Reefing line attachment

Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
I am in the process of replacing my sails and have a question. The main reefing lines are attached to the boat on one end with strap style fairleads with 2 blind rivets (one rivet on each end.) I think these are the original sails since 1989. My question: aren't these fairleads a bit light for this purpose? This main has a 37.75-foot luff and a 12.5-foot boom. How would you secure them?

Ken
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,997
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I assume the fairleads are a the aft end of the boom and the reefing line leads from the eye strap up through a cringe on the sail, then down to a block and forward to a cleat or back to the cockpit.

That's a pretty standard arrangement. The forces are shear forces, that is any force on the rivets will be across the rivets and not pulling the rivets out. I would trust that more than a self-tapping screw. An eye strap that is through bolted would be stronger, but I'm not sure that it is worth the effort.

If the current arrangement has been working for you, then I see no reason to change it, unless there is some evidence that the fitting is failing. The evidence would be loose rivets or evidence of corrosion.
 
Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
If the current arrangement has been working for you, then I see no reason to change it, unless there is some evidence that the fitting is failing. The evidence would be loose rivets or evidence of corrosion.
Thanks for the note. It is as you say in shear. I was just surprised that I hadn't noticed the light-duty looking hardware. It hasn't failed, but then I don't think this boat has been sailed much. The old sails are still serviceable (but getting pretty rough) after 29 years.

Ken
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,519
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Ken, The images of reefing I have viewed on line with loose footed main show the reefing line tied to the end of the boom not to a fairlead then up to the clew.
 
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capta

.
Jun 4, 2009
5,072
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
I believe you are talking about a 30' boat? Is the reefing line size excessively large?
Honestly, I think they'll be fine even in a pretty strong blow. Remember, you have reefed the sail, so the forces are a lot less by what, a third or more?
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,997
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Thanks for the note. It is as you say in shear. I was just surprised that I hadn't noticed the light-duty looking hardware. It hasn't failed, but then I don't think this boat has been sailed much. The old sails are still serviceable (but getting pretty rough) after 29 years.

Ken
If the rivets are aluminum, it might be worth your while to replace them with SS rivets. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about them unless there are signs that the rivets are failing.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,330
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
I have two clew reefs and two cheek blocks on a track on the starboard side of the boom. Each of the cheek blocks has a place to connect the reefing lines, which then go under the boom, up through the reefing cringle and back down to the block and then forward. The pop riveted fitting you describe on our boat is not to hold the line but is used as a fairlead for the line.
Ken, take another look at your cheek block(s) and see if there is a place to connect the line right there.
 
Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
I have two clew reefs and two cheek blocks on a track on the starboard side of the boom. Each of the cheek blocks has a place to connect the reefing lines, which then go under the boom, up through the reefing cringle and back down to the block and then forward. The pop riveted fitting you describe on our boat is not to hold the line but is used as a fairlead for the line.
Ken, take another look at your cheek block(s) and see if there is a place to connect the line right there.
The blocks on our boat are internal to the boom. Just the sheve sticks out. The lines are 1/2 inch (certainly oversized) but easy on the hand. With the new sail, I'm going to a single reef ( never used the second reef).

Ken
 
Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
Ken, The images of reefing I have viewed on line with loose footed main show the reefing line tied to the end of the boom not to a fairlead then up to the clew.
That should work for me now that I've ordered a loose foot sail thanks.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,519
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Will be up to the boat on the 27th FEB. We can make time to check out the reefing lines then if your available.
 
Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
I should be available. My sails won't be in until the 28th at the earliest. Will yours be splashed then?
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,519
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Not likely. Still have work to do as I understand. Now that the temps are in the low 20's and less the opportunity to work the fiberglass is not happening. So thinking Early March.

I did get the new prop delivered.
IMG_3443.JPG
 
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Jan 19, 2010
12,923
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
If the rivets are aluminum, it might be worth your while to replace them with SS rivets. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about them unless there are signs that the rivets are failing.
Hmmmm.... if the mast is aluminum, the rivets should also be aluminum.... I thinks...
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,997
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Hmmmm.... if the mast is aluminum, the rivets should also be aluminum.... I thinks...
Yes, unless you use some insulating stuff, like Tef-Gel. The eye strap is likely stainless steel, so there are dissimilar metals already involved.