I am a new owner of a 326. Want to know a few reefing questions. Today was out in 18 - 24K of wind. Reefed the self furling main into what I would call a two reef point. Did't do anything with the jib. A few questions. Can you put a rail into the water on this boat, if so how far can you heal before a problem? I am new to this self furling stuff - on a furling jib can you furl it and continue to sail? or is that too much presure on the furling medchininsm? If sailing with one sail only, like 25K and above (35-40) Would you use just the main or just the jib? Thanks for the info, I put the rubrail into the water today and the boat felt light and I was worried about a knock down as the wind was gusting. Any info is appreciated. Ed
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Steve
Keep her up...
I have a 320, but with the full batten main. When the wind is over 15 knts and I'm not racing, the reefs go in. Above 20, and we are at the second reef point. Even in racing, I'm not too slow in putting in a reef if the traveler goes all the way out and we are still heeled over. The boat actually handles better and goes faster when the rail is not in the water. As for the roller furling on the jib, it is made to partially furl the sail. I have run with mine shortened when the main is reefed to balance the sail plan. My advice is to keep her on her feet, and don't let the heel go too much. If you have the traveler option, check your speed with her well over and then let her stand up by letting the traveler down. You will pick up speed as she stands, and you will loose a lot of weather helm. It also makes the boat a lot easier to control. Good sailing, Steve
I have a 320, but with the full batten main. When the wind is over 15 knts and I'm not racing, the reefs go in. Above 20, and we are at the second reef point. Even in racing, I'm not too slow in putting in a reef if the traveler goes all the way out and we are still heeled over. The boat actually handles better and goes faster when the rail is not in the water. As for the roller furling on the jib, it is made to partially furl the sail. I have run with mine shortened when the main is reefed to balance the sail plan. My advice is to keep her on her feet, and don't let the heel go too much. If you have the traveler option, check your speed with her well over and then let her stand up by letting the traveler down. You will pick up speed as she stands, and you will loose a lot of weather helm. It also makes the boat a lot easier to control. Good sailing, Steve
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Bruce Grant
I've had mine over......
to the point that the stanchion bases were under water, this happpened during a major race and we got hit with a gust somewhere in the 40's (my guess), I was able to dump the traveler and she stood up and took off. Normally I will reef in the high teens when racing. In higher winds, I will normally sail with a reefed main and full Jib. Hope this helps. Bruce. Neon Moon. (H320)
to the point that the stanchion bases were under water, this happpened during a major race and we got hit with a gust somewhere in the 40's (my guess), I was able to dump the traveler and she stood up and took off. Normally I will reef in the high teens when racing. In higher winds, I will normally sail with a reefed main and full Jib. Hope this helps. Bruce. Neon Moon. (H320)
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Bill O'Donovan
Rule of thumb
You can sail in 15-20 without reefing the main provided you don't use the jib. Or you can reef the main and then use the jib. In any event, there is no benefit to having the rail in the water. Once you pass 15 degrees, you're losing efficiency and speed, not to mention a passenger's lunch.
You can sail in 15-20 without reefing the main provided you don't use the jib. Or you can reef the main and then use the jib. In any event, there is no benefit to having the rail in the water. Once you pass 15 degrees, you're losing efficiency and speed, not to mention a passenger's lunch.
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Paul
Never, Ever...
... let yourself get close to 20 knots apparent with an unreefed main on a 326. Even if you roll up the jib, you'll have so much weather helm on that boat that it will be very difficult to steer. You can forget using the auto-pilot. Follow the earlier posters' advice. Reef when the gusts exceed 15. You have a big main with the largest roach around. It's made for light air, so reef in medium air. You'll go faster, and you'll be able to steer. I like to leave the jib rolled out all the way even after I reef the main, up to a point. It's so small on your B&R rig that it doesn't contribute that much to heeling, and eases weather helm.
... let yourself get close to 20 knots apparent with an unreefed main on a 326. Even if you roll up the jib, you'll have so much weather helm on that boat that it will be very difficult to steer. You can forget using the auto-pilot. Follow the earlier posters' advice. Reef when the gusts exceed 15. You have a big main with the largest roach around. It's made for light air, so reef in medium air. You'll go faster, and you'll be able to steer. I like to leave the jib rolled out all the way even after I reef the main, up to a point. It's so small on your B&R rig that it doesn't contribute that much to heeling, and eases weather helm.
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Terry Cox
THAT'S WHEN THE FUN BEGINS...
Ed, I had a H28 with an inclinometer and the rail would touch the water at about 40 degrees. I've had her over to about 48 degrees, maybe once or twice. I would usually point her tighter to the wind, which would ease the pressure and weather helm. Most racers recommend adjusting trim and the amount of sail to keep her at or below 23 degrees to achieve maximum sailing performance. Above that causes too much resistance, and weatherhelm, thus speed. You can also ease the sheets to reduce heel when the wind pipes up. You should be able to reef your jib. If it is a double line rig, you may have to secure the furling drum to prevent it from unwinding on the sheet. My P42 does that, so I secure the drum to a cleat once I set the reef. Some double line sheets will hold and some do not; age and wear. I have two sails; jib and main. In growing winds I will first reef the main. Then when I'm at the second reef point on the main, I will reef the gib. As the wind worsens I will stow the main and reef the jib so maybe 15 percent is exposed to the wind, mainly for stability and forward movement. Terry
Ed, I had a H28 with an inclinometer and the rail would touch the water at about 40 degrees. I've had her over to about 48 degrees, maybe once or twice. I would usually point her tighter to the wind, which would ease the pressure and weather helm. Most racers recommend adjusting trim and the amount of sail to keep her at or below 23 degrees to achieve maximum sailing performance. Above that causes too much resistance, and weatherhelm, thus speed. You can also ease the sheets to reduce heel when the wind pipes up. You should be able to reef your jib. If it is a double line rig, you may have to secure the furling drum to prevent it from unwinding on the sheet. My P42 does that, so I secure the drum to a cleat once I set the reef. Some double line sheets will hold and some do not; age and wear. I have two sails; jib and main. In growing winds I will first reef the main. Then when I'm at the second reef point on the main, I will reef the gib. As the wind worsens I will stow the main and reef the jib so maybe 15 percent is exposed to the wind, mainly for stability and forward movement. Terry
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Terry Cox
KNOCK DOWNS ARE RARE...
Ed, knock downs are pretty rare unless conditions are just right; wind, waves and being careless. With the amount of ballast carried by your boat, usually the wind will spill out of your sails the further over you go increasingly reducing the chance of a knock down. However, if the boat is way over and a wave catches you on the weather beam, then it may knock you down, but the ballast should right you once the wave has past. Under these conditions you would always have all hatches closed to avoid any water getting below decks. Terry
Ed, knock downs are pretty rare unless conditions are just right; wind, waves and being careless. With the amount of ballast carried by your boat, usually the wind will spill out of your sails the further over you go increasingly reducing the chance of a knock down. However, if the boat is way over and a wave catches you on the weather beam, then it may knock you down, but the ballast should right you once the wave has past. Under these conditions you would always have all hatches closed to avoid any water getting below decks. Terry
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