I must confess that reefing the main is probably my single biggest problem. I have a h40.5 with a factory installed bimini. This bimini is about 10" below the boom when the boom is level or when the mainsail is up. When I reef, either 1st or 2nd, I ease off the main halyard at the same time that I pull in the reefing line. The problem that I have is that the tack cringle comes down to the boom, but I cannot pull the clew cringle down to the boom at the same time. Consequently, the boom droops and hits the top of my bimini. I have tried holding the boom up with the topping lift when I reef, but this doesn't seem to help either. I must be doing something wrong. Can anyone help me?
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try this
Suggest you try letting the main down far enough that you can tighten the tack, while keeping the boom up off the bimini with the topping lift. Then tighten the clew, raise the halyard and loosen the topping lift. Unless the sail is cut so that the boom is lower with the reef pulled in, this process should keep the boom off the bimini.
Suggest you try letting the main down far enough that you can tighten the tack, while keeping the boom up off the bimini with the topping lift. Then tighten the clew, raise the halyard and loosen the topping lift. Unless the sail is cut so that the boom is lower with the reef pulled in, this process should keep the boom off the bimini.
Where is the
If your clew was tight against the boom would the sail than hold the boom high enough to avoid the bimini? If not, I'd say it's the way the sail is cut..... If it would; than where is the bitter end of the reefing line tied? To the leach of the sail or to the boom? Where it's tied can make a big difference on how tight you can get the clew against the boom. Kevin
If your clew was tight against the boom would the sail than hold the boom high enough to avoid the bimini? If not, I'd say it's the way the sail is cut..... If it would; than where is the bitter end of the reefing line tied? To the leach of the sail or to the boom? Where it's tied can make a big difference on how tight you can get the clew against the boom. Kevin
Had the same problem, Rich
Do you have eyes on the mast just below the gooseneck? The reefing lines should go through those, according to a poster on this sight. I re-rove mine through, and when reefed, the loops pull the luff further forward to give a flatter sail and more tension will lift the leech a bit too. I tested it in the slip, and it seemed to make a big difference. The boom did not hit the bimini, but I have not tested it in open ocean conditions yet. If I still have a problem, its in the sail cut, and I will await a new main to correct it. Still happy with the prop? I have to haul this year, so..., well, you know... Rick D.
Do you have eyes on the mast just below the gooseneck? The reefing lines should go through those, according to a poster on this sight. I re-rove mine through, and when reefed, the loops pull the luff further forward to give a flatter sail and more tension will lift the leech a bit too. I tested it in the slip, and it seemed to make a big difference. The boom did not hit the bimini, but I have not tested it in open ocean conditions yet. If I still have a problem, its in the sail cut, and I will await a new main to correct it. Still happy with the prop? I have to haul this year, so..., well, you know... Rick D.
Rick is right
I had the same problem when I failed to lead the reefing lines going up to the luff cringle through the little metal bails on the mast near the gooseneck. The bails are located on the mast on my boat, they may be on the gooseneck or on the boom on other boats. Those metal bails, or eyes, are what stop the luff cringle from dropping below a specific point as you tighten the reef line. That keeps the luff and leech lengths of the reefed sail in the correct proportion. The diagram in my 336 manual shows the line lead through the eye in both the ascending and descending direction. I think this is a mistake, I only lead the ascending line through. It works either way, but leading both through puts excessive pressure on the eye when reefed, in my opinion. Good Luck! Paul sv Escape Artist h336
I had the same problem when I failed to lead the reefing lines going up to the luff cringle through the little metal bails on the mast near the gooseneck. The bails are located on the mast on my boat, they may be on the gooseneck or on the boom on other boats. Those metal bails, or eyes, are what stop the luff cringle from dropping below a specific point as you tighten the reef line. That keeps the luff and leech lengths of the reefed sail in the correct proportion. The diagram in my 336 manual shows the line lead through the eye in both the ascending and descending direction. I think this is a mistake, I only lead the ascending line through. It works either way, but leading both through puts excessive pressure on the eye when reefed, in my opinion. Good Luck! Paul sv Escape Artist h336
Vang
Rich- Good to hear from you-how's the adventure going? I read the attached replies and they know a lot more than I do, but wouldn't a rigid vang solve half the problem (that of boom falling on the bimini)? If you solved the boom problem with a Garhauer you could focus on the sail problem. Just a thought...hi! to Carol.
Rich- Good to hear from you-how's the adventure going? I read the attached replies and they know a lot more than I do, but wouldn't a rigid vang solve half the problem (that of boom falling on the bimini)? If you solved the boom problem with a Garhauer you could focus on the sail problem. Just a thought...hi! to Carol.
