Reducing sail

[Blueskies]

I have single line reefing setup on our boat, but wonder what technique most would recommend if the wind is really building and they are on a broad reach with large following seas (10+).

I don't know about coming about and possibly putting myself abeam to large steep waves with more sail up than I would like.

Of course, we would prefer to reef early and avoid really rough conditions - but it happens.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[RichH]

Strongtrack !!!

With a StrongTrack luff system you can virtually pull down (or partly pull down for reefing purposes) a mainsail on virtually any point of sail. This system is so frictionless that you will get essentially zero 'binding' or friction in the boltrope groove in the mast. http://www.tidesmarine.com/sail-track.html

If your system is the 'typical' then most times you must come to at least a close reach, with mainsail luffing and in the windshadow of the jib ... and do your reefing from this bearing as to be beyond this angle there will be too much friction on the sail slugs, etc. (and this implies that your mast grove is already 'well lubricated'). Unless you have a frictionless mast track and slides its virtually impossible to 'reef' a mainsail in anything deeper than a close reach, certainly not at any time that the mainsail is also laying across the shrouds.

Single line reefing leaves one with no way to decrease/increase the (reef's) outhaul tension to either flatten (to further depower) or to 'power up' (for 'punching' big waves), etc. and thus reduces the all important shaping/safety aspect of the reefed sails. It does no good 'just to reef' as I prefer to still properly 'shape' (getting the max draft position in the right spot; plus, the 'amount' of draft) the sail(s) to meet the 'needs' of the conditions .... and that usually takes an independent outhaul. Double line reefing IMHO is .... safer because it allows better sail 'adjustment'.

 

[Dennis W.]

Without Comment On The Best System

Given that you have a single line reefing system, the sea is running 10+ ft and the wind is building why not try an old and accepted storm tactic. Trim the head as you bear up to close hauled, and then tack while leaving the jib back winded. Tie the tiller well to leeward or lock the wheel. The boat will settle and float like a duck on a pond with the jib backwinded and the main luffing. Set your reef and then wear around to your original course or double tack back. Learn to heave-to and practice with your boat so that you know what it is going to do.

 

[Blueskies]

good suggestions

RichH - I agree there is a lot of friction in our mast groove/slide system - looks like you need to add some hardware to the mainsail at least for the slides at the ends of the full battens (I have 2 or thre full battens upper portion of the main). So, with a system like the Strongtrack we could drop the main without being dead into the wind?

I also had never thought of the ability to adjust the sail draft being lost with a single line reef setup. I guess I was only thinking that if I am double reefed the winds are high and I want to flatten the sail as much as possible. but, as you point out even with reduced sail area in some conditions you still want power.

DennisW - I need to practice heaving to in rougher conditions. I have tried this manuver - but only in mild conditions.

On this day I didn't have a jib out, just a single reefed main. I had a preventer set and my first mate hanging onto the companionway afraid we were going to be knocked down. If I had tried to tack, I would have been unable to ease off on the preventer and handle the main sheet while steering the boat and once into the wind it would have been a very rough ride. I certainly did not feel fully in control of the situation.

In higher wind speeds is it best to run under main only, jib only? I thought with a Hunter fractional rigged setup the boat was better balanced with reduced main only.

You both appear to have a great deal of sailing knowledge and experience. I will have to see what the cost of the Strongtrack would be and practice heaving too and shortening sail under rougher conditions.

 

[RichH]

I wouldnt run out and buy a StrongTrack

as this would be the 'zenith' of a slab reefing system. The dousing of a mainsail into a deep reef can create a lot of friction; a fractional rig can due to its larger relative area - hence relative windloading, can have even more friction generated. I guess what Im 'aiming at' is you have to consider this 'frictional aspect' as one of the chief 'oppositions' in deep reefing. Being sure that the track and slugs are scrupulously clean and *well* lubricated, ball bearing sheeves and blocks etc. would be one of the first targets in building a 'foolproof' system.

Heaving-to on jib/genoa alone on a (radical) fractional boat is nigh-on impossible- IMHO
On my 'radical' fractional, I usually have to first drop the jib, then suffer through the reefing process while the boat is 'rolling and bucking'; no problem on my masthead boat with overlapping, etc. jib.
A good reefing set-up - lines/halyards, etc. led to the cockpit, all the lines 'pre-marked', bombproof clutches, a 'lazy-jack' system, etc. .... can result in the total reefing process (and including being 'well practiced') being done in about 15 seconds flat. Deep reefing a radical fractional leaves the boat quite vulnerable during the reefing; so, 'anything' that you can do to *speed the process* and reduce the friction will be of remarkable benefit .... for SAFETY.

I think that having a mainsail that one can get up down with *minimum effort* (except for its weight) should be your primary goal in setting up reefing. You should be able to get the mainsail 'up' to its 'non-preloaded' luff length by 'hands' alone, only using the halyard winch to adjust the 'final strain' (luff final pre-load and outhaul - all pre-marked on the lines).

 

[JC2]

Depowering in gnarly weather

I recently mentioned single-line reefing to a veteran at the club and recited my oft-repeated admonition: 'If you can't slab-reef in sixty seconds, practice till you can.'

He said, 'Forty-five. Or thirty.'

I said, 'Right.'

If the weather is building that badly you should have already reefed it. To the alert skipper, the moment the idea of 'reefing' comes into your head is the moment to do it. Delay in reducing sail is never good, even sometimes in a race.

That does not help you if you're already too late.

Bringing the boat around and backwinding the jib ('heaving to') is a skill too long forgot by too many modern people. In days before TowBoat US, cell phones, and the cast-iron breeze it was essential. I think everyone should practice this. I am anxious to try it on my boat but I will need to get well out of the river first. I'll let you know how it goes.

You can still slab/jiffy-reef with the sail on the wind. Just be careful not to step too far forward under the boom and lose your footing (been there, done that). It could be the last thing you ever do on the boat.

Be sure the boat is not in danger of jibing or broaching if the preventer is set. It could the last thing the boom ever does on your boat.

Grabbing fistfuls of angry wet sail is not fun on this point of wind either. The StrongTrack is great, but expensive... and there could be times when you do NOT want the whole thing to come clattering down just because you slacked the halyard. I haven't furled one of these under way before.

You can also depower for short periods, such as to get yourself into a position to come into the wind to reef, by letting the sheet way out so that the boom rises. The boat will plow, heel less, and slow down. A preventer or vang won't let it depower. A little loud luffing won't hurt anything for a short period. Be sure to steer attentively however or you will have a crashing catastrophe.

My boat is set up with single-line reefing led aft to the hatch and a sliding gooseneck. When reefing, slack the halyard, bring the sail down, cinch off the excess, and then draw the gooseneck down instead of pulling the halyard up. This further lowers the center of effort, reduces heel and motion, and gives you a sense of control. I have always been adamant against fixed goosenecks on small boats.

You can adjust draft by applying supplementary lines through your reef cringles (especially when like me you have only one set of reefing points) and drawing them aft to rearrange the sail. Also, properly-placed cheek blocks can alleviate much of this issue.

I believe in higher winds it is best to run with a small inner jib and reefed main. One sail alone invariably leads to steering issues, especially a semi-rolled-up genoa. I have a Tuff Luff which, while not roller furling, allows me to actually change sails. No true roller-furler should be without this feature.

When conditions are really, really, bad, you're not concerned with sailing as much as survival and the boat goes to real storm canvas. A strong trysail, mounted kind of low on the mast, will knock the boat over and give you time to breathe (and eat). I think it should NOT be sheeted to the boom, but to the deck or rail.

JC2