Hello Anyone, My boat just came out of a major refit and I added a CDI 6 w/ ball bearings. On our shake down cruise it was blowing 20-25 knots. All I could put out is the 135% and that was WAY too much sail. We reefed the jib and sailed for about an hour. My concern is the apparent stress on the furling line and block and additionally the drum itself. As a rule, I have never had to shorten the jib and just wonder if it's safe to reef in these conditions. It was rough as hell and would have been a bear to get the sail down if the R/F failed. Thanks, Grant
Reefing a CDI roller furling
- Thread starter glidslop
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Reefing Technique
Shouldnt be a problem to sail in those conditions if your rigging is in good shape and the furler was installed properly. To reduce stress and friction in strong conditions, always bear off on a run and get the genoa in the shadow of the main before furling the headsail. Then sheet out until you get a good "bubble" in the headsail luff but not completely flogging. Then it should reef easily with the minimum amount of stress and friction.
Shouldnt be a problem to sail in those conditions if your rigging is in good shape and the furler was installed properly. To reduce stress and friction in strong conditions, always bear off on a run and get the genoa in the shadow of the main before furling the headsail. Then sheet out until you get a good "bubble" in the headsail luff but not completely flogging. Then it should reef easily with the minimum amount of stress and friction.
Reef
It is always safer to reef than it is not to reef. You will be more comfortable and have better control of the boat if you reef. There will be less stress on the rig, fittings and sail if you reef. You don't say what you're sailing, but a 135 at 25 knots is a lot of sail for most boats. I Reef early, reef often, as they say.
It is always safer to reef than it is not to reef. You will be more comfortable and have better control of the boat if you reef. There will be less stress on the rig, fittings and sail if you reef. You don't say what you're sailing, but a 135 at 25 knots is a lot of sail for most boats. I Reef early, reef often, as they say.
May not be the answer to the ?
glid -- Surely good advice to reef early and often. However, in response to your original question, YOU need to find out from the manufacturer of your equipment whether or not it is MADE for either furling only or for both furling and reefing. If it's not made for reefing, then don't, and use a smaller head sail when it's windy.
glid -- Surely good advice to reef early and often. However, in response to your original question, YOU need to find out from the manufacturer of your equipment whether or not it is MADE for either furling only or for both furling and reefing. If it's not made for reefing, then don't, and use a smaller head sail when it's windy.
I used my CDI
to reef. Your boat sounds like it is larger than the one I had the CDI on, but they are meant to be used as furler/reefing devices as far as I know. Call CDI and ask.
to reef. Your boat sounds like it is larger than the one I had the CDI on, but they are meant to be used as furler/reefing devices as far as I know. Call CDI and ask.
Reefing a CDI
Yes, you can reef the CDI. Says so in the manual. Even covered under warranty. One caution. Make sure (as stated in another post) to release tension on the Jib sheet while you reef in. Once you have the proper amount of sail out, then re-tension your sheet. Do it all the time (with a 150!). Happy sailing!
Yes, you can reef the CDI. Says so in the manual. Even covered under warranty. One caution. Make sure (as stated in another post) to release tension on the Jib sheet while you reef in. Once you have the proper amount of sail out, then re-tension your sheet. Do it all the time (with a 150!). Happy sailing!
REEFING STRESSES
How much stress during reefing are we talking about on the furling control line? I am about to install a new Schaefer Snapfurl and run the control line through Spinlock furling line guides attached to stanchions and controlled by a Harken cam cleat. I plan to use 1/4" Marlowbraid. Any thoughts? Thanks, CVP O'Day 23
How much stress during reefing are we talking about on the furling control line? I am about to install a new Schaefer Snapfurl and run the control line through Spinlock furling line guides attached to stanchions and controlled by a Harken cam cleat. I plan to use 1/4" Marlowbraid. Any thoughts? Thanks, CVP O'Day 23
Not to put a damper on your reefing ...
but I was recently on a 43 footer when the furling line snapped ... Just remember if you have taken out the core of the reefing line to make it fit on the drum ... that piece of line is nowhere near as strong as the rest of the line. I seem to remember somewhere someone said that you can use a spare piece of line to sort of "secure" or lock the drum and partially relieve the presure on the furling line. But of course then you have to take that line off manually before you want to furl the jib. Vic Seven
but I was recently on a 43 footer when the furling line snapped ... Just remember if you have taken out the core of the reefing line to make it fit on the drum ... that piece of line is nowhere near as strong as the rest of the line. I seem to remember somewhere someone said that you can use a spare piece of line to sort of "secure" or lock the drum and partially relieve the presure on the furling line. But of course then you have to take that line off manually before you want to furl the jib. Vic Seven
Hi Fastscot
You shouldn't need to winch the line - even in windy conditions, if you are wearing gloves you can exert enough force to furl it. Any more than that, and something is hung up (check for halyard wrap, etc.) If you can do so, tension the headstay before reefing - it will go much easier. You will like the SnapFurl. Be sure to put some blue LocTite on the screws that fasten the stainless feeder piece - if they come loose, it won't float and replacements cost $75. Ask me how I know.
You shouldn't need to winch the line - even in windy conditions, if you are wearing gloves you can exert enough force to furl it. Any more than that, and something is hung up (check for halyard wrap, etc.) If you can do so, tension the headstay before reefing - it will go much easier. You will like the SnapFurl. Be sure to put some blue LocTite on the screws that fasten the stainless feeder piece - if they come loose, it won't float and replacements cost $75. Ask me how I know.
Second guess, first one didn't count
I can imagine even though my Snapfurl is still in the box waiting for my recut 135 to be returned. A bottle/tube of blue Loctite is actually on my list, but I was going to use it for my Windex 15 installation. I will remember it for the Snapfurl. Thanks for the tip. CVP
I can imagine even though my Snapfurl is still in the box waiting for my recut 135 to be returned. A bottle/tube of blue Loctite is actually on my list, but I was going to use it for my Windex 15 installation. I will remember it for the Snapfurl. Thanks for the tip. CVP
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