Reefing
Rich, My answer is kind of long but you asked. The Hunter X.5 series generally have Isomat spars with their in boom auto-reefing systems. Pull 1 line and it pulls down both the tack and clew reefing points at the same time. A very common problem is not having the reefing lines run through the boom correctly. The line from the line stopper goes to the base of the mast then up to the front of the boom, across a sheave inside the front of the boom and back inside the boom to an internal sliding shuttle block. It goes around the block and back out the front end of the boom. It goes back down to a block (generally double) at the top of the fitting where the vang attaches. It then goes back up the mast through the ring discussed by others and up to the tack reefing pendant on the sail where it is tied off. Confused yet? Only half way there. If you look at the back of the boom you should see a large knot. The other end of that line runs back to that same internal sliding block around and back to the end of the boom. It then runs up through the clew reefing ring and back down to the boom. The line is tied off around the boom. There should be a 1-2 inch slot cut horizontal to the boom at the base of the sail. The line goes through there to make its way around the boom. If there are sliding "D" rings under the boom the line can be tied to one of these but should be positioned under the slot. If you are talking about the first reef point, all lines are to port. But the aft line runs up the port side of the sail and back down the starboard side. The other sheaves, blocks, rings & etc are for the second reefing point which is on the starboard side. Unless you have a solid vang or a topping lift there is no way that you can keep the boom from dropping to your canvas. It is just too heavy to hold up while lowering the halyard and pulling the reefing line. If you have the topping lift tight when you start to reef and the system is correctly configured, this is what will happen. You pull on the reefing line on the cabin top. The first few feet tightens all the lines. When they are fairly snug you should begin to lower the main halyard while you pull the reefing line. I always have to lower the sail a couple of feet then tighten the reefing line. The reefing line will put equal tension on both ends of the sail and it should draw down together. The sliding block starts out at the back end of the boom but is gradually brought forward as you tighten the reefing line. Pulling the block forward is what pulls down the back end of the sail. Eventually the forward knot at the tack pendant will be drawn down snug to the ring. That is as far forward as the sliding block can go. This is important: If the block doesn't reach close to the front end of the boom, the aft line will not be tight and the boom will droop. If this is the case the aft line is too long or at least tied too long. If you do what many do and just tie a big knot in the line after it goes through the clew ring it will be too long. If you bring the line back down to the boom and tie it off around the boom it will probably be the correct length and the boom will stay in place. The length of the aft line is critical to maintaining boom height. If somehow the lines inside the boom were pulled out they will have to be reinserted into the boom and correctly run around the block to work effectively. This would involve taking off the boom cap and setting up the blocks. I can reef the sail within 1 minute and the boom will be at the same level. The system really does work. You can search on isomat for the parts and a basic description. Good luck, hope you figure it out Les s/v Mutual Fun
Rich, My answer is kind of long but you asked. The Hunter X.5 series generally have Isomat spars with their in boom auto-reefing systems. Pull 1 line and it pulls down both the tack and clew reefing points at the same time. A very common problem is not having the reefing lines run through the boom correctly. The line from the line stopper goes to the base of the mast then up to the front of the boom, across a sheave inside the front of the boom and back inside the boom to an internal sliding shuttle block. It goes around the block and back out the front end of the boom. It goes back down to a block (generally double) at the top of the fitting where the vang attaches. It then goes back up the mast through the ring discussed by others and up to the tack reefing pendant on the sail where it is tied off. Confused yet? Only half way there. If you look at the back of the boom you should see a large knot. The other end of that line runs back to that same internal sliding block around and back to the end of the boom. It then runs up through the clew reefing ring and back down to the boom. The line is tied off around the boom. There should be a 1-2 inch slot cut horizontal to the boom at the base of the sail. The line goes through there to make its way around the boom. If there are sliding "D" rings under the boom the line can be tied to one of these but should be positioned under the slot. If you are talking about the first reef point, all lines are to port. But the aft line runs up the port side of the sail and back down the starboard side. The other sheaves, blocks, rings & etc are for the second reefing point which is on the starboard side. Unless you have a solid vang or a topping lift there is no way that you can keep the boom from dropping to your canvas. It is just too heavy to hold up while lowering the halyard and pulling the reefing line. If you have the topping lift tight when you start to reef and the system is correctly configured, this is what will happen. You pull on the reefing line on the cabin top. The first few feet tightens all the lines. When they are fairly snug you should begin to lower the main halyard while you pull the reefing line. I always have to lower the sail a couple of feet then tighten the reefing line. The reefing line will put equal tension on both ends of the sail and it should draw down together. The sliding block starts out at the back end of the boom but is gradually brought forward as you