connecting to a cleat on the mast for the luff crinkle. I lower the main, attach the hooks, secure the lines and I am off and sailing. Unlike Jeff, I do not secure the part of the sail that flops below the crinkles. I just let it hang. Trying to secure this in a strong breeze is not the easiest thing to do. Letting it hang does no damage. If you do want to secure it, do not tie it around the boom as the main is an open foot main. Simply bunch it up and secure it with a line or bungee or whatever to the grommets. I am not satisfied with this system. I plan on going to a single line reefing system as soon as the weather gets warmer so I can set it up in my driveway. Here's my plan: Raise the main and rig a temporary topping lift to hold the boom up. Lower the main until the leech crinkle is touching the boom. Mount an eye hook and a cheek block on either side of the boom a few inched in back of the leech crinkle. I have not finalized my luff crinkle plan but I am going to try attaching a fairlead to the boom at the goose neck on one side, then a cheek block on the mast in front of the fairlead with a cleat on the other side of the mast even with the cheek block. I plan on having a snap shackle permanently on the leech crinkle eye strap. My reefing line will have a spliced loop on one end. To set up the reefing line, thread the loop thru the leech crinkle and attach it to the snap shackle. Thread the other end through the cheek block, fairlead, mast cheek block, luff crinkle to the mast cleat. Leave the line nucleated. To reef, lower the main to a marked spot on the main halyard, pull on the reefing line and cleat it. Viola!
dead link
I'll look around for those old pictures I took of how I reefed the mainsail and I'll re-post them if I can find them. I'm also interested in finding better ways to reef. My goal is something simple and easy to do when I need it. Reefing is one of the first important skills every sailor must learn...
I'll look around for those old pictures I took of how I reefed the mainsail and I'll re-post them if I can find them. I'm also interested in finding better ways to reef. My goal is something simple and easy to do when I need it. Reefing is one of the first important skills every sailor must learn...
More on Jiffy Reefing
Although I've not modified my 216 yet, but I've owned several boats that incorporated Jiffy reefing. In all of those boats the blue line that is shown here: http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/pix.tpl?folder=73260261527&sku=112968105619327913&fno=17 Is tied off to a husky padeye located on the port side of the boom and a turning block on the port side, each located such that the sail can be pulled down onto the boom while still allowing enough pull toward the stern to keep the sail very flat in really heavy air. Rigged the way the factory has it, it is almost impossible to really flatten out the sail. The blue line then needs to be cleated a foot or so from the boom gooseneck so that it can be easily adjusted at the same time as the yellow line. Having a hook on the boom at the tack end works fine on boats where you can hook the reefing grommet and then have a wench to tighten up the main halyard to stretch the luff tight enough. A better arrangement on smaller boats is to use the yellow line as shown, and then tightening the main halyard as tight as you can, and then, either adding a block or using a rope purchase loop on the yellow line, tighten the luff even tighter. Hope I haven't confused everyone but this is how I have rigged and raced boats in the past.
Although I've not modified my 216 yet, but I've owned several boats that incorporated Jiffy reefing. In all of those boats the blue line that is shown here: http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/pix.tpl?folder=73260261527&sku=112968105619327913&fno=17 Is tied off to a husky padeye located on the port side of the boom and a turning block on the port side, each located such that the sail can be pulled down onto the boom while still allowing enough pull toward the stern to keep the sail very flat in really heavy air. Rigged the way the factory has it, it is almost impossible to really flatten out the sail. The blue line then needs to be cleated a foot or so from the boom gooseneck so that it can be easily adjusted at the same time as the yellow line. Having a hook on the boom at the tack end works fine on boats where you can hook the reefing grommet and then have a wench to tighten up the main halyard to stretch the luff tight enough. A better arrangement on smaller boats is to use the yellow line as shown, and then tightening the main halyard as tight as you can, and then, either adding a block or using a rope purchase loop on the yellow line, tighten the luff even tighter. Hope I haven't confused everyone but this is how I have rigged and raced boats in the past.
Is that 3/16 line?
I ask because that's what i bought to go with the harken single line reefing kit i bought at the same time. Opened it to read; use 5/16 line for the small boat kit. I started a thread, in all sailers, verdict: call harken. Harken tech says 1/4 ought to work. Okay, should i buy 1/4 or is 3/16 good enough for you guys.
I ask because that's what i bought to go with the harken single line reefing kit i bought at the same time. Opened it to read; use 5/16 line for the small boat kit. I started a thread, in all sailers, verdict: call harken. Harken tech says 1/4 ought to work. Okay, should i buy 1/4 or is 3/16 good enough for you guys.
1/4 " would be my choice, assuming the blocks
are of the proper size. 3/16" is 'small' and could be rough on your hands when working it under tension. The price difference is small.
are of the proper size. 3/16" is 'small' and could be rough on your hands when working it under tension. The price difference is small.
pictures....
