Reefing lines on 35.5

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Sep 21, 2006
280
-Hunter 35.5 Washington, NC
I bought my boat this year and love it except that the reefing lines both port and starboard on my 35.5 don't retract all the way back into the cockpit when dropping the main. Even pulling pretty hard they won't come all the way in and I wind up with reefing lines wrapped around the sail on the boom. It now seems that this is a good thing since my neighbor at the dock has the same boat and while raising his main last weekend the reefing lines got stuck somewhere in the boom and he wound up ripping the main. An accomplished sailor at the marina said not even to worry and just wrap the lines around the boom and go below and have a beer. I've actually considered removing the reefing lines altogether since if I need to reef I'm probably gonna be heading for the dock anyway. Does anybody see a problem with that or have any other suggestions.
 
Feb 2, 2006
470
Hunter Legend 35 Kingston
I just wrap them around the sail

I leave my reefing lines alone after dropping the main. They do hang down into the cockpit (especially the 2nd reef), but I just flip them over the boom/sail a few times to get them our of the way. Trying to bring them in has too much friction (through two sail cringles), and that friction also exists when you raise the main next. I do worry that someone who's not paying attention will get a reefing line around the neck when dropping the sail, especially in a big wind. Chris
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Recommend Keep As Is

My vote is with "the accomplished sailor". While it isn't clear if you have (1) "single line" reefing (one line does tack AND clew) or (2) one line that does ONLY the clew (and you go forward and hook the D-ring on the rams horn), what I'd recommend is (2). This uses the least amout of line to reef, has the least friction, and, in my opinion, is actually easier than jiffy reefing. After flaking the main just take the loop of line hanging at the end of the boom and flip it over the boom then put the sail cover on. I don't try to take the slack out because when I go to put the main up there is that additional friction to deal with. Inside the boom is a block on a cable fixed to the inside of the forward end of the boom to run the outhaul, and if you have jiffy reefing there are bullet blocks for each reefing line. Having all this stuff inside the boom can create havoc with twisted lines, etc. Going with one line for the clue reef point and using the D-ring helps to reduce the amount of stuff. I'm not saying this is the best way - only that this is the way I like to do it. "To each his own", as they say. Let's see what others have to say.
 
B

Benny

Hugh, don't retract lines.

One of the main reasons for hard to raise mainsails is the added friction induced by retracted reef lines. Just wrap them around the boom. Every once in a while you should reef the sail and let out the reef to insure those blocks don't freeze up on you. If your friend ripped up his sail because one of the reefing lines got caught, that rag was ready to be thrown out. If he was using a winch to raise the main, I rest my case.
 
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nick cameron

Jiffy Reefing

Glad you have raised this issue Hugh, there has to be scope for invention here. I have problems almost everytime reefing in a blow. The dichotomy is that in trying to design a safe system allowing reefing from the cockpit they have come up with a system which is so messy that invariably you have to get out of the cockpit or go hanging on the end of the boom to sort it out (not good when single handed). The problems with the existing system are: 1. If you come into the berth after being reefed then the friction to raise the main next time out is considerable but the benefit is that you do not have flaying lines 2.If you are at sea and want to reef in a blow (particularly when raising the main for the first time) there is so much flaying line that it invariably snags and by the sheer length of line, take far too long to complete the exercise. 3.Even if you are prepared to put up with the extra friction in raisng the main (and you have to winch it all the way)there is no easy way to get all that slack line back into the line containers after dropping the main. The theoretical solution to my mind, is a system which replicates the simple Rams Horn plus tensioning line from clew, but allows you to do it from the cockpit. This would require some type of arrangment which could (clutch- jammer?) which could hold the reefing ring in the reefing position and be operated from the cockpit. Any clever ideas out there? Please no replies advising in-mast or furling booms or from those who don't fully appreciate the problem faced by single handed sailors.
 

Lyle

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Jun 26, 2004
114
Hunter Passage 42 Pt Roberts, WA
Reefing lines

One thing to check as well is if the 2 sets of blocks are twisted or wrapped together inside the boom (mine were). You can do this easily by pulling them right to the end of the boom. I agree with Alan that replacing the reefing blocks would improve their performance and reduce friction but having said that - I don't normally have a problem retracting the lines after dropping the main and although there is more friction when the sail is raised, it is certainly easily manageable in my opinion. Also there are times when you want to put a reef in when the sail is first raised which is much easier (no flogging lines) if the reefing lines had been previously retracted. And on the West Coast, I have been happy to have that second reef on numerous occasions.
 
Sep 21, 2006
280
-Hunter 35.5 Washington, NC
Thanks for the input

Thanks to all of you for the input. I'm probably just gonna continue to wrap the line around the boom and not worry about it.
 
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nick

I think I've solved it !

I spent all day at the marina doing some Mods. 1.Bought two blocks and two clutches and 16 metres of 10mm none stretch line. 2.Removed the single line from the two luff rings and re-routed them downwards through the bottom blocks on the the mast end of the boom through the two new blocks at the mast base and then back to the clutches. Thus have a simple foot tensioning for each reef. 3.Ran the new line from each of the reef luff rings through the holes in each side of the boom to mast connector and down through the original mast base blocks and back to the new clutches. Thus have a simple luff reef line operable from the cockpit which should be the equivalent of the Rams Horn. 4.Result is a two line system which should avoid the friction problems and allow speedier hassle free reefing. Tomorrow I have to finish fitting the clutches (not easy on the current h33 although there is dedicated space for them). Should be able to test at the weekend and report back sucess or failure at a cost of $Aussie 295.00
 
G

Gene

No problem here

I have no such a problem on my boat, my lines are as shown in the diagram in one of the reply below. When I need to raise the main I pull on both of the reef lines prior to pull the main up, when the main comes down I just pull the reef lines from inside the cockpit with no problem at all. Gene
 
Sep 21, 2006
280
-Hunter 35.5 Washington, NC
Single line system

It's single line reefing system, and by the way with a bad shoulder I almost always use the winch to raise the main. I actually bought a Milwaukee right angle portable 18V drill (same thing as a winch buddy but about $700 cheaper) and can raise the main in nothing flat while being careful that nothing is binding. This is how I became aware of the problem in the first place when the winch tightened up after I'd pulled the reefing lines back into the cockpit following a previous sail. I am gonna take one of the suggestions and put in the first reef this weekend just to be sure everything works. Actually with the weather report I'll probably need the reef.
 
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