Reefing lines missing but unclear how to install them - Precision 23

[flyingwaspsailing]

Ahoy, matey's!

Trying to figure out how to run the lines for my main reef. The boat is a Precision 23 and the mainsail only has one reef point (so far!).

Here are some pics showing the hardware that is on the boom.

You can see I have the eye strap on port side and the cheek block on starboard, then a few of these half/eyes then a cleat on either side of the boom.

I've asked for some feedback from Bill at Precision but haven't heard back from him so wanted to see other's thoughts.

My goal is to be able to reef the main from the cockpit as I'm mostly single handing but have an autohelm so can go to the mast if needed.

Two lines is fine rather than a single line.

I'm open to ideas and adding blocks and hardware as needed to get this working!

 

[Joe]

I set up a "lines led aft" for my two reefs, but went back to the "at the mast" method to keep the clutter down. My mainsail actually came with flying cringles at the reef points and with the addition of two rams horns on either side the gooseneck, it was an easy conversion. I got rid of the cumbersome reef line, reef hook I had used to get over the bunched up main. It meant going to the mast, but I quickly got comfortable with it... especially if you have a crew to steer. I'm mostly single handing though so my excellent tiller pilot keeps the boat steady for the 20-30 seconds I need to go forward to clip in the tack and set the clew line. Or you can always heave to. I"m not discouraging a two line system led aft... some sailors swear by it... especially if they're reefing and unreefing alot during a typical sail. I can see using it if I sailed in more volatile conditions. But... I'm in San Diego... Bland sailing capital personified.

As a visual I found this SBO article from about nine years ago posted by RussC... that shows the set up. Check it out.

 

[shemandr]

I can't get past why the main doesn't fit the boom.
All I can offer is that for that first reef, the eye and cheek block should be located further aft so that the reef line is pulling as much aft as down.
And I'd try to clean up the other lines if only for esthetics.

 

[flyingwaspsailing]

Thanks. I'll take a look.

I think the lens distortion accentuates the slightly short mainsail width ( it's 6" short of spec, unfortunately the way I bought it).

 

[BarryL]

Hello,

I believe the '1/2 eyes' that you describe are for a lazy jack system. If you do some googling you will see that many lazy jack type systems use shock cord. The shock cord gets moved to the mast when the main is down so you don't have to modify the sail cover. It appears that you have two line reefing, with the reefing line at the luff lead to a cleat and the second line at the leech.

Good luck,
Barry

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Although Precision sailboats are no longer being built, one of the owners is still building parts. Call him to see if he can answer your question. he is located in Florida

 

[Foswick]

The good news is, there isn't really a right or wrong way to do this. I have seen some pretty creative solutions and I can't say that any of them was really "wrong". That said, unless you know why you would do it differently, it usually pays to do what others have done. There is nothing Precision-specific about the rig, so best to just look at other boats of similar size, rigging, and purpose. And, a single reefing point is perfectly adequate, especially with a slightly undersized main.

I tend to agree with Andrew that the starboard cheek block seems a bit far forward, though hard to tell for certain from the photo.

In general, I think your setup is almost there on the boom. If you had a mast plate to connect blocks to, that would be really handy since you'll need to redirect several lines aft from the mast if you want to single-hand without going forward. Then, add some clutches and you're set. I don't think you need deck organizers. They might be useful just to enter the clutches at a better angle. I'm not entirely sure I would even bother installing winches on the upper deck - depending on the position and size of the jib winches. (Just remember that, if you decide to use your jib winches, you might need to use the windward winch, and that might not always be possible from a leeward clutch.)

That said, you can definitely single-hand without running all lines to the cockpit. It will certainly make your life easier and it widens your safety margin a good amount. If you don't rig to the cockpit, you just need to be more careful about the conditions you sail in and definitely rig jacklines/tethers.

To that latter point, and for some unsolicited advice, I don't know if you already plan to use a tether, but please don't make the mistake of overoptimism that a LOT of solo sailors make. It isn't that people fall overboard all willy-nilly for no apparent reason. It is that you don't get to choose when this will happen, and it won't be when you are prepared. Around here, a solo MOB is very likely a death sentence, unless you are very close to shore or someone spots you. Untethered on the foredeck, you are just one wave or misstep away from death. If you think of it in rock climbing terms, you wouldn't walk at the edge of cliff without being belayed.

 

[jssailem]

Looking at the images gives me a smile.
Your starting your sailing journey in a simple to sail light weight boat that can give you a lot of pleasure.

I like the advice provided by @Joe regarding his journey in rig design. Sailors have worked their lines at the mast in small boats for eons.

I would keep my rigging light in weight and proportionate to the boat. Small running rigging and blocks.

I noticed the metal clip used for your outhaul. I don’t think I would use a double block to tension the foot of the main. A simple 1/4” line ( similar diameter to the reef line used on the boom cheek block) attached to the sail clew ran through the block at the end of the mast and to the cleat.

The end of boom reef line looks fine. The cheek block is positioned to draw the clew down and to the stern end of the boom. You can run a line up through the tack cringle and down to the goose neck add a cleat and you are ready to reef the main. There is also a reef hook you can install on the goose neck to make the task even easier.

When you reef the sails should not be straining. Reef early and with the sails into the wind and the task is easy. Practice when it is calm to develop your skills.

 

[jssailem]

Having shared my preference, if you want or need to run the reef line to the cockpit here is a link that can help you design a cockpit single reef rig.

Single Line Jiffy Reefing Made Easy

Your ability to reef your mainsail is one of the most important sailing skills that you can learn. Your reefing rigging plays an important part in that. You can do it with just a few short lengths …

stingysailor.com

 

[flyingwaspsailing]

Hey John - thanks so much for all of these thoughts. This and the others gives me confidence to "make it happen". The stingysailor link I had not seen before so thanks for that as well. Will post some photos when I'm done.

 

[flyingwaspsailing]

Hey Foswick - thanks so much for this and the clear eyed reminder of being safe. I have jacklines installed and stay clipped in most of the time but really it should be all the time. I have a life outside of sailing that I'm really keen on keeping! Thanks again for all the helpful advice and guidance. As a newbie it really means a lot.

 

[JBP-PA]

I think the starboard side cheek block is fine, vertically aligned with the reef cringle. I'd change port side to run to the end of the boom, and attached to something stonger than that padeye. Some people tie it around the boom itself.
That way one part pulls down and one part pulls back which tends to position the reef cringle nicely.