tighten the reefing line. Pulling the block forward is what pulls down the back end of the sail. Eventually the forward knot at the tack pendant will be drawn down snug to the ring. That is as far forward as the sliding block can go. This is important: If the block doesn't reach close to the front end of the boom, the aft line will not be tight and the boom will droop. If this is the case the aft line is too long or at least tied too long. If you do what many do and just tie a big knot in the line after it goes through the clew ring it will be too long. If you bring the line back down to the boom and tie it off around the boom it will probably be the correct length and the boom will stay in place. The length of the aft line is critical to maintaining boom height. If somehow the lines inside the boom were pulled out they will have to be reinserted into the boom and correctly run around the block to work effectively. This would involve taking off the boom cap and setting up the blocks. I can reef the sail within 1 minute and the boom will be at the same level. The system really does work. You can search on isomat for the parts and a basic description. Good luck, hope you figure it out Les s/v Mutual Fun
my reefing works
I have 2001-290 and thats how my reefing system works very easy and fast as described by les anderson, the boom never touches the bimini ever and the reefing line pulls the tack and clew down pretty evenly I've never had a problem. nick
I have 2001-290 and thats how my reefing system works very easy and fast as described by les anderson, the boom never touches the bimini ever and the reefing line pulls the tack and clew down pretty evenly I've never had a problem. nick
Single line reefing on 40.5
Rich, as you know, we have a 97 H40.5 so it should be the same reefing system. We use the stock single line reefing system as described in the Hunter manual for 5 years with great success. It does not have the in boom block system described by Les. For us reefing is easy and quick for several reasons. 1, Dutchman system keeps the sail on the boom, flaked and under control. 2. To keep the boom at the proper level during reefing, we added a Garhauer rigid vang ($250) and we ran the topping lift back to the cockpit so it could easily be tightened and then slackened. 3. We marked the main halyard for both reef points. Do this dockside. 4. We changed the reefing lines to 3/8 inch Spectra-Set II because its stronger, thinner, lighter and ITS MORE SLIPPERY so it runs easier and reefing is quicker so less mainsail flogging. 4. Electric halyard winch helps get the mainsail back up quick again to prevent excess flogging. (We already have too much flogging on board Yaga) Our procedure: At first sign of excessive healing or BEFORE the storm hits, ease the mainsheet. Lower the mainsail until the desired reef mark is 10 inches PAST the stop. I always pull in the excess reefing line(s) while I lower to keep it (them) from falling too loose and possibly jamming or getting caught on something (like around my grandson’s head). Then tension the reef line until you’re happy with the tightness on the clew point of the sail. It doesn’t have to be that tight since raising the halyard will add final tension to it. Then raise the halyard until the mark begins to exit the stop and sheet in. We have never experienced the boom dropping and we use the bimini all the time. We have been in many BAD weather situations and having a good reefing system was critical! Hope this helps. If you want, call me on my cell at 713 775-4424 and I'll call you back since I have free long distance. I enjoy talking sailing anytime. Right now Debbie and I are installing a MasterVolt 4KW genset we bought at the boat show. It is supposed to be ‘Ultra’ quiet. It has been a fun project. No more HOT summer nights in Texas! Rick – We love our Autostream 3-bladed feathering prop. It was a great addition.
Rich, as you know, we have a 97 H40.5 so it should be the same reefing system. We use the stock single line reefing system as described in the Hunter manual for 5 years with great success. It does not have the in boom block system described by Les. For us reefing is easy and quick for several reasons. 1, Dutchman system keeps the sail on the boom, flaked and under control. 2. To keep the boom at the proper level during reefing, we added a Garhauer rigid vang ($250) and we ran the topping lift back to the cockpit so it could easily be tightened and then slackened. 3. We marked the main halyard for both reef points. Do this dockside. 4. We changed the reefing lines to 3/8 inch Spectra-Set II because its stronger, thinner, lighter and ITS MORE SLIPPERY so it runs easier and reefing is quicker so less mainsail flogging. 4. Electric halyard winch helps get the mainsail back up quick again to prevent excess flogging. (We already have too much flogging on board Yaga) Our procedure: At first sign of excessive healing or BEFORE the storm hits, ease the mainsheet. Lower the mainsail until the desired reef mark is 10 inches PAST the stop. I always pull in the excess reefing line(s) while I lower to keep it (them) from falling too loose and possibly jamming or getting caught on something (like around my grandson’s head). Then tension the reef line until you’re happy with the tightness on the clew point of the sail. It doesn’t have to be that tight since raising the halyard will add final tension to it. Then raise the halyard until the mark begins to exit the stop and sheet in. We have never experienced the boom dropping and we use the bimini all the time. We have been in many BAD weather situations and having a good reefing system was critical! Hope this helps. If you want, call me on my cell at 713 775-4424 and I'll call you back since I have free long distance. I enjoy talking sailing anytime. Right now Debbie and I are installing a MasterVolt 4KW genset we bought at the boat show. It is supposed to be ‘Ultra’ quiet. It has been a fun project. No more HOT summer nights in Texas! Rick – We love our Autostream 3-bladed feathering prop. It was a great addition.
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