Reefing the Main - HOW???

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BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
My 9.2A is the aft cockpit configuration of Garylinger's boat the 9.2C. I believe the side exiting outhaul is how the boat came from the factory.

I understand the concern about having the control on the side of the boom, but having to go to the mast to adjust the outhaul is also a safety concern. I have had that arrangement on my last boat and prefer this one.

If I instead ran the forward line aft that would be another story, and would certainly be easy to do if the outhaul line terminated forward anyway.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
That comes back to the question of where the halyard is cleated. Outhaul adjustments are usually accompanied by luff tension adjustments so, if you halyard is on the mast, the outhaul might as well be there too.

I think I only touched my outhaul once last season, not being a racer:)

If he does keep the side outhaul, the outhaul block on the gooseneck would be a better topping lift lead than the unused reefing pendant exit.
 
May 2, 2008
254
S2 9.2C 1980 St. Leonard (Chesapeake Bay), MD
Keep in mind that this is a CENTER COCKPIT boat. My Halyards come out of the mast, thru blocks to the single speed winches and cleats that are to either side of the companionway. It is obvious that over the years/several previous owners (this is a 1980 and I am at least the 4th owner) modifications (good and bad) have been made. My intent is to restore systems to their original configuration, where possible, UNLESS there is a demonstrated advantage to the modification or upgrade....
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Do I ever feel silly. The center cockpit is right there in your picture but it didn't register.

Use that center sheeve for your topping lift.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Me too...he can probaly reach the mast from the companionway!
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,241
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
If I were you, Gary ....

I would configure the lines the way that works best for you , rather than worry too much about how the original layout was. But then you are not me so you can take that with the grain of salt! ;)

Why not use the port sheaves for the reefing line and the center sheaves for the outhaul. If you had a mainsail with two reef points, I would definitely use the outside sheaves for reefing lines and the center sheave for outhaul.

I definitely prefer to have these lines led to a cabin top winch. I added/replaced blocks at the base of the mast, a deck organizer with four sheaves (each side) and four clutches (each side) specifically for the purpose of having these control lines available at the cockpit with the winches. When we first got our boat, the outhaul was led to a cleat just aft of the gooseneck. This was not useful at all and I also think that having the line exit the boom and cleated on the boom would be useless as well. I have to think that the power in your sail would require that you need a winch to flatten the sail if you are sailing upwind in a breeze and needing to flatten it when overpowered.

How is your topping lift configured? It seems that if you had a configuration like mine you could use the sheave on the sbd side to run the line internal to the exit plate and cleat it at the stbd side cleat. I see no reason why a topping lift can't be cleated on the boom since it is only necessary to use it when you are dropping sails. OTOH, I agree with Roger that the slack line hanging below my boom is bothersome and a potential hazard (I hadn't looked at it this way because our conditions are not ever rough).

We don't have winches on our mast (as you can see), so our halyards are run aft to the cockpit. I like this system better. Even though I have to go to the mast to hook the reef tacks, I marked the halyards so that I drop the sails exactly to the point where I can hook the tack with just enough tension that I never have a mishap when going back to the cockpit to tension the halyard again. I've never missed yet so it works for me.

Bob, I have not seen that sketch either. That is probably how the PO's did it on our boat! I think that next year I am going to change the lines so that after passing through the cringle, the reefing line goes down and under the boom before coming up to the cheek block and over to the eyestrap. I'll see if I can pull that cheek block back into its original shape!
 
Last edited:
Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
BTW, a double line reefing system is superior to a single line reefing system IMHO, since it allows you to properly tension both the tack and clew of the reefed sail. This helps insure that the reefed sail will be as flat as possible, reducing its power and the heeling forces exerted by it. For more information on the differences, see the Pineapple Sails website, HERE.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
I see no reason why a topping lift can't be cleated on the boom since it is only necessary to use it when you are dropping sails.
No, no. The topping lift is the key to easy reefing. It should be led back to the cockpit for that reason.

It's also good for the lift to be fairly flexible because it will often look slack on a reach and then be over tight hard on the wind with a lot of sheet tension. My main lift is wire with a block on the end. The rope part is 1/4" dacron 3 strand, that runs along the boom to a cheek block and then down to a block on the vang shackle next to the reef turning blocks. It then goes through a deck organizer and back to the clutches on the cabin top.

I tied a piece of larger line on just aft of the deck organizer so it would be easier on the hands. I also spliced a double piece of 1/8" shock cord into the line about where the vang attaches. This goes forward with a short length of line tied to the gooseneck for adjustment and keeps some tension on the vang to prevent it from slatting about and a bight from drooping down from the boom . Works great.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,241
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I like that suggestion, Roger!

I only have one sheave left on the organizers and clutches and I had figured that I would use it for a cunningham. I have 3 halyards, 2 reefing lines, the outhaul and the vang right now.

It may be better to leave the cunningham control line at the mast and bring the topping to the last clutch position. I could also relocate the bitter end of the spare halyard. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to put at least one winch on my mast as well.
 
Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
One advantage of having a topping lift coming down from the masthead is that it can often be used as an emergency halyard.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Hmmm...this hase been an informative discussion for sure. I never gave thought to the importance of the topping lift during reefing, but I haven't had to reef the sail on my new (to me) boat yet. Currently there is a fixed wire topping lift that runs all the way to the mast. I am not fond of it as it slaps on the sail, gets wrapped around the backstay...you name it. I just haven't taken the time to figure out how best to control it.

I could take a page or two from Roger's book and use shock cord to tame it. I had been thinking about employing some shock cord to tame my lazy jacks too. Speaking of lazy jacks, I currently think I would rely on them during reefing (with my fixed topping lift), rather than the topping lift. Does that make sense?
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Speaking of lazy jacks, I currently think I would rely on them during reefing (with my fixed topping lift), rather than the topping lift. Does that make sense?
No. Their functions are very different. If your Lazy Jacks are tight enough to hold up the boom, they will make reefing a major pain. Don't even try it.

I'm going to start a Lazy Jacks thread because it is a subject in itself and my opinions on them (like most things) are out of the main stream.

You will get along just fine with your standing wire topping lift after the line parts of it are properly rigged and you can adjust the tension when necessary.
 
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