Now we just need someone from a warm climate to reef their boat using the improved strategy suggested and take some pictures so the rest of us can see how its all set-up... I probably won't engage on any boat projects until it warms up to (at least) the 50's (deg F) or more...
Now we just need someone from a warm climate to reef their boat using the improved strategy suggested and take some pictures so the rest of us can see how its all set-up... I probably won't engage on any boat projects until it warms up to (at least) the 50's (deg F) or more...
One more detail on Reefing
I think this is also very important! Although the 216 is not currently rigged this way, it is imperative that the lines for the Jiffy reefing be cleated off on the same side of the boom that the main halyard is cleated on. Think about it for just a minute. To start to reef the sail, you must first drop the main to a position you hopefully have pre-marked on the main halyard. At this point you have a lot of flopping sail that you would have to contend with trying to get back to the other side of the boat and then getting under it to get at the lines. All reefing lines need to be right there so as soon as that main comes down you can tighten the jiffy reefing lines and get the boat back under control. Be sure that you allow yourself enough distance from the reefing grommet to the boom to allow for adequate luff tensioning. In the heavy air that you will be sailing that required the reefing in the first place, the leading edge of the main should be as tight as you can get it. Don't let the vertical wrinkles bother you, they will blow out with any decent wind at all. Hope this info is helpful until I can get back on the boat with the modifications and some photos.
I think this is also very important! Although the 216 is not currently rigged this way, it is imperative that the lines for the Jiffy reefing be cleated off on the same side of the boom that the main halyard is cleated on. Think about it for just a minute. To start to reef the sail, you must first drop the main to a position you hopefully have pre-marked on the main halyard. At this point you have a lot of flopping sail that you would have to contend with trying to get back to the other side of the boat and then getting under it to get at the lines. All reefing lines need to be right there so as soon as that main comes down you can tighten the jiffy reefing lines and get the boat back under control. Be sure that you allow yourself enough distance from the reefing grommet to the boom to allow for adequate luff tensioning. In the heavy air that you will be sailing that required the reefing in the first place, the leading edge of the main should be as tight as you can get it. Don't let the vertical wrinkles bother you, they will blow out with any decent wind at all. Hope this info is helpful until I can get back on the boat with the modifications and some photos.
Great point
I think i have a cleat on each side, i'll just get used to cleating the halyard on the port side, since i wish i knew everything before doing a mod.
I think i have a cleat on each side, i'll just get used to cleating the halyard on the port side, since i wish i knew everything before doing a mod.
It will only take once!
Dan, I'll bet you will only wind up reefing once in 15-20 with 3-4 foot waves and you'll put them on the same side before you ever have to do it again. Just my 2 cents (mixed with a wee bit of experience.)
Dan, I'll bet you will only wind up reefing once in 15-20 with 3-4 foot waves and you'll put them on the same side before you ever have to do it again. Just my 2 cents (mixed with a wee bit of experience.)
A couple of observations:
As Mr Ernie has already stated, pre-marking your halyard and tensioning it after the reef cringle is secured is VERY important. The pictures posted by Jeff are helpful in demonstrating where the lines run but there are some needed changes to produce the proper affect(no offense, Jeff). Luff tension is necessary to move the draft of the sail forward. "shortened sail" shows a halyard that is far too loose. Likewise, the reef line at the back of the boom needs to draw the clew of the sail all the way down to the boom. "bitter end of boom" shows the clew of the sail flying high and away from the boom. This allows for far too much outhaul which controls the amount of draft in the lower 1/3 of the sail. By moving the ring that carries the bitter end of the reef line forward and just aft of the clew, the outhaul can be tensioned and the sail will remain with the boom. Minimizing draft depowers the sail decreasing heeling and weather helm. It should also be noted the the vang should be tensioned to minimize twist. If the main sheet needs to be dumped in a big puff, the vang will maintain proper twist.
As Mr Ernie has already stated, pre-marking your halyard and tensioning it after the reef cringle is secured is VERY important. The pictures posted by Jeff are helpful in demonstrating where the lines run but there are some needed changes to produce the proper affect(no offense, Jeff). Luff tension is necessary to move the draft of the sail forward. "shortened sail" shows a halyard that is far too loose. Likewise, the reef line at the back of the boom needs to draw the clew of the sail all the way down to the boom. "bitter end of boom" shows the clew of the sail flying high and away from the boom. This allows for far too much outhaul which controls the amount of draft in the lower 1/3 of the sail. By moving the ring that carries the bitter end of the reef line forward and just aft of the clew, the outhaul can be tensioned and the sail will remain with the boom. Minimizing draft depowers the sail decreasing heeling and weather helm. It should also be noted the the vang should be tensioned to minimize twist. If the main sheet needs to be dumped in a big puff, the vang will maintain proper twist.
- Status