Reefing Madness to Reefing Sadness

[RON20406]

After completely rebuilding the inside of my boom over last Winter, I have discovered all my efforts have only marginally made it easier to shake out a reef. It still takes considerable effort and time in comparison to the simplicity and ease of the external jiffy reefing on my previous boat. In one last effort, I'm going to reduce the diameter of my reefing lines which are currently 3/8" in hopes of lessening friction. Am I wasting my time? How small could I go without losing efficiency. The boat has double spreaders with split backstays and carries 550 sq. ft. of sail with a full roach, fully battened main with battcars. All thoughts would be appreciated. Best, Ron

 

[ifmdalvey]

My Pearson 31 with single line reefing inside the boom is certainly harder to shake out than getting it reefed. I guess i would always want to reef up quickly but there is no rush to shake it out.
I was once told by an old mariner, if you think you need to reef, do it immediately, if you think you need to shake out the reef, have a cigarette first.

 

[obsailor]

I have a similar problem with my C&C 35 that has cockpit led, internal, single line reefing with Harken blocks attached to the main at the tack and clew. I find that I have to go forward to pull the reef lines to the forward end of the boom and then pull out reef line at the aft end to raise the main or shake out a reef. Let us know if reducing reef line size helps.

 

[sinnettc]

If it's any consolation, pulling out the reefs on my Capri 22 with the in-boom reefing is a pain too.

 

[RichH]

Ball bearing spindled blocks are almost required throughout for any reefing system ... and this includes small 'reefing blocks' that are inserted into the reef cringles/grommets themselves.
Its the brass thimble lined 'grommet' at the reef tack and reefing clew that yield the greatest amount of friction in a reefing system.

A solution: Goïot reefing grommet 'blocks' that fit into the inside diameter of the reefing cringle/grommet, and although not ball bearing spindled, will certainly reduce a lot of system friction: http://www.goiot.com/pdf/p48a.pdf You may see these 'rebranded' under other 'distributors' tradenames.

A second solution is not to feed the lines 'through' the cringles but rather have a long hook made up with attached becket block ... only the hook goes through the cringle, the control lines are led to the block and the both 'runs' of line to the cringle are on the same side of the sail. The 'hook' must be well fitted to the cringle so that it doesnt get 'released' by a flogging sail.

;-)

 

[David W]

Those are brilliant!

Ball bearing spindled blocks are almost required throughout for any reefing system ... and this includes small 'reefing blocks' that are inserted into the reef cringles/grommets themselves.
Its the brass thimble lined 'grommet' at the reef tack and reefing clew that yield the greatest amount of friction in a reefing system.

A solution: Goïot reefing grommet 'blocks' that fit into the inside diameter of the reefing cringle/grommet, and although not ball bearing spindled, will certainly reduce a lot of system friction: http://www.goiot.com/pdf/p48a.pdf You may see these 'rebranded' under other 'distributors' tradenames.

A second solution is not to feed the lines 'through' the cringles but rather have a long hook made up with attached becket block ... only the hook goes through the cringle, the control lines are led to the block and the both 'runs' of line to the cringle are on the same side of the sail. The 'hook' must be well fitted to the cringle so that it doesnt get 'released' by a flogging sail.

;-)

I like the Griot cringle blocks. But for simplicity, a bowline on each reef cringle works a charm; less friction and less line = easier reefing and less cost

 

[thinwater]

The blocks seem like a good idea...

... but until then, try going to the mast base and pulling slack through. To reef I drop the main until the new tack cringle is ~ 12 inches above the boom, pull the extra line through the new tack cringle by hand (easy), then winch in the clew. To shake it out I reverse the process. Yes, I have to go the mast, yes, I shouldn't have to do this, but it works quickly and easily every time.

 

[jepomer]

If it's any consolation, pulling out the reefs on my Capri 22 with the in-boom reefing is a pain too.

I modified my Capri 22 reefing using a separate forward line similar to the Cunningham rather than the reefing horns. Since doing that, I can reef and shake out the reef very quickly and do it from the cockpit (I actually stand in the cabin).

 

[RON20406]

Ball bearing spindled blocks are almost required throughout for any reefing system ... and this includes small 'reefing blocks' that are inserted into the reef cringles/grommets themselves.
Its the brass thimble lined 'grommet' at the reef tack and reefing clew that yield the greatest amount of friction in a reefing system.

A solution: Goïot reefing grommet 'blocks' that fit into the inside diameter of the reefing cringle/grommet, and although not ball bearing spindled, will certainly reduce a lot of system friction: http://www.goiot.com/pdf/p48a.pdf You may see these 'rebranded' under other 'distributors' tradenames.

A second solution is not to feed the lines 'through' the cringles but rather have a long hook made up with attached becket block ... only the hook goes through the cringle, the control lines are led to the block and the both 'runs' of line to the cringle are on the same side of the sail. The 'hook' must be well fitted to the cringle so that it doesnt get 'released' by a flogging sail.

;-)

Rich, I went to the link but they didn't have any diagrams only a picture of a mainsail without much detail. I also Googled Goiot but they only showed the cringle attachments. Are you aware of any other place to look so I can visualize the concept? Thanks, Ron

 

[RichH]

Here's a pic of the sheeve loaded cringle/grommet: http://www.nautic-outlet.com/lang-en/rigging-and-protection/706-quick-reef-goiot.html

 

[Joe Mullee]

Ron,

FWIW: just last week I had a problem with the second leech reefing line so I decided to replace it with one of the same diameter. The line that was there was 7/16. When I went to WM the associate was surprised the line was so thick and recommended I go with 5/16. After some discussion and checking to be sure my clutches would work on the smaller diameter line I decided ito try it. I noticed the difference right away. A lot less friction and much easier to take it in and let it out. I plan on changing out the other reefing lines soon.

Good luck,
Joe Mullee

 

[RON20406]

Rich and Joe, thank you for your input. I think I will give it one last try with a smaller diameter reefing line for next year and if that doesn't improve the situation ,I will look into the French system vs. abandoning the internal reefing for jiffy reefing. Thanks, Ron

 

[RichH]

Smaller line diameter and the choice of 'more slippery' rope surface will go a long long way to reduce the friction. I would suggest a 'flexible' rope with a 'hard' finish not a rope that has a 'soft hand'.